different oil weights

[3.4Z24]

just make sure the rings seat before running a synthetic. i seen no end to oil consumption otherwise....

[montessgtp]

synthetic blend 5w-30...

Is anyone running a 5w30 synthetic blend? Also is that wrong oil to use or will it be fine for all year use?
Also i started running that oil in my car after the 1st oil change when it was rebuilt i hope this isnt goin to cause problems?

[brian89gp]

It'll be fine. I run full synthetic 5w30.

[Anonymous]

It'll be fine. I run full synthetic 5w30.

As do I, smart man.

Running synthetic saved me over $600 when I rebuilt my motor because my cams were still excellent, he said they showed so little where it wasn't even funny. But unfortunately it didn't do so hot with the bearings, but that is not the oil's fault, it is mine and the bearings.

[pocket-rocket]

I would say 90% your fault, not your's and the bearings fault...

[Anonymous]

I would say 90% your fault, not your's and the bearings fault...

Hey hey hey, lets not be a hatin here.....






hahahahahaha

[MBTech]

generally speaking, you should continue using the same oil that the engine has been running from day one. if you are not sure what kind that is, just pick one and stick with it. it is not recommended however to switch to synthetic with 50000/60000+ miles on it. if you are or have rebuilt your engine, synthetic is a great oil to run. however, you must be aware of you clearances when choosing the
proper thickness of oil. but don't be fooled into thinking that a full synthetic oil will keep any damage from occuring to your engine. Mercedes Benz/Diamler Chrystler
is having alot of troubles with thier 112 v6 and 113 v8 engines wiping out rocker arm bearings and tearing up cylinder walls. this is the same v6 that is in the crossfire. just make sure you do your homework before choosing your oil!!!

[Lyle's GTP]

The oil thing. Well the lower the number the colder the outside temp can be and the higher the number the hotter it can be. I also know that synthetic oils are far superior to the old dino juice any day. I use castrol syntec 5W-50 in my ride and its great. Also any oil has been strictly engineered to hold its viscosity through its whole temp range. Oil additive will only hinder this, so don't use any it's all an unnessesary gimick. Besides if you listen to the unbias opinions on the stuff and read the technical testing they always do very poorly or there is no noticable difference.

[Streetrodder83]

One thing to point out is that a wide range multiviscosity oil makes it unstable. The larger the range the more that's being asked of that oil to do. Also, if the oil sees high temp. the materials that are used to create the multiviscosity can be cooked out of the oil, and gum up the oiling system. That is a bigger problem for turbo cars. A number accompanied by a W refers to an oils flow characteristics at a cold temp. a number by itself refers to oil flow charateristics at a high temp. Actually some additives do things such as reduce friction, such as the ones containing PTFE (Teflon), but they do it at the expense of gumming up the oiling system. This was proven by Ohio State University a number of years back. If it is possible, it is peferable to run a straight weight oil, because of the lack of the polymers used to create the multiviscosity, making it more stable, but lacking cold flow characteristics, pontentially causing damage on cold start up. Now, sythetics don't have as big a problem with wide range in viscosity, but you don't want to get carried away with it.

[Mario&Luigi]

I noticed a difference in my Lumina from 10w-30 synthetic to 5w-30.
For some reason my car likes the 5w-30. I use Mobil 1 because is is easy to find at most stores. Most synthetics will work well.

I have heard about thsi product AMSOIL. Supposedly the first in synthetic the originators of the stuff. The thing is it is pricy. AMSOIL also makes Hastings oil filter which are the best.

I have not tryed this stuff yet but I think I will soon.

As far as additives go I would not use them. A quality oil will lubricate and cool things just fine without additives.

[pocket-rocket]

Actually some additives do things such as reduce friction, such as the ones containing PTFE (Teflon), but they do it at the expense of gumming up the oiling system.

Yeah, I have heard that Teflon is something better left in the kitchen on frying pans then in an engine, and Dupont even says so.

[pocket-rocket]

I noticed a difference in my Lumina from 10w-30 synthetic to 5w-30.
For some reason my car likes the 5w-30. I use Mobil 1 because is is easy to find at most stores.

I like and use Mobil 1 in my 92, and the regular Mobil (the stuff that says drive clean on it) or the Exxon stuff, both being the same oil, just different color bottles in the 91. The 91 has too many miles and is getting too worn out to use Mobil 1. Reason I use the regular Mobil in it is when you pour it out of the bottle, you can see how much cleaner it is then regular oils just by looking at the color of it, cause I don't want a bunch of usless shit in my engine oil. So how did you notice a difference in your Lumina? I am curious if it was lifter tick, faster reves, or better gas mileage.

[JasonZ34]

Re: different oil weights

Some say that 5w30 is used for emissions purposes, some say it is necessary. Then I hear about others using 10w40 and 15w50 because it makes the engine last longer. Whats everyones general opinion on this?

Emmisions doesn't have much to do with unless it changes how the engine performs. 5w30 and 10w40 are about the same in weight. The 40 is thicker and isn't as good in cold conditions. The 5w30 is probably the better. The first number stands for how quick it can reach the parts when started, lower the better.

5w30 will protect better at start than 10w40, end of story. Your biggest concern with oil should be the brand you buy. A fully synthetic oil is by far the best, Amsoil, Redline are two of the bests. BUT!!! some old engines to not like synthetic oils because they have so much detergants in them that the clean out deposits (from crude oil based oils). Good right? not always, sometimes these deposits have made seals in your engine, switching to synthetic will cause these deposits to go away and as a result you may start leaking or burning oil.

Try a synthetic, Mobil 1, it's the cheapest. If you don't have any oil lose consider Amsoil or Redline. If there is oil loss you need to stick to regular oil.

[93vinx]

at work we sell all synthetics including amsoil, some guys swear by it, havn't heard any hting bad about synthetics except you don't wanna swith over if you have a high amount of miles, doing so may cause leaks or burning of oil. synthetic oil is finer, same viscosity but smaller particles, as for additives those go both ways but i disagree with the use of those as well as motor flush. the filter are a whole other story, but don't let the numbers fool you the way in which the filters are tested is very important, a fram tough gaurd is 99 percent efficietn mobil one is 98, but they are tested under different standards, so the numbers mean nothing, the standards change the particale sizes. synthetics are definatly better and wel worth it, we also have synthetic trans fluid and gear oil! mobil ! and have now have begun carring truck, suv, and motorcyle synthetics a whole new era.

[pocket-rocket]

Screw Fram!!! I had a pegged oil pressure gauge forever due to a Fram filter not passing enough oil at once. Switched to a Purolator, problem gone. I have heard so many bad things about Fram.