I read the top post and have a few questions, I'll be doing this at home on my own and am confident I can do it. But why do I have to loosen the cam pullies and what is the lock ring, also why after setting the belt up do I have to turn it one full rotation to do the front? And when do I tighten the pullies again. What keeps them from spinning, aparently the cam and gear aren't splined? I'm sure I'll have more questions once I get into it.
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95 3.4 timing belt replacement, not to beat it to death
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Re: 95 3.4 timing belt replacement, not to beat it to death
Originally posted by BLstanginwhy after setting the belt up do I have to turn it one full rotation to do the front?
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Re: RE: Re: 95 3.4 timing belt replacement, not to beat it t
Originally posted by sappyse107GM is retarded sometimes:PIf you are driving a Chevy, everything else, is just a blur. 3.4 Carbon Footprint.
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lock ring is 91-93 only ???
I have a 95; I think that it has lock rings? Well what ever they are, they locked down by them self while I was rotating the engine and I popped out the cam lock down from the aluminum head....
So.... when you lock one side and the other is not locked; you should make sure that the ring is not even close to the damn cam because the cam sproket will still move with the belt and can cause the ring to work its way in and lock when your not looking.
I hope I don't have a piece of metal in my heads.....95 MC Z34 Black
Running strong with new engine, transmission, brakes and suspension.
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Re: RE: Re: 95 3.4 timing belt replacement, not to beat it t
Originally posted by sappyse107I wish they would have just machined the damn cam flats properly so you wouldn't need to do that
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