brakes and rotors...

[RedZMonte]

any recommendations? i looked a Tire rack and also EBC and ebay. need something to stop my car. W/ the turbo it gets up and going quick now i need to slow down quick. i like slotted because they stay cooler and won't warp (as much). I hear allot that corss-drilled rotors crack, anyone have any 1st hand experience with slotted vs. drilled? Also what pads are everyone running and what do you think of them?

Anyone tried the Ebay slotted/drilled rotors and pads?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Monte-Carlo-95-05-F-R-Drill-Slot-BRAKE-ROTORS-PAD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ012QQitemZ220132768524QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY-MONTE-CARLO-95-99-D-S-BRAKE-ROTORS-PADS-F-R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ016QQitemZ260141909569QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

S

[1988GTU]

In my opinion cross drilled rotors are for mainly for weight reduction reasons. I'd go with EBC green stuff brake pads and some decent slotted rotors for the front. The back only does 20% or less stopping power so anything OEM is far more than enough for the rears.



.02

[OldSkoolGP]

I'm using ATC slotted rotors front and rear on my car, and Hawk pads on the front. The stopping power is tremendous. You should only use rotors that are cross drilled for everyday driving situations. Reason being if you use your brakes hard like when racing, they get hot quicker because there is less mass and they can crack. For racing purposes, slotted is all you should ever need.

[pwmin]

im going to try ebc red stuff pads and ebc rotors (dimpled and slotted, some sort of black coating)

[d.o.h.c]

It all depends on the shit you buy. The ebay companies buy wearever rotors and just drill them out for all I know. But if you buy shit then you get shit. brakes are something that you dont go cheap on. I bought brembo drilled rotors for my dads expedition and cost aroun $400 for the rotors, no pads. They have never warped or cracked and have around 50000 miles on them. I just bought powerstop for the lumina with hawk pads. THe whole setup with rotors, pads and lines will cost me around $700. But I bet they wont crack. I could have done the same setup from e-bay for half the price but then I would have had to replace them in a year. The difference between drilled and slotted. Drilled is good because the water goes right through them, lighter weight but the bad is if you buy junk they will crack. Slotted, they are good for claning the pads. Basically they cool better than stock and keep the pads fresh. Drilled slotted is a NO,NO. My pheloshy is, if you dont see on a oem car dont do it. I have never seen drilled slotted on a factory or a production car, only slotted and drilled, but its always one or the other. Hope this helps.

[RedZMonte]

The Ebc rotors are dimpled and slotted. so they are not going to crack like the drilled ones according to ebc. the red stuff pads are heavier duty and are designed for "suped up cars" according to ebc. I think im leaning toward the EBC rotors/red stuff.

Do you mean the "ATE" rotors? these are some different looking slots.


S

[d.o.h.c]

That shit dont work.

[SappySE107]

Have you used them?

[timg]

I've been running PowerSlot rotors and Hawk HPS pads.

Tim

[d.o.h.c]

How are the Hawks on the w's. I have them on my dads truck and they still work good with milage on them. I am going to order my front shit today. $300 down the drain.

[OldSkoolGP]

I did mean ATEs actually. My bad. I love them, they have little fade and the Hawk pads are holding up very well in my car. Get a little heat in them and you can generate some mega stopping power.