have a similar thread on w-body. its done for, Disco Stud told me about starting it via the switch, that works, but i didn't think of the wheel locking........summary, the car can start w/o the key, but the wheel is locked. i don't have the "special tool" required to remove the tilt and the next housing is all steel and thats where i need to get into. is there a way i can at least diable the wheel lock and get to work(heh, at 5:30....)?
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ignition key cylinder f'ed.
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ignition key cylinder f'ed.
http://www.w-body.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24111
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13* cam timing, p&p\'d lower intake, tapered t.b, FFP chip, FFP mount and the 1st lumina w/HUD!!!Tags: None
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if you are looking to replace the lock cylinder, pull the wheel and trnsignal switch. use a phillips head a press in,turn an remove the silver sprong cover and spring.the get a thin l shaped tool a try to remove the buzzer switch down in the hole where the spring sat. The buzzer switch is white with green and brown wires comming out of it.You don't have to pull it all the way pout but enough to clear the torx screw undernieth.After that get a Torx ONLY screw driver the correct size, and as square on it as you can using the steering tilt to get it right, the remove the screw.Remove the lock cylinder. Clean out the lock cylinder hole in the steering column. Any debris in there may cause damage to the new lock cylinder. And thats how you do it.Lorenzo
'11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
'92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"
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yep, i figured i might as well remove the cap and spring. to my suprise i had a view of the buzzer, and went from there! those 2 tiny screws that the tranny doodad used were a pain to get back in! after reassembly, i did a victory jig and spiked the ol cylinder hard(heh, stubborn bastard still wouldn't give). i got inside and jigged again, spiked into the trash!! i also regained use of my brights! the bar that the black part pushes in was loose, reconnected and yay! that black part might be the reason that i had to hold the arm up and down for the turn signals to show. the lever was loose w/o the bar to give some pressure. the flasher is shot(one thing to another....lol...) so hopefully after a new one, this might confirm that theory.http://www.w-body.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24111
Car Domain site!
13* cam timing, p&p\'d lower intake, tapered t.b, FFP chip, FFP mount and the 1st lumina w/HUD!!!
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