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  • possible electrical problem????

    electrical modifications: conversion to a 5 spd ecm/harness and battery relocation to the trunk.

    car was like this when i bought it.

    symptoms: major symptom is stalling when stopping and clutch is pushed in.
    condition: intermittent
    observation: usually only does this when under electrical load, sometimes when the headlights are on and almost always when i use the turn signal.

    other observations: turning on major electrical devices can cause change in idle but for some reason the signal lights have the most profound effect. also the turn signal drives the speedo crazy but has no visible effect on the HUD speedometer. tach cannot seem to accurately monitor the engine rpm at high rpms and also charge indicator will start to flash.

    other observation: cannot cause stall while in idle and when in gear(clutch pushed in) stall is a little harder to cause when cold.

    voltage: 12.05-12.3 at idle from the cigarette lighter. when all devices are on, lowest observed voltage is 10.03(idle is crappy then) but usually will climb up to about 11.13 with everything on.

    ground resistence: 3.5 ohms from ign module ground to neg battery terminal. i haven't tested the ecm ground resistence yet.

    other observations: the previous owner just hooked the ground to the body in the trunk.

    my list of possible culprits include. alternator, improper grounding, improper integration of different harness(be it ground or power).

    what i have done so far: ran a small guage wire from ign module ground to the negative terminal, no change in condition. also cleaned the ground connection up and replaced the self tapping fastener with a nut and bolt to tighten it up real good.

    any suggestions on things i can do to help asess the problem or any possible culprit suggestions would be appreciated. thanx.
    Last edited by dohcfiend; 07-09-2006, 03:58 PM.
    The Official Rotating Mass Nazi

  • #2
    You have several ground loops going on.

    Steel is very poor at conducting electricity most profound on DC.

    You may need to run double (OO) gauge if over 50 amps like a stereo or 0 gauge is fine for every day stuff), wire from the battery to the altenator power station (That aux power pole) and grounding commons.

    All power options including ignition drives it amps right from the battery, and it the battery is out of loop from the the alt it can cause a discharge situation or discharge loop.
    Last edited by Juglenaut; 07-08-2006, 12:10 AM.
    I am back

    Mechanical/Service Technican

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    • #3
      yeah, I have 0 gauge on my trunk battery.
      I also grounded to the trunk with no problems.
      I also have new wires to the alt and to the starter.
      95 MC Z34 Black
      Running strong with new engine, transmission, brakes and suspension.

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      • #4
        it has the 00 guage from the positive terminal to the power station, then a large guage wire goes from there to the starter, then the alt wires is connected to the same terminal at the starter.

        but i have been contemplating running a ground all the way to the front for a while though.

        additional data: voltage at bettery while car off is 12.42 and volatge when idling is 13.32 with nothing on. all fusable links are fine and the voltage indicates a healthy battery.

        i suppose next on my list would be to find the pin for ecm power and ground and test them as well as test the 2 main power wires integrating the harness to the battery but they appear to be solid.
        Last edited by dohcfiend; 07-09-2006, 03:59 PM.
        The Official Rotating Mass Nazi

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        • #5
          nvm ground redone and needed new plugs thanx for the input though.
          The Official Rotating Mass Nazi

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