Starter issues

[project 92z]

Ok, I recently replaced the starter in my 91 Z34 because the old one would only start sometimes. Then it stopped all together. When I replaced it, it started out ok but then began to click one time when I'd turn the key. I'd have to sit and turn the key 5-10 times before it would. Thinking was a faulty starter again, I replaced it. Same thing. Any ideas? New starter, new cable to starter, newer battery...


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[robertisaar]

worn out ignition switch?

if you can manually engage the starter consistently(apply 12V to the solenoid wire through a ~10 guage wire off of the battery or aux + terminal), that will rule out the starter, solenoid and the starter motor +/ground connections, then you'll be down to the starter solenoid wire and ignition switch... I can't think of much else that would cause something like this.

[pocket-rocket]

I second the ignition switch.

I've had one fail in one of my cars to where power to accessories stayed on after turning off the key, then the next day losing power to accessories (and losing gauges because of it) while driving down the road. I've also replaced quite a few later model (late 90s, early 2k) GM ignition switches back when I was working on cars while laid off.

I would put money on throwing a multimeter on the start lead of the starter and getting less than 10v when attempting to crank.

[project 92z]

Thanks folks. I'll be back on it Sunday. A friend suggested dropping the starter again and testing it w/o the shims or flywheel load. It was a pain swapping out the starter cause of the oil cooler. Really don't wanna mess with that again. It was also suggested that the ground for the block might be the culprit. It's pretty green so I'll be replacing that too

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[project 92z]

I recently read another thread with the same issue. Turned out to be the ignition switch. After replacing the starter, battery and cables, I think I might have the same problem. My question is could the switch also create a hard start prob. Especially when it's cold out, I have to keep the rpm hi until the fuel begins to "flow" on its own

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[neophile_17]

When was the last time you did the fuel filter? That's cheap and easy though not necessarily fun.

The slow warm-up sounds different than the no start unless it's ground related. I assume you replaced both block to battery and block to body or however it is in this body. There should be 2 main ground cables although one may be smaller.

[Schurkey]

I recently read another thread with the same issue. Turned out to be the ignition switch. After replacing the starter, battery and cables, I think I might have the same problem. My question is could the switch also create a hard start prob.

Define "hard start". There's a BIG difference in the diagnosis between "starter won't crank" and "cranks but won't start".
Nobody has mentioned the neutral safety switch yet. If the starter doesn't crank the engine when you turn the key, be sure the neutral safety switch in good condition and adjusted properly.

Especially when it's cold out, I have to keep the rpm hi until the fuel begins to "flow" on its own

If the fuel wasn't flowing, the engine wouldn't run and you couldn't achieve "hi rpm".

I don't doubt that the vehicle has (solvable) problems, but you might get better advice if you just described--in detail--what the symptoms are.

[cutlass supreme FE3]

Define "hard start". There's a BIG difference in the diagnosis between "starter won't crank" and "cranks but won't start".
Nobody has mentioned the neutral safety switch yet. If the starter doesn't crank the engine when you turn the key, be sure the neutral safety switch in good condition and adjusted properly.



If the fuel wasn't flowing, the engine wouldn't run and you couldn't achieve "hi rpm".

I don't doubt that the vehicle has (solvable) problems, but you might get better advice if you just described--in detail--what the symptoms are.

probably tps or mass air flow

[project 92z]

Ok I found out what my problems were. The single click on the key turn was the ignition switch. The hard start, well that turned out to be the oil pressure sending unit. I also swapped out the fuel pump (original). It was maybe a lil tired and I think the baffel interfered with some power.

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[project 92z]

Ok I found out what my problems were. The single click on the key turn was the ignition switch. The hard start, well that turned out to be the oil pressure sending unit. I also swapped out the fuel pump (original). It was maybe a lil tired and I think the baffel interfered with some power.

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[project 92z]

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[project 92z]

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A buddy of mine said that after the fuel prime then the oil pump took over. Not quite sure how that works but unplugging then replacing the sending unit fixed the problem. Actually the fuel pump for blowing the fuse every time I turned the key.

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[robertisaar]

when the engine is running and oil pressure is above the ~4PSI the switch triggers at, current for the fuel pump is shared between the oil pressure switch and the fuel pump relay.

[Schurkey]

Which is a good indication that there's still something wrong with the fuel pump relay, or relay wire harness.

[padgett]

That's odd, there is a start relay to energize the fuel pump on start. Typically it runs for 2 seconds when you turn the key one then once oil pressure comes up the oil pressure switch energizes the fuel pump.

Usually a long crank happens when the relay fails and the engine does not get fuel until the oil pressure exceeds 4-6 psi. If the pressure senor died it would crank and seem to catch then die.

Finally you said you changed the starter. Was the solenoid changed also ? That is what usually goes "click".

ps when I had dual quads on the SBC in my Sunbird, I had to add a prime button to fill the AFB bowls before cranking. Took considerably longer than 2 seconds.