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  • Question : power steering line replacment

    how bad is this on the 92 z34 with automatic tranny?

    Looks like its going to be a nightmare, Im not to sure what hose is leaking yet, or if its the rack, But im praying its a hose.


    How bad is it? Anyone have any pictures or any info on it?


    Thanks

  • #2
    No pics, and it's been a long time, but lowering the rear of the subframe a couple inches will help out a lot. Don't go over 2 inches though since the steering coupling will come apart and it can be a pain to put back together.
    -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
    91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
    92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
    94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
    Originally posted by Jay Leno
    Tires are cheap clutches...

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Rabbi View Post
      how bad is this on the 92 z34 with automatic tranny?

      Looks like its going to be a nightmare. I'm not to sure what hose is leaking yet, or if its the rack, But I'm praying it is a hose.


      How bad is it? Anyone have any pictures or any info on it?


      Thanks
      This is generic... but his dye technique may help pinpoint the troubling leak:

      Power steering hose replacement. Power steering leak. How to find power steering leak in your car DIY with Scotty Kilmer. How to replace power steering hose....
      Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 01-15-2011, 01:23 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        Since it's on a W body, I'm 75% (if not higher) convinced it's the power steering pressure hose. It's a common problem, like the brakes in the first gens.
        -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
        91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
        92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
        94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
        Originally posted by Jay Leno
        Tires are cheap clutches...

        Comment


        • #5
          anyone happen to have a replacement part number for the high pressure line?

          Comment


          • #6


            From rockauto.com...

            ACDELCO Part # 36P35224 More Information About this Part {#88998618}
            [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles manufactured for the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles manufactured for the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] HOSE,P/S GR INL DUPLICATE USAGE IN SELL DOWN [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 1 Remaining)

            $13.53
            Add to Cart
            EDELMANN Part # 91708 More Information About this Part Pressure Line Assembly; 16mm Male O-Ring x 18mm Male O-Ring x 50 1/4"
            [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles manufactured for the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles manufactured for the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.]

            Part Image
            Choose:
            $13.56
            Add to Cart See Options at Left
            GATES Part # 366430 More Information About this Part Pressure Line Assembly; 16mm Male O-Ring x 18mm Male O-Ring x 50 1/4"
            [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles manufactured for the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles manufactured for the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.]

            Part Image
            $29.79
            Add to Cart
            ACDELCO Part # 36366430 More Information About this Part {#19147748}
            [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles manufactured for the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles manufactured for the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] HOSE,P/S GR INL -; PRESSURE; 4 DOORS; P.S. HOSE ASSEMBLY
            [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles manufactured for the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles manufactured for the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] HOSE,P/S GR INL -; PRESSURE; 2 DOORS; P.S. HOSE ASSEMBLY

            Part Image
            * Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 5 business days
            $40.79
            -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
            91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
            92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
            94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
            Originally posted by Jay Leno
            Tires are cheap clutches...

            Comment


            • #7
              When mine leaked, it was the return hose.

              The clamps cause the hose to cold-flow; once the rubber is distorted (squeezed out from under the clamp) there's little actual clamping force on the hose. Net result: hose popped off the barbed fitting and all the fluid went on the ground.

              I'm told this happens more often in cold weather due to the fluid getting over-cooled in the "p/s cooler"; the fluid gets cold enough to thicken and not flow so well. Then the added pressure required to move the fluid causes the hose to slip off the barbed fitting.

              If that's the problem, the solution is simple: replace the hose, torque the clamps appropriately, and install fresh PS fluid. I did it without dropping the cradle. Not all that bad a job, actually. Be sure you're using genuine PS return hose, not common and cheap fuel hose. Fuel hose won't take the temperature, and it may or may not have a chemical compatibility issue with PS fluid.

              Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that the problem CAN'T be the pressure hose...just that in my case it wasn't.
              ^ some people may call this guy an asshole at times, but he isn't wrong very often -- Robert

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Schurkey View Post
                When mine leaked, it was the return hose.

                The clamps cause the hose to cold-flow; once the rubber is distorted (squeezed out from under the clamp) there's little actual clamping force on the hose. Net result: hose popped off the barbed fitting and all the fluid went on the ground.

                I'm told this happens more often in cold weather due to the fluid getting over-cooled in the "p/s cooler"; the fluid gets cold enough to thicken and not flow so well. Then the added pressure required to move the fluid causes the hose to slip off the barbed fitting.

                If that's the problem, the solution is simple: replace the hose, torque the clamps appropriately, and install fresh PS fluid. I did it without dropping the cradle. Not all that bad a job, actually. Be sure you're using genuine PS return hose, not common and cheap fuel hose. Fuel hose won't take the temperature, and it may or may not have a chemical compatibility issue with PS fluid.

                Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that the problem CAN'T be the pressure hose...just that in my case it wasn't.
                That's why I didn't say 99% chance, lol. I've had my return pop off as well.
                -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                Originally posted by Jay Leno
                Tires are cheap clutches...

                Comment


                • #9
                  ill get a write up on replacement of both lines for you off of all data tomarrow while im at school and then ill pm them to you

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    any word on that writeup bro ?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Rabbi View Post
                      any word on that writeup bro ?
                      havent been at school had a death in the family im goin back today and will look it up

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        ok here is the write up step by step on how to replace the high pressure line

                        Tools Required:
                        J28467-A Engine Support Fixture
                        J28467-90 Adapters
                        J36462 Adapter Leg

                        Remove or Disconnect



                        Air cleaner and duct assembly.
                        Coolant recovery reservoir.
                        Serpentine drive belt. NOTICE: Siphon power steering fluid from reservoir before disconnecting lines to avoid spilling fluid on secondary timing belt cover. Use shop rags when disconnecting lines to insure any remaining fluid does NOT contact secondary timing belt cover. Power steering fluid can damage the secondary timing belt.
                        Both high pressure and return pipes from power steering pump.
                        Power steering lines clamp from front cover.
                        Install J 28467-A, J 28467-90 and J 36462.
                        Raise vehicle and suitably support.
                        Left and right front wheel and tire assembly.
                        Loosen right side engine splash shield.
                        Both left and right sides tie rod nuts and tie rods from steering knuckles.
                        Exhaust pipe and catalytic converter assembly. CAUTION: Failure to disconnect intermediate shaft from rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
                        Intermediate steering shaft pinch bolt at steering gear.
                        Electrical connection from steering gear pressure switch.
                        Support rear of frame assembly using jackstand.
                        Both rear frame bolts.
                        Lower rear of frame 76.2 mm (3 inches) .
                        Steering gear heat shield.
                        Power steering lines clamp from steering gear assembly.
                        Both high pressure and return lines from steering gear.
                        High pressure line from vehicle.
                        Install or Connect



                        High pressure line in position.
                        Both high pressure and return lines to steering gear.
                        Line clamp and lines to steering gear assembly.
                        Steering gear heat shield and screws. Tighten
                        Screws to 6 N.m (54 lb. in.) .
                        Raise frame assembly and align steering gear stub shaft to intermediate shaft.
                        Both frame bolts.
                        Remove jackstand.
                        Electrical connection to steering gear pressure switch. CAUTION: When installing the intermediate shaft make sure the shaft is seated prior to pinch bolt installation. If the pinch bolt is inserted into the coupling before shaft installation, the two mating shafts may disengage.
                        Intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt. Tighten
                        Bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb. ft.) .
                        Exhaust pipe and converter assembly.
                        Both tie rod ends and nuts to steering knuckles.
                        Tighten right side engine splash shield.
                        Both right and left front wheel and tire
                        Lower vehicle.
                        Remove J 28467-A, J 28467-90 and J 36462.
                        Power steering lines clamp to front cover.
                        Both high pressure and return pipes to pump.
                        Serpentine drive belt.
                        Coolant recovery reservoir.
                        Air cleaner and duct assembly. Adjust
                        Bleed power steering system.
                        Inspect


                        For leaks.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks!

                          That sounds pretty nasty
                          Hope it goes well, doing it this weekend.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Rabbi View Post
                            Thanks!

                            That sounds pretty nasty
                            Hope it goes well, doing it this weekend.
                            this is straight from alldata and what would be done at a shop instead of the stands you can jack your car up in the front and back on 2 sets of jack on a pretty high setting and then use another set of jackstands or a small floor jack to hold the cradle i also suggest removing the u.i.m. and rear spark plug wires and vacume hoses to prevent damage.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Prob too late to help the OP, but mine n my 91 was the HP line that hooks up to top of power steering pump. On my car took the line for the 3.1 & not the one called for the 3.4. COuld be due to being first year model???

                              I was able with help from another doing feeding & twisting from the top while I was underneath able to do it w/o dropping the sub or removing all the other stuff. I did remove the air cleaner & I went in from the top following the cross over pipe. You can see the top of the rack where everything bolts in. Not a lot of room to work & long arms are a plus. Took a 18mm open end wrench & then cut the boxed end portion off so the open was a little below 6 inches long. This gave me enough room to turn the nut just a little at a time from the top.

                              Once I got it disconnected from the rack & the power sterring pump, had my helper pull out from top while I watched it from underneath to help & watch the route it took. Then had helper start feeding new line while I use long needle nose pliers & a rod to help guide the hose where it needed to go.

                              THis is the point where I learned a hard lesson. With help from underneath & me starting nut on top of rack got it on & tighten up. SO all that was left was the easy job of attaching to the power steerting pump. However much to my horror I found out the hose was the wrong one. So I had to take it off & go back to the parts store & get one for a 3.1.

                              Everytime I see that hacked up 18mm it reminds me to check the parts before I start the install.

                              Comment

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