Turbo Help asap

[d.o.h.c]

A). I can not do that
B). I am going to run the wires and make them look clean and stock. its just i was saying why i took them out last time.

[timg]

I was on a stock tune with a piggyback system.

On my S2000, I'm doing a fuel cut as well. The ignition cut means raw fuel gets dumped into the exhaust and results in LOTS of popping and flames out the exhaust. It's not exactly street friendly that way.

Tim

[ForcedFirebird]

I was on a stock tune with a piggyback system.

On my S2000, I'm doing a fuel cut as well. The ignition cut means raw fuel gets dumped into the exhaust and results in LOTS of popping and flames out the exhaust. It's not exactly street friendly that way.

Tim

I would rather a flame come out, than detonation. The second time the needle bounced off the limiter was when it exploded. Although, with the piggypack, you could still have control over how much fuel is cut. Theoretically if you cut it by 50%, and mine was cut 100%, you would have much less harmful results.

How would it work if fuel and spark were cut simultaniously?

[d.o.h.c]

well I wont be hitting the rev liminter any time soon, so that wont be a problem. I am going to go down to check on my car and will shoot some pics up if there is an progress. Cant wait till I can finally drive my car and smoke the shit out of some dumb ass punks. Ahh, have to wait a little like 1000 miles to do that but still it will be fun to toy with them. Thanks for all the great imputs you guys have, it sure does help having a bunch of smart turbo guyes on the forum. I hope to go to a show where I can meet all of you and let you drive my car, na just shittin ya. Thanks again guys.

[ForcedFirebird]

well I wont be hitting the rev liminter any time soon, so that wont be a problem. I am going to go down to check on my car and will shoot some pics up if there is an progress. Cant wait till I can finally drive my car and smoke the shit out of some dumb ass punks. Ahh, have to wait a little like 1000 miles to do that but still it will be fun to toy with them. Thanks for all the great imputs you guys have, it sure does help having a bunch of smart turbo guyes on the forum. I hope to go to a show where I can meet all of you and let you drive my car, na just shittin ya. Thanks again guys.

I hear 'ya. I'm shooting for 500hp in the next build. Gonna take a few mos, since I will be using 1/2" fuel lines and an aeromotive A100 fuel pump (support up to 800hp), amoung a few other "gadgets"

[d.o.h.c]

Nice, pics are a must

[d.o.h.c]

Need some help turbo guys. Here is my situation. I brought my car up to the turbo shop and they made all my intercooler pipes. But my car is still doing this thing where, when I give it gas and zero out the vacuum gauge it wont make boost. It seems like it is venting the boost. Here is what I have as far as the vacuum lines go. The ports on the valve covers are going to the filter side of the turbo and the PCV valve is also there. Is this correct? Next I have the wastegate and being run to the charged side of the turbo. The BOV and the FMU are being run to the intake manifold. My only other thoughts is that the BOV is releasing early but I dont think it is. The car idles pretty good and driving around is ok. Its just when I give it gas it just struggles and surges. I dont want to push the car anymore before I know whats wrong. PLEASE HELP .

[d.o.h.c]

When I do give it gas the A/F gauge does read rich.

[d.o.h.c]

OK the vacuum ball should be run to what. Right now I have the ball hooked up to a T. one goes to the vacuum gauge and the other I think the check valve. But I am not sure.

[1988GTU]

Ok I did a little searching to help put my picture in mind in text form better... I guess that is why I am not a teacher

Someone wrote:
"In order to run a manual boost controller we need to tee off of the vacuum line which runs from the turbo compressor housing to the compressor reference port. The manual boost controller works using a spring and check ball, by screwing the adjusting screw into the boost controller you put more pressure on the spring which reduces the amount of airflow through the boost controller and into the boost controller port. Less airflow means less pressure will be assisting the spring to keep the wastegate plunger shut. The pressure in the vacuum line going to the compressor reference port will equal the pressure the turbo is producing. A boost controller will allow you to direct some of that pressure to the top of the wastegate diaphragm creating two opposable forces. By adjusting the spring pressure of the boost controller you can vary the amount of boost that the turbo will make before opening the wastegate's plunger. If you want to run a higher boost level than the wastegate spring allows you will need a boost controller.


The manual boost controller is a very simple device that can help you make more power from your turbo setup. Here are three additional things to keep in mind about wastegates:

Without a line running from the compressor housing to the wastegate's compressor reference port boost pressures will keep increasing forever. This will quickly destroy your engine!

Run a wastegate as close to the desired boost pressure as possible this will help the boost controller handle the pressure better.
"

[d.o.h.c]

Ahh, I thought you had the answer. Oh well. Anyways some one please tell me where the stock vacuum ball hooks up to and what it does. I think that might be the problem. Anyways,let me know if you know

[d.o.h.c]

Ok, how about this therory. I have a .25 bar spring in the wastegate and I am making around 1-2 psi of boost. So on a 3.5 psi spring would it be normal to get only 1-2 pis. I think what mught be happening is that the wastegate is opening to soon. Thus,causing my car to struggle or choke. Would the car choke if this were true? I dont know what else I can do but I need to fix it.

[d.o.h.c]

Can i disconnect the wastegate line to see if this is the problem and at 5psi, if it gets there stop?

[1988GTU]

What ratio is your rrfpr? 12:1, 9:1, 1:1? That might be the reason why it bogs, too much fuel. If you disconnect the vac line to the wastegate you will be risking your engine with very high PSI. I would not suggest doing that. What I would suggest is to directly connect the wastegate vac line to the compressor charge side and if you say the wastegate spring is 3.5lbs, then 3.5lbs of boost should be seen IF everything is correctly assembled.

[d.o.h.c]

Well it boggs only at a very low speed. The FMU is a 12:1. Yeah my wastegate line is hooked up directly to the charge pipe.