has anyone found an aftermarket source to use a gilmer or HTD belt on the cam drive? if not, i'm going to have some custom pulleys made and maybe offer a kit to do this myself.
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aftermarket belt drive?
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wats the HTD belt about? I had a crazy idea too of chaning the cam gearing frmo belt to chain since you can machine custome cams for a chain drive...it was only an idea\"Pree\" - 93 Grand Prix SE - 3.4L Twin Dual Cam
- FFP UD Pulley - FFP Chip - 8mm Taylor Wires
- 160* T/stat - Dual 40 Series Flowmasters
- Hi-Flo Cat
15.2@95mph - GTECH P/B
http://home.rgv.rr.com/tjperformance/Cap0005.mpg
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I think modding the physical features of the timing belt system in any way is asking for reliability issues. The stock setup isnt bad, just needs to be maintained, although I do feel 60k is too much for it. I think 40k is more realistic... then again I had the belt tensioner let go after 30k, everything else was ok though. I guess mileage isnt the best indicator, seeing how we all drive differently, I bet a car that is abused more and sees high rpm more often will wear the components of the belt system faster.
Anyways what are those belts you mentioned? Are they just higher performance belts? less friction or something?1991 Grand Prix GTP LX9swap/Getrag 284 --- SOLD =(
1994 Corvette LT1/ZF6
2006 Dodge Dakota 4x4 3.7/42RLE
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many aftermarket dry sump oil pump drives and GMC roots blower drives use gilmer and HTD belts. they have rounded or square teeth instead of hexoganal(stock) and you can get them with kevlar in the belts. i'm going to use the round teeth-they're more suited to high rpm use.
i'm not changing the tensioner system or pulley diameters. i just want a higher performance belt drive that doesn't shred itself.
2300 ford racing four cylinders convert to round tooth belt cam drives and are very reliable to close to 10k RPM and see the racing equivalent to 200k street miles before thier systems need maintenance. i don't think reliability is going to be an issue there.
i'm going to go ahead and send my pulleys off and do a have some prototypes made, then. i'll post on cost estimates when it's finished and keep updates on milage and wear.
one of the reasons i'm doing this is to keep teardowns to a minimum. i just picked up a '94 lumina z34, so in car belt maintenence isn't an issue there. but pulling the 3.4 out of my '95 cav everytime i need to change the whole belt drive system doesn't appeal to me.
also, i've heard of the alluminum pulleys wearing out. having them hard anodized seems to solve this and it's not an expensive process.\'94 lumina z34 auto
\'95 cavalier z34 5-speed
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Originally posted by dykz34Whats a Cavalier Z34?
Marty'99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
'98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
'84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
'88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now
Quote of the week:Originally posted by AaronThis is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.
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Originally posted by grandprix34wats the HTD belt about? I had a crazy idea too of chaning the cam gearing frmo belt to chain since you can machine custome cams for a chain drive...it was only an idea
Marty'99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
'98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
'84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
'88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now
Quote of the week:Originally posted by AaronThis is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.
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i had the idea of changing it over to chain drive for a high performance (distant future) rebuild. i think all you would need to do is have a place like where michael has the pulleys made machine them out of solid chunks. stock cams, stock lockrings, smaller to fit chain: drive pulley, all 4 cam pulleys, idlers, and tensioner. the only hard part is figuring out exactly what size to make all the pulleys. get some titanium valve springs and beefier bottom end and you'll be revving to 9k+ in no time. anyone see why this wouldn't work? besides the fact that one might explode a lifter, but there is a lot of surface contact with the DOHC. and you'll prolly need a new puter.93 Z34 Auto (old, dead, slow, in peices)
91 GTP 5spd (older, faster, better)
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Belts are better for high rpm use... they have MUCH less mass and less friction. i would not use a chain. It is not as simple as you make it sound... you have to have a way to oil it effectively and you also have to have chain guides to keep them from slapping around since they dont run under a lot of tension.
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well i doubt anyone will be exceeding 9k rpms with the stock belt. well at least not for very long intervals. i got changing my belt down to 4 hours on the 2nd attempt, it's not really that bad.93 Z34 Auto (old, dead, slow, in peices)
91 GTP 5spd (older, faster, better)
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yea, that's me. i've been a big fan of the 3.4 TDC for years now. always wanted to do something funky with one because of it's great potential, and now i've got a worthy project for one.
i really like that the 3.4 is going to almost be a bolt-in.\'94 lumina z34 auto
\'95 cavalier z34 5-speed
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