Just want STOCK timing. Belt broke. Yes, searched/read...

[34T]

I have a 91 tdc; the belt was broken when I got it and I am just getting around to replacing the belt now. I dont want to do the 13 degree or anything other than stock for now; I simply want to replace the belt but I can't find THAT particular thread.

Is there one for this? I know and have read CLOSELY all the custom ones and stickies etc, but they deal with turning the cam gears etc etc and I don't want to do that. (right now)

There is a short blurb at the end of one thread for doing stock timing but it depended on having the 'flats' tool and then (must be?!?) having the timing belt IN PLACE to turn the cams 360 to check the crank timing mark. That seemed a bit strange or else is meant for some other situation?

I know what the stock crank timing mark is and I see that there are marks on my cam cogs (that PROB are meant to line up....) but I would like to be 100% sure. Right now my cam cogs should be right for the cams as they have not been customized. I just need to know how to set them all to the crank.

Thanks for any help.

GP

[RollinonZ34]

First of all, let me say that i am not a Mechanic... but this first Thread helped me do my Stock Timing! Listen to what White Z34 says on how
to do it. Only thing about this is that he suggests to Not Loosen Rear Cam Bolts to make it easier...The proper way to get Timing closer is to loosen
All 4 Cam Bolts.

Also, The 2nd. thread will take you to this sites Cam Timing Picture & Text
walkthrough...Very Nice...

Hope this helps,
Paul

http://www.60degreev6.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=5089

http://www.60degreev6.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=DOHC&file=index&req=listarticles&secid=7

[34T]

Thanks Paul; I think I got what I need; that is great.
All I am trying to do is put a stock belt on a stock engine where the cam gears have not been adjusted in the past....... so I figured it would be a snap.....
but...... I have a 91 era engine and in the 2nd thread (which I have read closely) if you look about 2/3 of the way down there is a line that says:

"........First use a 15mm socket to rotate ALL cams with the flats face up. Then remove cam gear bolt using cam gear holding tool and 15mm socket. The rear cam gear will NOT come off without pulling the cam carrier on a 91-93 engine due to the lock ring setup. 94+ can remove all 4 cam gears easily....."

This is where I got a bit unclear about what is the best way. However what WhiteZ34 said sounds good and doable. It sounds like I will just adjust ONE set as per Mike's outline but that is fine.

I also have (what looks like stock) 'paint' timing markd on the cam cogs to line them up with each other. All 4 have them and each pair has a mark on a 'male' and a 'female' (tooth or indent) so they DO line up. I am wondering if these are factory marks and if they are aligned when the harmonic balancer is lined up with the 'pointer' in the cover if the engine is properly aligned then.....???

I haven't posted pix here before so can't get a picture up of the marks.
thanks for the help!
gp

[RollinonZ34]

Glad that helped! Just keep in mind about what i said if you only loosen the Front 2 Cam Sprockets, and not the Rear 2 Cog Sprockets...
When you think that you have everything all lined up properly, and you then pull out the pin on the Actuator, it tightens up on the Belt and with the Rear 2 Cam Cogs not being loose, it will turn the Crank via Intermediate Sprocket...therefore throwing off the Crank Mark...about 10* advanced, or before the proper Crank Mark!!! Hard to understand untill you actually do it and see what i mean. I simply set Cams to where they were supposed to be, 180* apart and set Crank about 10* before Mark on Cover Plate...Then when i pulled out the Acuator pin and everything tightened up, it landed right on the money...Luck + a little trial and error...had to do it 2 or 3 times before i figured out .

As far as the Yellow marks you are looking at on Cog Gears...I was told on this site and others, that these are to be ignored...but will leave that up to you. Hope this helped!...Paul

[34T]

Glad that helped! Just keep in mind about what i said if you only loosen the Front 2 Cam Sprockets, and not the Rear 2 Cog Sprockets...
When you think that you have everything all lined up properly, and you then pull out the pin on the Actuator, it tightens up on the Belt and with the Rear 2 Cam Cogs not being loose, it will turn the Crank via Intermediate Sprocket...therefore throwing off the Crank Mark...about 10* advanced, or before the proper Crank Mark!!! Hard to understand untill you actually do it and see what i mean. I simply set Cams to where they were supposed to be, 180* apart and set Crank about 10* before Mark on Cover Plate...Then when i pulled out the Acuator pin and everything tightened up, it landed right on the money...Luck + a little trial and error...had to do it 2 or 3 times before i figured out .

As far as the Yellow marks you are looking at on Cog Gears...I was told on this site and others, that these are to be ignored...but will leave that up to you. Hope this helped!...Paul

thanks Paul
no, I DO know what you mean; when I saw the pix of the (very loose) belt in place withOUT the tensioner that is the first thing I thought of.... how to maintain the alignment when you apply tension...... and that wasn't covered but I will give this a try. Does the paperclip simply 'pull out' or do you have to 'compress' the tensioner (somehow) to do that?

Thanks again!
now I can keep going.
GP

[34T]

and by the way I am not going to take a chance on the yellow marks..........

[RollinonZ34]

The pin just easily pulls out and that releases the steel ball in the end of
the actuator. This then tightens up the belt system. If you do not have all 4 Cam Cogs loose to be able to turn freely, ( meaning the rear still tightened and not loosened) the slack taken up when the belt tightens up will turn Intermediate shaft. that is connected by a chain behind Timing cover to the Crank, and will turn Crank when taking up the slack in belt when Pin is pulled! To make up for this Crank movement if you do not want to or can't loosen Rear Cam Cogs...Simply set the Crank about an inch ahead of the timing mark(if memory serves me correctly) and then when it tightens up and Crank moves when pin is pulled, it should turn or move Crank and land pretty close to where it should be...even with pointer mark on cover....This is for referance only if you can not loosen Rear Cam Cogs.....Paul