Z34 Alternator

[Anonymous]

Mine started leaking there also. I just bought some heavy duty hose and clamped it on either end. Is it leaking at the weld seam for one of the brackets?

[getragz34]

Yuppers

The seam on the middle bracket
Of course its pretty rusted there, but didn't leak beofre I moved it
Go figure
Thats what I'm going to do I think, is insert some hose there.
Have you taken it off before ?
How hard is it to take off and replace ?

Thanx for the quick response

Later

[Anonymous]

I just used a cut-off wheel and cut it off where it turns down from the water pump and then where it turns to go to the heater core.

[getragz34]

Thanx

Thanx for the pic to show where you did it exactly.
I think thats what I'm going to do.

Right now its not leaking, but I don't want to take any chances.

Thanx again

[pocket-rocket]

If it leaked once, it will leak again as soon as the pressure builds up from hot coolant, so don't drive the car very far before you fix it, and if you do, keep an eye on that low coolant light, and the level in the radiator just in case the light doesn't work.

[Anonymous]

I had to pry those lines out of the way, but I didn't disconnect them, therefore I havn't had a problem from them yet.

[getragz34]

Thanx Again

Sorry been busy with christmas stuff to come back and reply.
The line is not leaking yet, but keeping a good eye on it cause I know it will leak soon.

Thanx for all the help you guys, sure makes things go alot smoother with some good input.

Ciao

[bud36light]

Clean the rust off of the mounting tab seam and JB weld. Mine held for a couple of months till I chickened out and bought the $45 oem pipe. The replacement of this pipe rivals any job on this engine on the PITA scale on the DOHC.

[getragz34]

So far So good

The pipe is still not leaking, knock on wood.
But when it does I'm going to weld the seam if it isn't to rusted.
I bought a piece of heater hose for that size diameter of pipe just incase something happens in the mean time.

I'll keep everyone posted.
Wish me luck
LOL

Later

[leakyX]

you guys are crazy, i had mine out and in to my grand prix in an hour and a half, without takin all that crap apart, just drop the right side of the subframe down and it will wiggle out. I read the service manuals and said screw all that.

[getragz34]

No time at all

Yes I did mine a different way as well. I really didn't have to remove much stuff like they said. As soon as the Axle hub was out of the way, plop the alternator just came right out. Didn't have to remove tie rod, didn't have to lower the craddle. The plastic vent was a little bit in the way of the rear alternator nut, but that was about it.
I took my time and got as much feedback as possible. The guys on this board were excellent in helping.
All the stuff to do on the z34s and the grand prixs is really not that hard. Just some things take more time. I'm sure if you bring your car to a mechanic all the time it will cost alot, but so do other cars.
Try owning a lexus and getting the timing belt changed on that.

Thanx again for all your posts

Ciao

[4spdz34]

ya i just changed my alt on my new motor. so get this i buy the reman alt from murrays( everything was supposidly replaced inside) i install it on the motor ( i was putting my 95 motor into my 93 z34) and i replaced that coolant pipe while i was there, that was 9 days ago. that alt charged for about 5 mins then it was dead. so i thought it was the wiring cause i had to change the wires from 93 to 95. well after me and my dad rewired the whole damn alt, it still didn't work, so i went and bought a acdelco one from the dealer. i had never changed the alt in car before but imust say it is easy. i dropped the passenger side of the cradle and pulled out the tie rod end and it fell right out, the job only took me 1.5 hours. well that one worked and when i went to go get my money back for the alt the fuckers were giving me a hard time, so they test it and it didn't pass one of there tests. the guy thought i was lieing to him and that there was noway his bosch alt was bad. i hate murrays!!!!

[grandprix34]

which bolts do you remove to drop the subframe? I need to replace my ALT by 2morrow at 1pm so let me know which bolts and how to hold the car up..hehe.

[Anonymous]

Don't drop the subframe, more work than you want to do. trust me. Then you have to hold up the motor, etc. Just remove the half shaft and it gives you enough room.

[pocket-rocket]

Clean the rust off of the mounting tab seam and JB weld. Mine held for a couple of months till I chickened out and bought the $45 oem pipe. The replacement of this pipe rivals any job on this engine on the PITA scale on the DOHC.

The power steering pressure hose is fun to do. So is changing the rack with only being able to drop the drivers side of the subframe because I stripped the head off of the passenger side rear frame bolt.