another 3.4 engine removal question

[napatiger]

The Hanes manual states that I have to remove the rt side tie rod and some assembly in order to pull the moter...

Why? It seems that doesn't really have anything to do with the motor. Do I need access to something like the starter?

Anyways, the moter is comming out this weekend.

btw 95 monte z34

[SappySE107]

Just pull the axles and the brake resevoir. Its also easier if you pull the fans off the radiator. Other than that, just wiring and other connections to the motor. There is no need to take off the tie rod or anything else for steering just to pull the motor out.

[dohcfiend]

i don't know about a 95 but on my 94(the older body) i had to pull it out on an angle where the passenger side had to be quite a bit higher than the driver's side to clear all the anti-lock brake stuff. also it helps when removing the axles if one side is higher than the other IMO.

[bud36light]

I got one of those and I didnt have to screw with the tie rod. I also have a Haynes man and really dont remember it stating that. I dont have it near enough to check though. Just follow your eyes and only remove what you have to.

[Anonymous]

i don't know about a 95 but on my 94(the older body) i had to pull it out on an angle where the passenger side had to be quite a bit higher than the driver's side to clear all the anti-lock brake stuff. also it helps when removing the axles if one side is higher than the other IMO.

Given mine is older and a 5-speed, but I also had to tilt mine a bunch. Mine was a tight fit no doubt, but it wasn't too bad. We just had 2 people, well 3 if you count the one on the beer break, and a cherry picker.

I left my braek res in the car, and pulled both axles, leaving the tranny(diff ) open with no axles coming out of it.

I don't know what you mean by right side, but we disconnected and moved around most of the passenger side stuff in order to get at the engine mounts and alt brackets and such.

[dohcfiend]

yea, it is pretty tight especially when you have to put it back in. it is IMO worse than removing it. my passenger strut tower has a few scratches on it from the crank pulley.

i left my alternator in though. the only stuff i took off was the plenum, exhaust crossover pipe, starter, rad fans, exhaust downpipe and all applicable coolant hoses, linkages, vac hoses, and wiring. (o yea the hood too duh)

as for the axles when one side was high enough i popped the cv joint out of the differential using a straight screwdirver and a little caution. I didn't even have to touch the tie rods and i have an auto which is bigger than the manual(i haven't seen a lumi manual but compared to a fiero manual the 4t60e is huge campared to it).

in retrospect though it is better than a honda, i helped my friend a little with his civic and the bastard doesn't even have an engine cradle. and i was like :wtf1:

so u have to use a jack and a cherry picker and hold it in the right place be4 u can bolt up the motor mounts. the lumi was a cake walk compared to that further affirming that i personally don't like foreign cars.

[Anonymous]

I pulled my Alt, plenum, pulled every exhaust component, and both fans. I left the AC connected in the car, and left the starter on as well.

I just had it jacked up with no hood, and on jack stands. Then I just used the cherry picker and ran some chains to the brackets on the motor, and ended up bending one of them

[napatiger]

Thanks for the info.

I got the DOHC and W-Body Essential tools from E-bay (missing some parts, of course)

I have removed the following:

Radiator and other smaller radiator for AC,
A/C Compressor and hoses
Serp Belt
X-Over, Down Pipe, EGR
All the wires are labeled cuz I have plenty of time
Starter
Other Misc stuff

New Parts bought so far:

Victor Reins Gaskets ( I know you guys like Fel-Pro, but I get 33% off from Napa Auto through work) Top and Bottom sets
O2 Sensor
Mr Alt HO Alternator
FFP Dogbone
battery relocate to trunk 1/0 gauge wire

Planned parts purchase:

Eibach Springs (should I get struts also?)
Cool colored (red) vaccum hoses
SS braided hose for brake booster
SS G-stop for brake system from tirerack.com
tie rod ends (boots are ripped)
High Flow Cat (any suggestions?)
FFP Pully (what kind of smaller serp belt?)

I suspect some head work for the machine shop.
What do you guys suggest for a budget (400)? Port and polish? Valves? Rings? I would like to oversize pistons .20 but I don't really know why.

[dykz34]

I'd recommend a Magnaflow cat.

You'll need a 72" belt for the UD pulley.

[dohcfiend]

i see where you are coming from aaron. i forgot that mine isn't hooked up but if it was i would leave it in the car so i wouldn't have to disconnect the lines too

[SappySE107]

you wont be doing much with 400 in terms of head work, valves, or boring the block out. Skip the SS brake booster line, its not worth the hassle of install.

[blk92z34getrag]

I second the Nagnaflow Cat, I have one, it's real nice.

Struts, you can determine if you need them easily. Bounce your car (just jump on it) once, it should only bounce like once. If it bounces more, get new struts. KYB GR2's are my suggestion there.


I don't really know anything about the Eubach spring set, but I know the suspension techniques set is REAL good (have them on the front of my car till FFP coil-overs are released, you should wait too I think they'll fit your car). You can check them out on at JCWhitney. They're relatively inexpensive too.

Also, GIMMIE THE HOOK-UPS (link/whatever) TO THE H/O ALTERNATOR!!! I've been obviously looking in all the wrong places for one. Also how many amps is it? I know the stock is 100 amps (a lot).

[dohcfiend]

High Flow Cat (any suggestions?)

depending on where you live my suggestion would involve a long crowbar and a big hammer to your stock cat. cost $0. get another stocker from a junkyard and switch it when inspection comes around. it will be a time investment though. you will have to get to know the peeps at the yard cause most won't sell cats until u "know" them.

*coughs* 400 dollars? it will cost you 300 to bore the block give or take a little. then pistons, then rings.

skip the overbore. maybe deck your heads a little. about 10 thousandths i think you can get that done for about 50 give or take a little, then get your plenum/tb ported that might chew up your remaining 350.

if you have a little cash to burn, kick this around. get your cams reground. but it is a risk though. you would be the 1st i think. my .02