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AAAAAAAH! Phantom stalling again!

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  • #1

    AAAAAAAH! Phantom stalling again!

    Well, for some reason, my 93 GTP is stalling again... Some facts: it only happens at low speed and low idle. For instance, when I'm pulling into a driveway/parking lot, it stalls after making it into the lot. And this may (or may not) be a seperate problem, but it *sometimes* stalls when slowing down from >50mph. I was kinda thinking that could be a seperate problem with the torque converter lockup. Also, I've got a code 32 that comes and goes, but only after it gets warm and is driven for a long time. Replaced the EGR and cleaned the passages to no avail, so I think it might be another sensor that detects the EGR's opening. That could be related to my stalling problem. As well, it has a "random miss" at idle. I just don't even know where to start Ido have ALDL software
    Okay now, that's enough of that.
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  • #2
    With all that you said, check your EGR harness first, if bad check/replace the MAP sensor. The MAP sensor does survey EGR operation via induced vaccum signal change by the operation of the EGR. A tune up is a good idea after, get some quality wires.
    Lorenzo
    '11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
    '92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"

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    • #3
      Most 3.4s do it, you are not alone. I replaced my IAC valve, and it no longer stalls, but will still dip low every now and then. I'd suggest change your IAC, couldn't hurt, might help

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      • #4
        What are some normal readings for those using FreeScan? I may be getting weird numbers and not even know it..... Idle seems to be ~875rpm, *requested* idle seems to be 800rpm, MAP is ~.3-.4 Bar, O2 ~.450........
        Okay now, that's enough of that.

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        • #5
          I just bought a connector for my EGR, and I'm going to be testing that tonight to check RPM rise when open, just to make sure. I also am going to check the vacuum brake booster, make sure it's not leaking
          Okay now, that's enough of that.

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          • #6
            GOOD NEWS! I think I fixed the Code 32 problem! And possibly the stalling! I found several plug wires with gouges and burns on them, and one wasn't seating properly... I replaced that, and no more random miss at idle, and I haven't been able to get it to set a 32. Usually it shows up after a 4 mile drive, but so far so good! If this is the case, wierd that spark plug wires could cause an EGR code.........
            Okay now, that's enough of that.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Aaron
              Most 3.4s do it, you are not alone. I replaced my IAC valve, and it no longer stalls, but will still dip low every now and then. I'd suggest change your IAC, couldn't hurt, might help
              For those of us not blessed with living at home and don't have money to throw at the car all the time usually clean the pintle, and spring on the IAC with carb cleaner, then clean the bore the pintle seats in. Just make sure the O-ring is still around it when putting it back in to keep a good seal.
              -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
              91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
              92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
              94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
              Originally posted by Jay Leno
              Tires are cheap clutches...

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              • #8
                Well... I think the stalling got worse It just stalled going 30mph down the street. No codes, just shut off and gave me the "check gauges/ses" lights. Always restarts immediately. Any ideas now?
                Okay now, that's enough of that.

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                • #9
                  Well the SES ligth will always be on when the engine is off but the ignition is on, that's how it works.

                  My plug wires are brand new, so that can't be it.

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                  • #10
                    Hey Aaron - do you have a vacuum gauge by chance? I'm curious as to what your idle vacuum is at. Or else can you check your map voltage at idle?
                    Okay now, that's enough of that.

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                    • #11
                      If you ask me your ECU is fucked, honestly what else will shut a car of when you are cruising down the road. One question though, when your car stalls do you turn the ignition off before you restart or do you just crank it over?

                      Lyle

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                      • #12
                        I just shift into neutral, and crank it over.
                        Okay now, that's enough of that.

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                        • #13
                          More facts from ALDL: (some of this doesn't mean anything to me, so maybe it will to you) integrator: ~128, rich/lean ~200 (and climbing), spark advance, 49.4, desired idle ~700, actual ~800rpm, IAC *GOES TO ZERO* after being idling a while. Does this suggest a vacuum leak? MAP .38-.43 (which if I calculate right, = 11.4-12.9" Hg, while my mechanical gauge shows 13-14"... hmmm), TPS range .50 - 4.43. Any ideas?
                          Okay now, that's enough of that.

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                          • #14
                            I'm not sure but I don't think you IAC should drop to zero. Did you change it. Also when your car stalled were you applying constant power while cruising, or did you let off the gas slightly? One more thing, check all your connections.

                            Lyle

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Lyle's GTP
                              I'm not sure but I don't think you IAC should drop to zero. Did you change it. Also when your car stalled were you applying constant power while cruising, or did you let off the gas slightly? One more thing, check all your connections.
                              Lyle
                              Haven't changed it, and I don't plan on it unless I can say with 90% certainty that is what it is. I don't know the exact point the car stalled (it's so quiet anyways), but it was probably shortly after coming down a slight hill, so I probably let off the gas a little. One more thing to add - the Injector time hovers around 1-2 (ms?) at idle, does that seem out of line?
                              Okay now, that's enough of that.

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