stalling

[Juglenaut]

Going for the river which way, there are to many paths....

This just shows how many things can cause stalling issues.

[Anonymous]

since the injectors are easier to change than the sparkplugs

You're being sarcastic right? Becuz you don't have to pull the upper intake manifold to change plugs...

Not if you have the right assortment of extensions and a swivel on hand. I never pull the plenum to change plugs, unless I am going to take it off for something else. But if he did change the injectors, then he would have to pull the plenum off, and that would be an ideal time to make it easy to change the rear plugs. Might as well do the wires too since most people that don't change the rear plugs don't change the rear wires either.

That's what i was saying

[4spdz34]

sounds like intake gaskets. really really bad ones. have u replaced them since u put the new motor in like i suspected?

[Anonymous]

First of all most of us here change them like once a month cuz we pull that plenum so much anyway.

Secondly I changed mine when i first got the car, and then checked them, and they were fine, but it was still stalling.

Lastly, my motor is brand new and they are not leaking, but it still stalls.

One more thing, how would an intake gasket being bad make a car stall? Wouldn't that just make a rough and high idle?

[pocket-rocket]

It can mess with the computer, which we all know is bad.

[IRRebel5150]

First, most of these injectors fall under a GM technical bulletin sent out back in late '95 early '96, so unless the original owners of these cars either A: never had their cars serviced, or B: lived under a rock, I would find it hard to beleive the injectors have not already been replaced by what y'all are calling '96+ style. I am the Original Owner of one of my cars, bought it brand new in '92, and even IT has the newer injectors in it even though I knew nothing about the bulletin until very recently.

Second, the stalling thing IS also a problem on automatic equipped vehicles as well. One of mine ended up being a slightly plugged cat, the other turned out to be a severe tax on my brain and common sense. It also could have caused another divorce had I been daft enough to get remarried.

Usually on these, the SES light comes on and almost invariably throws up an EGR code #32. This also happened on the one with the convertor plug problem, which is NOT an EGR problem where I went to school, but none the less.

On the second car, I was convinced the IAC was the culprit as it ran fine for a couple days after I removed it and cleaned it thoroughly. Nope, twasn't it. Then cleaning the EGR valve, which when removed showed one sticking solenoid, seemed to be the perp. Again, keep trying. Next I was convinced, correctly in a way, that I had a severe Vacuum leak.

As most of you know, finding a vaccuum leak on these cars is kindof like finding Bin Laden. You can get so close to it, but end up miles away in short order. I ended up pulling the upper plenum, justifying to myself that partly, and hopefully majorily, the problem may be gaskets. It also forced the engine to show me ALL the vacuum lines and potential leaks I otherwise would not be able to condemn. I replaced everything I could see, for the most part, and this stuff was replaced along with the upper and lower gaskets, EGR valve and tube, gaskets, tube, and O2 sensor.

Stalled 2 miles from home just after it warmed up after all this. This is an Automatic car, BTW.

Double checked every single vacuum line in existance, the car had a new IAC and EGRvalve, a New EGR Tube, Cat was fine, Driver was ready to burn it in Nogales, AZ and report it stolen.

Something dawned on me.

EGR's used to be Vacuum Controlled devices, and even being digital still have somewhat of a direct control/effect on that, and thus, the only way the ECM can blame it is through a Vacuum reading of some sort.

An EGR code thrown by the ECM could simply be a Vacuum reading, and the ECM, in a new car in a mushroom environment could be just that. Take a 14 year old car with a computer thinking it's still 14 years ago, whole new ball game. So I started this Vacuum Investigation.

While Vacuum Guages and tools exist, their use is nearly useless given the parameters and limitations concerning various engines, maufacturerers and other logistics. I even restorted to the old WD40 test we used years ago to find vacuum leaks to no avail.

In short, which is already to late, the problem ended up being the Power Brake Booster. Most of you likely have the ABS version, I do not, but I personally never thought to check the thing. Yeah, the car was hard to stop, It was old, like it's owner, never gave it a smidgeon of credit. Another is the Cruise Control box, which while I was replacing- the Power Brake Booster I happened to notice a piece of rubber hanging out of the backside of the silly thing.

I simply removed the Cruise control, and plugged the line, as I never use it anyway. My car brakes a ton better, and thank gawd because not only is the stall seemingly gone, for 2 months, but the car seems to have its old power back, to which my G/F is NOT so much amused by, But I am.

In a nutshell, take nothing for granted. These are old cars, and while it is easy to blame a digital device or the computer itself, in all liklihood, it is a mechanical or material failure. When something Mechanical Fails after this many years, be it even a hose, the ECM is likely to tell you nearly anything. And it may only point you in the right direction.

Ray

[Anonymous]

So you replaced the brake line or the actual booster?

And the cruise control?


Well my car is defiantely not short on power, that is for sure. It does have ABS, and that works fine. The car brakes fine, not good however. I expected a lot more on a 4-wheel disc car with ABS. I use CC a lot so that has to stay.

I recently replaced every vacuum line that runs behidn the plenum, and the brake line, and the IAC. My EGR is removed. This helped a lot(the new IAC), but it didn't fix it. The dealership said it has something to do with my internals(on a brand new engine mind you ).

[IRRebel5150]

On mine it was the actual booster that apparently had a leak in the diaphragm. It was replaced.

[blk92z34getrag]

How did you find the leak in the booster?

What an interesting story, the vacuum lines for my cruise control are all kids of shitty, maybe I'll check them.

And just to add to the search for the stalling problem... I've replaced...
IAC
EGR
O2
Cat. (It blew a few months after Ibought the car)
Plenum and lower intake gaskets
Brake Booster hose
Oil distribution cap hose (under the lower intake)
all vacuum lines for that matter
Geez what else... it's all in my cardomain... and it still stalls occasionally, although it's much less frequent than it was a year and a half ago.

I wonder if these cars stalled during test drives back in the day when they were fresh from Canada.

[pocket-rocket]

I know this has nothing to do with our cars, but a Prelude I had (an 83 I think) had a bad diaphram in the booster. It stopped fine, but when the master cylinder started to go, sometimes when I would hit the brakes, the tail of the car would smoke something horrible, lol.

[Anonymous]

There has been widespread thought that it is the injectors, but I have yet to put the 96s in mine. If someone wants to take the plenum off for me then I'd do it...

[blk92z34getrag]

Because the plenum takes more than 45 minutes to take off?

And don't you have to swap the fuel rail too?

[Anonymous]

Every time I remove the plenum I fuck something up and it ends of taking a couple days and a couple hundred bucks to fix.

No, the 96 injectors will work just fine with my old rail. I'm using just the injectors, not the rail, FPR, or anything else.

[93RegalGS]

My Cutlass used to stall all the time on me in stop and go traffic. When I changed to synthetic oil the stalling stopped.

[blk92z34getrag]

No, the 96 injectors will work just fine with my old rail. I'm using just the injectors, not the rail, FPR, or anything else.

Oh, I was under the impression that you had to swap the fuel rail with the new injectors... Oh man now I'm gonna go hunting for some 96+ injectors.

My Cutlass used to stall all the time on me in stop and go traffic. When I changed to synthetic oil the stalling stopped.

My first two oil changes on my car were synthetic, and those caused my crankshaft main seal to leak, I fixed that and started using synthetic blend, didn't change anything, I use normal 5W30 Valvoline now and haven't had any problems.