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**Zboy** · 06-20-2006, 01:18 AM

Your only supposed to lock one set of flats at a time. When one set of cams is locked, the other set of flats should be pointed down. Don't use any paint marks on the cam gear. Ever. They are not accurate. You will understand why you have to loosen the cam gears when you put the new belt on and install the tensioner. When tension is applied, the belt moves the cams that are not locked down and throws the timing off. Hope this helps.

**GTP_MuNkY** · 06-20-2006, 09:02 PM

So its not possible to lock all the cams into place when you tare down the engine and just re-assemble them? The reason I ask is because I have to tare it down to replace gaskets. I thought about having a shop do it, but for $1000+ I'll run the risk of breaking the engine myself. My only problem is the timing, its got me freaked out because I was told by the guy at the GM parts counter that if I screw up even slightly the valves will be toast.
I'm not changing the timing belt or anything just yet, I want to get the engine running and have it run for a couple months before I feel safe to spend that kind of money on it, after having so much coolant in the engine I'm concerned about my bearings.

Jamie

**Zboy** · 06-21-2006, 12:30 AM

It is possible to lock the cam gears together on one bank and lock the flats on the other but this requires a cam gear locking tool that costs about $50. I know Napa has them in the Napa Hand Tool line. The only problem is that as the timing belt ages, it tends to stretch and throw the timing off so you are trusting that the existing timing is correct. Your belt broke so now your cams are all out of timing. The engine needs to be retimed. DO NOT TRUST PAINT MARKS ON THE CAM GEARS! Not many people know how to to properly time these engines. GM techs included. If you set the timing wrong, the car will either not run or just run very poorly unless you know what you are doing, then cam timing changes can be made with good results. Contrary to popular belief these are not interference engines. However, if the timing belt breaks at high rpms, the connecting rods can stretch and the valves may contact the pistons. This is only at high rpms. Belt breakage at idle or any thing below about 3000 rpm there is very little chance of valve contact. The last thing is don't listen to GM parts guys, or really anyone that starts talking shit about these engines. I am sure everyone on this site has heard someone swear up and down that by screwing up the timing they wrecked a perfectly good engine, blah, blah, blah. The truth is, most people are ignorant when it comes to these engines, and ignorancy breeds fear. Most Gm techs I've known won't touch these engines for that reason. So use this site to answer any questions you have. The guys on here know what the hell they are doing. Good luck.

**GTP_MuNkY** · 06-21-2006, 07:03 AM

Sweet, well if its possible to lock both banks of cams and then just re-assemble the engine with the new gaskets, I'm set. My belt looks fine, although I will inspect it when I have it off for any cracking, but I can't see it being an issue for a while yet.

Jamie

**patgizz** · 06-21-2006, 08:31 AM

honestly, the last time i did one i had no time to make the tools. i used vise grips (not cranking down hard) to lock both pairs of cams to each other(fronts locked together, rears locked together) via the gears where they are closest together. my belt didn't break though, was just old. i did that, made my own timing marks, cut the belt and put the new one on and my timing was spot on. be warned you can and will damage the cam gears this way if you think you need to squeeze vise grips with all your might to make things hold.

**RednBlack** · 06-21-2006, 01:45 PM

Has anyone ever seen LQ1 valves bend as the result of a thrown belt?

I bought an engine that the owner swore a valve was bent because of a thrown belt.(His GM Tech told him so) Nope...

**Zboy** · 06-21-2006, 11:58 PM

Hell, I haven't even seen an LQ1 with bent valves period. I think people are just retarded.

**grandprixgtp_91** · 06-23-2006, 08:54 PM

they are NON-INTERFERENCE motors they will not bend, the only time ive heard of valves bending in one of these motors is from that idiot that wrote about the 3.4L haveing 275 hp, he said that he bent the valves from a broken timing belt, but i dont believe it because ive had a a belt break on me at 7000rpm on a very high mileage engine and all it broke was the timing chain tensioner. no bent valves.

Jake

**sunny_8** · 06-28-2006, 05:55 PM

Patgizz......so I have a belt that is running off the cam gears..which would mean I need to replace the 3 idlers.....

I wanted to do what you were saying...using vicegrips... can you give me a bit more detail pls ? Do i need to rip the top of the engine off...or can I access it from the side.....also what marks and where did you make them and how did you get the belt back on ?

thanks,

**sunny_8** · 07-05-2006, 02:39 PM

Can anyone tell me what I am supposed to rotate to match the mark on the Engine for timing ? I see in the timing belt procedure, the mark on the dampner....but it looks like you do not rotate the crank, but the thing undert the crank ....is this correct ?

Just ordered all parts.....:-)

Thanks,

**sunny_8** · 07-05-2006, 03:12 PM

Can anyone tell me what I am supposed to rotate to match the mark on the Engine for timing ? I see in the timing belt procedure, the mark on the dampner....but it looks like you do not rotate the crank, but the thing under the crank ....is this correct ?

Just ordered all parts.....:-)

**napatiger** · 07-08-2006, 10:43 AM

rotate engine from crank pulley ...15mm.
I did not have to use vise grips.
just line up lower timing mark, confirm #1 piston at top.
Loosen all cam locks. Use a flat piece of metal to time front bank.
Rotate engine. Flatten the rear cams.
Good to go.

**sunny_8** · 07-20-2006, 05:18 PM

What is the crankshaft to engine timing mark ? Is it set the way I see here :

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http://60degreev6.com/showthread.php?t=24967

I thought the mark is actually on the crankshaft, this seems its on somthing else.....

thanks,

**sunny_8** · 07-24-2006, 11:59 AM

so I just fliiping screwed things up...

Did not tighten down the hold down tool well enough and the rear bank cam moved....

so now what ?

I have the paint mark on the Crank lined up with the knotch on the engine, but the mark on the dampner does not line up with the arrow thing....so is it off ?

I set this up before taking the belt off...

I have a 95, do I need to remove the cam lock rings ? the proc is a little confusing for me.....

thanks

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