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  • Need help, stumbles,stalls,dies

    Hey guy's really need some help here, first off here is what has been replaced......ICM, coils,plugs,wires,tps,cleaned the IAC,cleaned the EGR,fuel pump,fuel filter,fuel tank, checked the fuel pressure running 45psi, injectors checked out good at 13 ohm, replaced the ECM, checked for vacumm leaks found one fixed it no change, now if I turn up for more rpm I can keep it running, bring it down to idle she will die, if I'm driving down the road at 55/60 mph she'll buck, spitter and sputter and die when slowing down, thought it might be the torque converter lock-up,nope not that, I pull the codes and get a 23, its hard to beleive it would be that, please any help would be awesome...........Thanks Rod

  • #2
    Come on guy's, can't we help out the newbie???

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    • #3
      what is code 23....

      those same symptoms happened to me before the rebuild

      what car, auto?

      Timing, spark, ?
      Stuff that goes to ECM, like cam and crank sensor. really sounds like a vacuum leak...
      Good ground on Alt?

      looks like fuel is OK.

      I replaced egr,O2 and many other sensors, pluss the rebuild probably helped
      search the forum, this topic has come up before.
      95 MC Z34 Black
      Running strong with new engine, transmission, brakes and suspension.

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      • #4
        Code 23, I beleive is the IAT, 93 Z34 auto, I took it to my local shop, and they did there diagnostic, and came up with no issues, costed me $75 for them to tell me nothing, I've replaced a bunch of sensors, I also cleaned and checked the IAC and it operates like it should (cycles in and out) gonna try another one from my 3.1 see what happens, also noticed last night that when the temp gauge gets up about half way thats when the car starts running real crappy, would the CTS mess this up???? Please help.........

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        • #5
          Code 23 : Inlet air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature of -31° F for 10 seconds after the engine has been running for 4 minutes.
          (from TroubleCodes.net)

          Quick check to see if it is bad...

          Use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the sensor and compare it to the table. If the values aren't corresponding (I'd guess you should be around 2k-ohms), then I'd replace it.
          -Brad-
          89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
          sigpic
          Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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          • #6
            Ok, done with the searching, found a ton of stalling issues, now I seen one about the fuel pump, now the car ran fine when I got it, and it has good fuel pressure, I had to replace the fuel tank, so I did the pump also while I was there, now I have been thinking and the problem really started after that (stalling) is it possible the wires are bad or something, like I posted in the 1st post, when it starts to get warm thats when the shit starts, any help would be appreciated...........Rod

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            • #7
              Did you replace the Harness on IN-tank Fuel pump/sending unit?

              Also, Did you check your voltage drop bettween the Relay out front and where the wires go into the sending unit? You should have the same Voltage as up front or as on the battery. If not install a relay as close to the fuel pump as possible running a 14ga. or higher wire straight to your battery and same on the other side of the relay to your 12V feed to the pump and also do the same for the 2 grounds going into the pump and sending unit.

              When I get back home in a week I can tell you what color wires are what unless you have a ohm meter and a test light.

              Regards,
              Dave

              That was one of the problems that causes stalling on a wide range of these cars.
              1991 Grand Prix STE
              3.4 DOHC
              1 of 792 Produced
              Extensive Mods Done

              1991 Lumina Z34
              3.4 DOHC
              Getrag 284 5spd
              1 of 30
              Canadian Z34 Models Made with the Getrag 5spd Wahoooo!

              1980 GMC Sierra Classic C25 With 18,000 ORIGINAL MILES!!!!

              sigpic

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              • #8
                Try This

                try the crank sensor it happened to two of our vehicles a 92 Pontiac Trans Sport with a 3800 and a 92 Buick Century with 3300 the all had the same symptons we replaced them and problem fixed we replaced all the same parts you listed pretty much but then someone told it was the crank sensor because it controls timming in your engines it was so aggervating to be cruisin down the road and blah it died and sometimes they wouldn't start sometimes it would take days for the buick to restart and the van would start back up after the engine would cool down well anyways try that thats my opinion later

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                • #9
                  id say the same. sounds like the crank sensor. but i would also keep the fuel pressure regulator in mind too. they usually cause people to replace the pump in vain.
                  The Official Rotating Mass Nazi

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                  • #10
                    I have already changed the FPR, got good pressure, think I'm going to try the CPS, man hope that works, if not might as well replace the IAC also, tried looking for more vac. leaks everything seems good, really stuck on this replaced a bunch of things and getting nowhere.............Rod

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                    • #11
                      good times

                      you may need to pick up another six pack
                      95 MC Z34 Black
                      Running strong with new engine, transmission, brakes and suspension.

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                      • #12
                        Dude, I really feel a 30 pack coming on just don't know how much more of this car I can take, maybe when the 30 packs done I'll either feel alot better about this car, or be in a distructive mode...........Rod

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