Plug Wire Shmag?

[Dave's Z-34]

Since my oil pan gasket job has led to changing spark plugs which has led to changing the wires???

5 out of six plug boots are coated in rust shmag and I think I've found the cause of the engine running like crap after I clean the engine. Only one of the plug boots was really bad and letting moisture get to the plug but I'm changing all the wires anyways.

Has anyone else seen this with their 3.4's ? The wires are not cracked and except for the boots are actually in good condition. These boots have o-rings that are supposed to keep crap out of the plug valleys. I'm thinking of wrapping the boots where the o-rings are with electrical tape to help them seal.

Would anyone else have any experience with this or better idesa than electrical tape?

[Anonymous]

You mean at the part where the wire turns to dive into the head, like right at the top? If so, I think we all have a bit of crap leak there, but my wires have a second O-ring down right above where the plug fits in, and those seem to work perfectly. Lasty, if a solid substance, not liek water or oil, gets in there it really shouldnt make much of a difference, but I would be worried about pulling my plugs and letting that crap fall into the cylinder.

Don't wrap them with tape, that is a very high heat area and you would be BEGGING for problems by doing that, and it would without a doubt melt the tape.

[Dave's Z-34]

thats the part I'm talking about.....

eerrr, good call on the tape, I didn't consider the heat. Hopefully new wires will seal it off, only one was causing a problem, but I suppose soon the other plug boots would start heading south.

I ordered them from the local GM dealership and they had to get them from Lansing, Michigan!!?? I live in northern B.C, can't fucking believe it that something this common is now so rare for the 3.4'S ?

[Anonymous]

But remember the wires on the 3.4 aren't exactly normal. First thing they are pretty long, and they have those plastic parts that dive into the head.

I bet going through the dealer was not cheap, I woulda tried an auto shop first. My theory was I'd rather get good lifetime wires and spend a lot more than have to replace them. Cuz replacing the wires is kinda a pain. THe Magnecor's, lifetime GOOOD wires, are not cheap though.

[Dave's Z-34]

240.00 cdn for AC Delco plugs and wires!! Just for a giggle I had them price out the passenger door handle (I've already replaced the drivers side a year ago) 300.00 cdn for that. I paid 170.00 for an aftermarket one when I replaced the drivers side. First the oil leak issue before I get to the handle......

I'm new to Fort St John B.C and thought I'd give this dealership a try but they haven't been very impressive so far. Whatever parts I need from here on will be bought from Napa. This car since around 100,000 miles is starting to fall apart. The body & interior is mint but I've got this leak, the door handle, the vacuum leak, shot rear struts and the timing belt is going to have to be addressed real soon. I've replaced the alternator and driver side window motor in the last couple months but it seems I can't keep up. I still like this car but one thing is for sure, the distributor hole o-ring, alternator, brakes & timing belt are absolutely guaranteed to fail on these cars.

[Anonymous]

Yah the door handles suck. My drivers side is fine, but my pass side is getting bent. Its going to break any day now.

Ironically I've also done my alt 3 times, brakes 4 times now, And I had to do my drivers window motor. That was a bitch too. My entire suspension is shot

[Dave's Z-34]

Grrrr, that power window motor was an extreme bitch, as every repair on these cars are. I got introduced to the wonderful world of rivets when doing the power window motor, not much fun.

[pocket-rocket]

I can't remember how many times I have done the alternator. Have to do the window motor on the drivers side on the 91. Done the brakes all around on the 91 maybe 3 times or so (lifetime warranties rock!), haven't touched them besides painting the calipers on the 92 Pass. handle on the 92 is bent though. Got locked out of the 91 while it was running when the drivers side broke > Done all 4 struts on the 91, and the rears need done again (jacked it up one time, heard a creaking, sat back, and watched the tire shoot down after being up for about 10 seconds, lmao). Did the fronts on the 92, and the rears need done on it too, lol. I quit counting timing belts a while back since most of them aren't mine, lol. Be sure to put some dielectric grease in the ends of the wires when you put them on. It makes pulling the wires off of the plugs nice and easy, keeping your wires intact, and helps seal out moisture. I say moisture because after your engine warms up, the water will boil out, turning into steam, getting in to tight spots easier.

[Kris69]

I have a 92 Z-34 that has 205,000 on it. I had it tested and there's no output with the battery being fully chargerd. I have also replaced the 3 wires coming off the alternater, 1 going to starter the other 2 going to fuse box near radiater. I also took alternater off and had it bench tested its good and batery is good also, maybe a relay???

[pocket-rocket]

Check the two wires in the connector going into the alternator for voltage. There is no relay between the alternator output and the battery. It makes a jump from the alternator output, to the starter, then from the starter right to the battery. The alternator also has to have a signal from the ignition switch when it is spinning to get it to "turn on", so I think if it bench tested ok, then it's not getting a signal from the ignition since you have already replaced the output lead wires.