stalling

[bwawuz02]

well she runs really strong, but for some reason whenever i put the clutch in the car likes to stall. could it just be the idle air control valve not doing it's job? it also seems that when i push on the brake pedal the idle fluctuates a little. it seems to lessen the longer i drive it, but right after starting it she stalls more frequently. what else might it be?

[jmgtp]

Re: stalling

well she runs really strong, but for some reason whenever i put the clutch in the car likes to stall. could it just be the idle air control valve not doing it's job? it also seems that when i push on the brake pedal the idle fluctuates a little. it seems to lessen the longer i drive it, but right after starting it she stalls more frequently. what else might it be?

Stalling when pushing the clutch in = bad news. Signs of a worn thrust bearing I believe. The clutch on the 284 puts a whole lot of force on that first bearing, and as far as I know when it wears, it can allow the crank to move. Which in turn causes the crank position sensor to get out of alignment with the reluctor wheel. Definetly not a good idea to be sitting at a stop light in gear with a 284 (cause the clutch would be disengaged). Bad for throw out bearings and uber bad for the thrust bearing (cause its definetly the greater evil to replace, your lookin at a bottom end rebuild if its toast). Hopefully you luck out and its some sensor or engine management device. But stalling only when the clutch is disengaged definetly is a very bad sign pointing at a worn thrust bearing.

[pontiac92gp]

What about the throttle position sensor ? Or how about possibly EGR to intake clogged with carbon.

I have same kinda problem, and took it to a dealer (YARR!!) and that was the advice they gave me and a bill for $160 ....

[bwawuz02]

okay, but if i put the clutch in then give it a little gas it's fine. it just bounces down to what looks like 500 rpms then back up, and after it has just been started (cold or hot motor, but worse when hot outside) it is more reluctant to stall after the bounce. then after a while of driving it doesn't do it. the car has 146k miles on it, and only grinds into 2nd at 6k+ rpms. they are all highway miles.

it also seems that if i push on the brakes a lil b4 letting the clutch out that it doesn't do it. i'm going to swap out the IAC today and see if anything changes.

[bwawuz02]

forget everything i said before. it stalls whenever it wants to. but due to either the power steering pump, me pushing on the brakes, or voltage. i think it is a combination of some unknown factor and the smaller FFP pulley. cuz when i use the turn signal the idle bounces along to the turn signal. do you guys think that if i tightened the idler pullies down to much that it could cause this kind of problem? the only reason i say this is because it wasn't stalling b4 i changed the t-belt. i swapped out the IAC with no change.

[SappySE107]

Sounds like an electrical problem. How is the alt and battery?

[bwawuz02]

well the alt died on me, and we replaced it with a 1yr old one from the lumi. the lumi would do the same thing, the volt gauge and idle would barely dance to the turn signal after installing the FFP pulley. and at idle when the fans would kick on it would studder, and the volt gauge would flick for a sec. also i noticed when i ran TEC through it yesterday there was the normal white smoke, only it was coming up the heat shield around the egr tube. there's def a hole in the exhaust some where cuz it's a lot louder than the lumi was. but even if it doesn't go all the way down to 500 rpms, the idle still bounces when i put the clutch in, but it bounces more when i put my foot on the brake at the same time as disengaging the clutch.

[pocket-rocket]

That is kinda what the 92 is doing more and more lately. I know the alt is getting ready to take a shit on me because my idle does the same thing, but I have noticed lately that the bearings in the alt are starting to make noise. As far as I know, it is an original alt., and I am going to take the car to the parts store this weekend at the latest for an alt test. I know my battery is good (besides the fact it's an Optima) because I can do work on the car with the stereo going for over an hour at a decent volume and the car will start just fine, like I never had anything running.

[bwawuz02]

i think the alt is fine and that maybe if anything it is the voltage regulator inside the alt, cuz even though it stalls ALL THE TIME, it starts right back up every single time on the first try. it does seem like it gets worse when the actual temp of the motor is higher. i think i might change the knock sensor just for the hell of it.

btw, the upper intake from a 93 auto won't fit on a 91 5spd lower intake becuase one of the little metal sleeves that sticks out is different. also, my 5spd doesn't have a brake booster hose, there's just a little nipple that blocks off the hole on the upper intake.

[pocket-rocket]

I had my alt tested today (in car). It tested OK, not good, but ok (for now *knocks on wood*). Then they did a battery test. It's an Optima, of course it was good, lol. It did have a low charge, even though it starts the car just fine, and only has had trouble starting the car once (when not started in a few months or so), despite having the radio going for 1-2 hours without starting the car (never even sounded like it didn't have enough in reserves to start the car). So the guy said he thought it was the alt, and I do too.

[blk92z34getrag]

My car has the exact same problem with stalling when there's too much electricity being drawn (i.e. headlights on, brakes and turn signal = bog). I think it's a problem with insufficient Alternators. My alt. is brand new, as well as my battery, and both test good. Also new IAC and EGR.

[bwawuz02]

like i said, i think it's the voltage regulator, cuz mine charges the battery just fine, but the dash lights dim when the turn signal flashes on and off, as well as the volt gauge just barely dancing.

[pocket-rocket]

like i said, i think it's the voltage regulator

Which is part of your alt., so basically you need a new alt.

[pocket-rocket]

Ok, alt. is in and I don't have to have the AC, or Defrost on to keep the idle up (charge is ok, but clutch is shot, so the ac only works to idle up the car, not actually turn the compressor) to keep the car running when I come to a stop. The old squeeky alt (bearings) was putting out 14.2 volts, but didn't keep up on the amps.

[HueyZ34]

little change of subject but if the voltage regulator was going out, would that make the battery light come on at high RPMs. j/w