crank sensor replacement procedure

[dohcfiend]

got a question. what is the procedure for a cps on a 94 lumi/4t60e?

if i look between the oilpan and tranny pan, i can see it but not get to it.

i see 2 possible angles of approach. from the down pipe area using extension/universals and maybe buddy to spot or guide it. or should i pop the wheel off and try it that way?

[dohcfiend]

RE: crank sensor replacement procedure

bump

[dohcfiend]

RE: crank sensor replacement procedure

cmon, as many crank sensor faults as i have seen on here and noone knows the procedure? i would take it to a shop but the bastard can't hold an idle now. much less go up the road. i am positive it is either the crank sensor or the ecm.

i have spares of everything except the ecm. i have replaced the injectors, the ign module, the coilpacks, went back to stock intake arm so i have replaced the tps and iac and nothing. it runs like a dead miss or the timing is off. checked the plugs all are sooty no oil or coolant, no unusual smoke from the pipes.

[bszopi]

RE: crank sensor replacement procedure

Here is the procedure, although it won't help...

REMOVE OR DISCONNECT:

1. Negative battery cable.
2. Electrical connector from the crankshaft sensor.
3. Sensor hold-down bolt.
4. Sensor from engine.
5. Inspect the crankshaft sensor o-ring for cracks, wear or leakage. Before installing new sensor, lubricate the new o-ring with engine oil.

INSTALL OR CONNECT:

1. New sensor into the hole in the engine block.
2. Tighten the sensor hold-down bolt and torque to 10 N-m (88 in. lbs).
3. Crankshaft sensor electrical connection.
4. Negative battery cable.

NOTE: The system has a learning ability which allows it to make corrections for minor variations in the fuel system to improve driveability. When the battery is disconnected the computer's memory is cleared and the learning process has to begin all over again. A change may be noticed in the driving performance of the vehicle. To reset the vehicles learning ability, make sure the engine is at operating temperature and operate the vehicle at part throttle, moderate acceleration, and idle conditions, until normal performance returns.

That's from AllData, therefore basically right out of the GM Service Manual. Listed as a .7hr job with a 5-spd and 1.1hr job with an auto.

[bszopi]

RE: crank sensor replacement procedure

Well, that last one was for a 92 engine. Here is for a 95 engine...

REMOVE OR DISCONNECT

1. Negative battery cable,
2. Raise vehicle.
3. Intermediate exhaust pipe.
4. Rack and pinion heat shield.
5. Generator cooling duct sensor.
6. Electric connector.
7. 3X crankshaft position sensor.

INSPECT

Sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage. Replace if necessary. Lube new O-ring with clean engine oil before installing.

INSTALL OR CONNECT

1. Sensor into hole in block.
2. Sensor to block bolt (1). Tighten Torque to 8 Nm (71 lb. in.) .
3. Sensor harness connector at sensor.
4. Generator cooling duct.
5. Rack and pinion heat shield.
6. Intermediate exhaust pipe.
7. Negative battery cable.

[dohcfiend]

RE: crank sensor replacement procedure

well crap. i was told i had to remove the alternator to get to it. i have been busy doing that and i got to the rear alt bolt and was stumped on that. i guess after i drop the down pipe i have to use 3 ft of extensions and universals to get to it.

[joey b]

RE: crank sensor replacement procedure

You shouldn't have to remove the alt. Are you running OBD I, cause if so, you only have to worry about the crank sensor in the back of the engine and not the one on the pulley, right? Anyway, I belive that it should pull out with minimal problem. I would try to lower the cradle a tad if you need more clearance. Only one bolt, 10mm I believe. Then the sensor pulls straight out. Unless that sensor was subjected to dropping or high temps, I don't see it being bad. It is simply a magnet and it creates a very misiscual voltage as metal passes by it.

You can also test the sensor AT the ICM. You will need a voltage testor on the millivolt scale. It might produce like 200 mV or so. It also has yellow and purple connector wires. I would test the sensor before replacing it.

[dohcfiend]

RE: crank sensor replacement procedure

got any idea why my car runs so shitty if it isn't the crank sensor? Symptons: 1st it ran fine then under wot it would spit, sputter go a little repeat the same steps over. but it did fine under idle and cruise. then under cruise i had to hold the gas pedal about 50% to maintain speed until i made it home but it would still idle and now it can't even hold an idle. sounds like a dead miss.

i have alot of spare parts so i have replaced the following: ign module, coilpacks, went back to stock injectors, went back to stock intake arm and tb and doing so replaced the iac and tps. my wires are magnecor and they are brand new. my plugs are a/c delco platinums brand new. i checked the plugs they are sooty, no oil synonimous with compresion loss and no coolant on them, i pulled the valve covers and the cams are aligned telling me the car is still in time. only thing i haven't replaced yet is the ecm or the cps.

the problem could be something else. i am open to suggestions. i did a search and i noticed some other cps faults displayed similiar symptoms.

[joey b]

Re: RE: crank sensor replacement procedure

Symptons: 1st it ran fine then under wot it would spit, sputter go a little repeat the same steps over. but it did fine under idle and cruise. then under cruise i had to hold the gas pedal about 50% to maintain speed until i made it home but it would still idle and now it can't even hold an idle. sounds like a dead miss.

i

Sounds like what mine did a couple of weeks ago. It was in fact a loose connector for the CPS. I would check the connector and check the voltage at the ICM. However, I highly doubt that the crank sensor is bad...although it may be. I am going to guess a bad connector rather than a bad sensor though.