Originally posted by dohcfiend
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Leak in #1
The whiteish coloring is a dead giveaway to coolant being burnt in the cylinder. But more specifically, in that picture, if you look around the 8-9 o'clock position there is that blackish area which indicates compression making it past the metal ring in the head gasket.
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If I am not mistaken, shouldnt the compression numbers be within 10% of eachother? In this case, only 4, 2, 5, and maybe 3 are within the same percentage.
1 is a good sign of a bad headgasket, but shouldnt all the cylinders be over 100?
The four that are within about the same 10% look ok around the headgasket, but the numbers still seem a little low, although i could be wrong. Might be a good idea to get your heads checked and make sure the valves are sealing properly.
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coolant is fine. i pumped about 2 gallons out of the rad and it looked ok. haven't popped the drain plug in the rad yet. haven't checked the oil yet though. compression should be around 125+ in all of them i think.
i was thinking about the same thing lq1 but i didn't know the proper terminology for it b/c usually bad compression is in one cylinder, not all of them.The Official Rotating Mass Nazi
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For the valves they use this rubber round thing that makes an air tight seal over the chamber on the head, and then compressed air is presurized in there and they can read a gauge attached to the device to see how much if any air is being held in there. I had 4 of the 6 chambers on my heads not sealing plus a blown headgasket which explains my 10.6 1/8mile time. Sorry for the lack of correct terminology.
Im gonna give a shot at what looks to me happened. If the gaskets are wet from you pulling the heads off and stuff dripping on them then I am probably wrong but here goes anyway:
On the second picture where someone aboved mentioned the darkened area on the ring on the gasket was some combustion escaping your cylinder you say that is cylinder 1. I dont know which cylinder is which so I will continue off of that assumption. It looks as if the areas between 3 and 5, and 2 and 4 failed somewhat allowing a little coolant in or loss of just enough sealing power to cause the lower numbers there on the compression test. Cylinder 6, and the gasket around it looks better than the rest, but I am unsure of what the little orange spot on the ring on the gasket is. As mentioned above about the white on your pistons, it looks as if though each cylinder was sucking in some coolant. Also, between 3 and 5, and 2 and 4 it looks as if the gasket there started to go a little too as it is somewhat darker in those areas.
Did the engine every get really hot and over heat? If so, I would make sure the heads are also even and not warped and that none of the valve guides have dropped.
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i am taking them to the machine shop in the next 2 days. as ling as i had the engine it never got hot enough to even start the cooling fans. highest i think it seen was about 210 when i first started it and was bleeding coolant and checking tranny fluid and i had to get it warm to do that.
but he is going to check them for straightness and he said he is going to hook some kind of vacuum to it to check for leakage past the valves. i will also mention to him about the guides too. if the heads check out would u suggest i just replace the gaskets and give it a shot?
machine shop guy seems to think it is the rings when i ran those large injectors, he thinks i "washed" the walls or something like that. he suggested i pull 1 piston, remove the ring, put it back in upside down and check with a feeler guage i guess for clearence.
i think i will try the gasket 1st since it is easier. can i just bolt the heads on remove all the plugs, stick something long in there and when the cylinder is in compression, hook up the guage? or do i have to put the cams/timing belt back on?The Official Rotating Mass Nazi
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