Random stalling

[Arfur]

Alright I'm new here and I've been reading a lot of topics about stalling in general on here and some things sound like my problem but none really fit. I have a 92 z34.

When it started out my car would warm up and then stall out. Turns out my valve cover gaskets were bad and leaking oil on my spark plugs and then they fouled my cat. So I canged out the gaskets, plugs, and wires. It would still warm up and stall out, so my buddie scaned it and it read nothing, which lead me to believe the cat was fouled. So I cut it out and put a straight pipe in there and it ran a lot better. I had thought I solved my problem, but now it just randomly stalls out. There was a time on the highway it tried to stall out, chugged, and at lower rpms it'll chug and sometimes shut off, or at idle just cut out. Some days it's fine others it's not. I put it in neutral and it'll fire right back up and be fine. The injectors are only a few years old, and to me it seems more like a short or something.

I'd really like to figure this out rather than take it to a mechanic and just paying them to put a bunch of new parts on it till it works right.

[HayesPerformance]

My GP did that

Hey,

My STE did that. One thing that is common in those years for causing random stalling is the Wires going to the fuel pump are small gauge and heat up after the car has been running for awhile. There is quite a voltage drop from the relay in the front to the pump in the back. This problem with the fuel pump harness usually only has happened in the a number of the late 80's to early 90's GM cars and some trucks.
Carter sells a up-dated harness but it is only a section. You may very well still get it stalling. If you can afford the whole new sending unit with the pump, it comes with the most common section that causes problems that comes from the sending unit.
I would recommend runing a new 14 ga wire to a NEW relay up front to the GREY (+) fuel pump wire and tie into the grounds, both the BLACK (-) wire and the BLACK/WHITE (-) wire and run a new 14 ga wire to a GOOD COMMON GROUND.

(If you have the battery in the trunk then run a new relay off that and your grounds from there. STILL using the GREY (+) wire to power the coil on the new relay)

In all cases that we have had this happen, this always resolved it.

Best Regards,
Dave

[Doubt_Incarnate]

vapor lock?