o ring sealant

[pocket-rocket]

Actually, if you read my post, I say tilt your head, meaning the one above your shoulders, not one of the ones in your engine bay, lol. Either way, there is more then I thought before going out and taking the pic to grind off. I think you could get just under 1/4" off before having problems, which is 1/4" that would help out a lot in this situation. Even though, I wasn't trying to insult you. I'm trying to educate you, lol.

Oh yeah, respect the keg! I get to respect about 8 beers since I don't work tomorrow, so

[Anonymous]

haha, I thought tilt your head, becuz it is a cylinder head in my possession :P

Either way, I shall respect the almighty keg

[pocket-rocket]

lol. Those heads in the pic are the stock heads off of the 92. Wanna know why they aren't on the 92 and the 92 is driving around? Pay me $100 to find out, lol. If you want to save yourself $100 think about it for a minute. Wait a second, I need money, don't think about it!

[RidgeRunner]

Oooh, ooh, I know why!

[bud36light]

Man its a three day weekend dude. If the motors got alot of miles on it you NEED to change the timing belt. Which means its just a few more bolts to take the rear head off and fix both the oil leaks along with doing regular timing belt maintenance. Ijust went thru this exact deal and it cost me about $200. Remember this shit is basically schedualled maintenance on these cars. Might as well fix it right. If you need help somebody here will walk you thru as several of us have gotten pretty good at tearing the top end off of the DOHC.

[pocket-rocket]

Yeah, I had the heads off and back on in the 92 in a 2 day weekend. I just got my air compressor hooked up (need to install electric in the garage completely, not just 220v), and wasn't used to using air tools on a car, so I used mostly hand tools, lol. IIRC, the car was started up before 3pm Sunday, and I had to let it cool down Friday from driving it to work I guess I could say I am decent at it then, lol.

[Dave's Z-34]

Only about 18 hours for me to fix the the damn distributor hole leak . That included fishing an intake bolt that fell into the top of the intake with a magnet. Had visions of having to do the entire teardown all over again, at 2:30 am to boot, grrrrrrrr........

I'm left with a couple questions though. There is a more pronounced clicking, ticking noise than before. I think its the injectors as I didn't have any new o-rings. I greased them and they looked ok, installed ok also. Is this anything normal? The car runs absolutely fantastic now and isn't leaking at all, but should I be concerned about this?

I also tore the new intake gasket, this was around 1:00 am!!!!grrrrr. I repaired it with Permatex ultra copper, the same stuff I used to fix the o-ring and valve cover leak. Do you guys think this will hold together the intake gasket??

Lastly. The 3/8 hose on the other side of the engine from the distributor hole was torn. What was this damn thing for? I used hose that meets SAE spec 30R7 & RMA class B. Will this hose be sufficient? If I can add any helpful hints. Don't cut the length shorter than the original as I did. I bet I restled clamping the bitch for 1-1/2 hours last night.

Leaks are fixed, new plugs and wires have my car running better than it ever has. The oil pan gasket was a waste of time but at least it's something that shouldn't bother me ever. I've alot more experience and confidence ripping into the engine, and am actually planning on doing the timing belt on my own in the next few months.

[pocket-rocket]

That hose on the other end of the dist. plug is part of the PCV system. If you listened to the engine with the cover that says "twin dual cam" off of the engine, the injectors will sound louder since the cover helps baffle the noise from them. It could have just been a lifter, which these engines are plagued with if the conditions are right, which is all the time it seems like.

[your_I.D.]

Sealant update!

The best product to use, is an anorobic sealer. (it drys when confined) Loctite "Gasket Eliminator 510" http://www.loctite.us/int_henkel/loc...d=114&layout=3 Product has a temperature range to 400°F with excellent solvent and chemical resistance. Makes or dresses gaskets in rigid assemblies. Eliminates gasket compression set.

Typical Applications
Seals close fitting joints between rigid metal faces and flanges. Particularly suited where maximum temperature and chemical resistance is required.

Ex GM tech, been there done that.