Re-sealed the blasted O-RING and oil still flowing..WTF!&

[charsi187]

All,

Ok so I redid the oring sealing, man I used the whole tube of copper sealent. and the thing still leaks...

Now I am lost. Checking out the page <http://www.brian89gp.com/images/engine/intake%20gasket/DSCF0028.JPG>

I am not sure what that thing is called in the middle, where it has a zig-zag pattern on it, but I was thinking that it could be leaking. What you all think ?
Also where else can the oil come up from ? If you are facing the front of the car, then it leaks right at the o-ring location and comes from the rear left. I can see it start to flow. It takes about 4 mintutes before it starts a constant drip, which may mean it pools up some place.

The only issue is when i take the lower off, coolent flys everywhere, and then i cannot trace back the oil leak.

Any ideas ? Help please....I know all of you are skilled !!
I am in plainfield, IL if anyone is near by...also what about some oil dye...can I get it at autozone ?
I dont really wanna pay the dealer if I can DIY....
thanks to all..

[charsi187]

forgot to mention the coolent leak at the front right

dont know where its coming from, but coolent is leaking onto the exhaust manifold, and is burning....

any clues ?

thanx

[your_I.D.]

99% of the time it is the o-ring leaking. Did you clean under the edge of the oilpump drive really good with some carb cleaner? (or brake cleaner) Then dry it afterwards. After that work the sealant under the flang all the way around so there is no voids in it. (spots with no sealant) The best kind of sealant to use is an anerobic type. As a stated in the last thread. You can also streatch a large a/c o-ring over the top and under the flang.
Coolant Could be lower intake gaskets didnt seal right or broke. Could also be the quick connect fitting for the heater hose. what else did you have off that is cooling system related? It shouldn't take but about as much sealer as you would put toothpaste on your tooth brush. If its not under the flange it wont seal it. Smearing it over the top will not seal it either.

[charsi187]

ok so it is the o-ring

ok so I put in some dye, and found that its the o-ring.

Now without taking the head off, whats the best procdure and best gaskets to use. I have some saying loctite and permatex is good.

I would like more opinions, as I really dont want to do it again.


Also how much harder is it to take of the heads etc....

do I need to drop the timing belt, exhaust manifold etc....

thanks

[RednBlack]

I cleaned the area well with mold clean, brake clean works as well, then, with the plug tied up with fishing line, shot a good amount of High Temp ATV sealant under the plug. Took a Chevy distributor gasket, cut on one side and worked it around the shaft. Dropped the plug in place and turned it around at least twice to spread the sealant. Locked her down and no leaks. Started it up and found that coolant had collected in the exhaust shields and produced massive amounts of smoke! (steam) A good blast of air cleaned them out. No worries.

[93Oldsdroptop]

I did exactly the same thing as RedNBlackCutlass and it's been fine for over two years now.

The cleanliness is extremely important, and I let mine sit for 24 hours before I fired it back up.

Much better than going thru the BS of pulling the head. Also, if you notch the plug lip a little bit, you can work it up a little higher.

Good luck!

[your_I.D.]

If you notice in my photo above. It has been notched a little to allow more room to lift it.

[charsi187]

How u get it up ?

So i cut the head a bit, like the pic.
I cut a notch into the oring cover.
How much lower can I grind down the o-ring cover ? I cut a notch a little bit above the inner lower circle. can I go a bit more ?

Finally, how can I get the cover up ? I can pull it up a bit, and it clicks, but then it does not come up anymore, and nothing is blocking it from coming up.

Its kinda hard to spin, not really really hard, but just a bit, how hard is it to pull it up and get access to the o-ring ? Whats the best tool to use ?

thanks, I am nearly there with your help !

[your_I.D.]

You wont be able to get to the original o-ring

[charsi187]

ok so I now used some balls and it came about 1/8 of an inch up.
Sprayed the shyt out of it with Brakleen.

I am confused a bit now :

Do I have to and can I get the old o-ring out ?

What size o-ring do I need, one that fits the inner circle snug or the outer circle ? Rubber or silicone ? How thick ?

As for the chevy distribution gasket, is that all I ask autozone for ? besides some permatex ?


thanks,

Nearly done !!

[Doubt_Incarnate]

you wont be able to replace the oring unless you take it all apart. just seal up the mating surfaces as they say. make sure its cean, and just forget about the o-ring.

[Kohburn]

stretching an o-ring over the top to get it under the cap but obviously not into the actual o-ring groove - was the only way to get a gasket solid enough to seal in my experience.

I lifted the plug up about 1/4" and stretch a hightemp o-ring over it to the shaft.. with everything clean - just for good measure i slapped some gasket sealer in there then clamped it down tight - it squished the oring into there making a very solid seal.

[93Oldsdroptop]

I just used the chevy distributor gasket and sealer. Don't worry about the old O ring. Sounds like all is going according to plan for ya.

[charsi187]

ok so what I am understanding is that I get an o ring that will fit over the outer ring, but tight. This way I strech it over the cover and onto the shaft. Add some sealer and tighten her down after a few turns.

Can I add a chevy distributor gasket ? Does it make a difference ?

thanks,

s

[Doubt_Incarnate]

if you use a ring dont use a gasket to. just one or the other