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  • #31
    OK guyes I think the sender on the oil pressure gauge is shot. Because I put another gauge on and I get awsome oil pressure. The only thing I am worried about is the turbo. I guess it take a minute or two to get oil to the turbo. anywyas I got a lean reading on the a/f gauge and the fuel psi dropes when right after the ignition is on. So I Think I have leaking injectors. I am just going to pick some up at the the yard.


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    • #32
      I tee'd my feed line to the oil pressure sending unit which is right by the oil filter adapter. did you pull the oil line and see if you get oil. Does your gauge cluster have a oil pressure guage on your dash or a volt guage? if you have a oil guage does it read pressure?

      didn't you have a company build it all for you? did you talk to them?

      S
      Shane "RedZMonte"
      2004 Corvette Z06 Commemorative Edition -VIRGIN
      1995 Monte Carlo Z34 14.38@101mph, 331hp/355tq
      -Turbonetics T04E Super 60 Turbo, 2.5" Borla Catback, OBDII, 42.5# Injectors
      2004 Subaru WRX STI -Lightly Modded (SOLD)
      1994 Lumina Z34 -VIRGIN (SOLD)
      1992 Lumina Z34-VIRGIN (RIP)
      1992 L67 Lumina Z34 (SOLD)
      1990 Turbo Grand Prix (SOLD)

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      • #33
        Ok heres the update. I got the car torun a little better. But my question is. When I rev the motor to 2,000 rpm I get no boost. Its like the turbo is not even there. Also when I touch the gas the rpm stays at around 2,000 rpm and then it comes down all the sudden after a couple minutes. Now could this be just the vacuum lines i have hooked up wrong. I basically did this for the vacuum lines. I dilled a hole in the plenum and ran a hose from that to the canister purge where it used to go into the manifold. Then branched off of that into a vacuum supply manifold and ran the BOV, W/G, and Fmu to. Would this cause a problem. Also I am getting around 20 for vacuum and its steady. PLease help


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        • #34
          Take it for a drive, you will see boost. At an idle, in park, I can only get maybe 1psi at 5500rpm. When there is no load on the engine, there will hardly be boost (mainly in the -30psig to 0psig range).

          I don't know what ECM you have, but DO NOT HIT THE REV LIMITER! If you hit the rev limiter, most GM ECM's pull fuel, and you will detonate.
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          • #35
            OK it sounds like I have a little bit of an exhaust leak, but not sure. But I am worried about the turbo shaft having play. I mean I can move it up and down a bit. And this is a brand new turbo. Is that normal. I mean How much play until I have to worrie about it?


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            • #36
              One more thing. My a/f gauge was all over the place. What should the gauge read and at what rpm. I mean my reading was lean/rich,lean/rich at idle


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              • #37
                This is what my gauge does. If you scoll down the page


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                • #38
                  Turbo can have some side play (.010"-.020"), but should have no, or very little end play.

                  The AFR guage will do that if reading in real time. If it is a NB AFRG, then it will definately look like. If you have a WB, you can program it to read every .x (I like .3) seconds, and it's a bit more stable.

                  Exhaust leaks between the manifold and turbo will also cause a slow spool, I have experienced this when making a new y-pipe and tried to weld it on the car. Had I known it was going to come off as easy as it did, I would have welded it on the bench.
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                  • #39
                    thanks for the response this late at night. I checked and it had no play in and out, but deffinitly side to side. It is a brand new turbo so if there is a problem, when I go to the turbo shop next week they will have it rebuilt for me. I am not worried about it though. As far as gauge readings. It does go crazy but I have not driven it on the road. I am taking it out in the morning. My only concern is that timG told me to let off the gas if it reads lean, but if the gauge does what it did at idle then what do I do becuase it was all over the place. Also Should my idel even out after I take it for a drive. Because it idels at 2000 rpm but will come down eventualy. Just wondering what the drive will cure tomorrow.


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                    • #40
                      I'm unsure of the rest of your set-up, but the guage will even out a lot more when driving. The ECM is reading the o2 several times a second and that's whwt you are seeing on the guage. Are you using a stock tune, nbo2 sensor, oversized injectors, etc?
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                      • #41
                        Right now it stock as far as tune. It is a brand new motor, with light weight lifters, ported intake manifold and heads,ect. But I see what you are saying, I do have a walbro fuel pump and a fmu on stock injectors. I am going to button up the motor and take it for a drive


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                        • #42
                          OK I just took the car for a ride. RIght when I was about to make boost the hose poped off. I will reattach it. But over all it ran ok. THe only things I am concerend with are, when I start the car up it seems like it take 20 seconds to come down and idel. The other is it sounds like a exhaust leak, but I did do a ghetto rig on the exhaust in the back and that is what I am thinking it is. Also the air to fuel gauge was reading a little lean at around 1200 rpm but once the hose poped off it was reading a little better. I think I just have to work out the problems and it will run awsome. I will let you know what happens when reattach the hose. Thanks


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                          • #43
                            What hose poped off? If it's the cold side connectors (I immagine that's why you went rich, no boost), then put a couple of tack welds around the edges of the pipes. If you don't have a welder, just make a couple of 1" slots about 1/2" from the end of the pipe, so the connectors have something to bite. If it's at the TB, then just use a grinder to make a couple of notches, theat way, when you tighten the calmps, the silicone will "mush" into the slots.

                            Lean at 1200RPM is not good, especially since that AFR guage is reading stoich at 14.7. You need to be running rich at idle, if it's an AutoMeter, then the second/third to last light on the rich side. You shouldn't be lean at all while under boost, ideally you should be at the first or second light (rich side) at WOT. When you gat a WB, get idle to be about 10.5, and 12.5 WOT.

                            If you have an adjustable FPR, bump up the pressure until it almost wants to stall, then back it up a bit.

                            What ratio FMU are you using? You need a 6:1 or 8:1, and wouldn't suggest going over 7PSIG with an FMU.
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                            • #44
                              The hose that poped off is the hose attching the turbo to the bov. I dont have the IC hooked up yet. I am running a 12.1 fmu. This is what I will do. I will re attach the hose and bring it for a ride. It is an autometer gauge. If i do not get a good reading then I will look for an exhaust leak. But if i remember correctly the reading was all over the place. auggh, I will fix this connection and check the bakc for any other problems. I will shoot up some pics tonight if I can find the problem. Any one have a number I can call to help me out.


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                              • #45
                                Your BOV (top valve) should be hooked to your intake plenum, the wastegate (bottom valve) should be hooked to the turbo, keep both lines as shot as possible (espacially the WG).
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