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After a cold start car runs fine,now when heated up and driven for over a hour and start again she bogs and stutter,drive it with moderate gas pedal pressure it takes a bit to get going then it runs fine.Hopes this makes sense to u all its the only way i can describe it.Iam thinking maybe clog fuel filter or cat,Or dirty injectors.One thing i noticed is about a month ago tried a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in before a fill up then started havin this issue about 3 tankfulls after?
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any thought guys -
perhaps an ignition module?Jesse M.
3x 1990 Turbo Grand Prix
1987 Monte Carlo SS AerocoupeComment
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do u mean one of the coils and if that is there a way to test themOriginally posted by jman093 View PostComment
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Check fuel pressure, when the pump gets hot if its on the way out it will cause it to "BOG". Also do a fuel filter (could be what caused the pump to fail if that is the problem). do you have any Check engine lights?
SShane "RedZMonte"
2004 Corvette Z06 Commemorative Edition -VIRGIN
1995 Monte Carlo Z34 14.38@101mph, 331hp/355tq
-Turbonetics T04E Super 60 Turbo, 2.5" Borla Catback, OBDII, 42.5# Injectors
2004 Subaru WRX STI -Lightly Modded (SOLD)
1994 Lumina Z34 -VIRGIN (SOLD)
1992 Lumina Z34-VIRGIN (RIP)
1992 L67 Lumina Z34 (SOLD)
1990 Turbo Grand Prix (SOLD)Comment
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Tried to change the fuel filter but the nut is rusted on dont want to break the line have sprayed it down with pb blaster will try in a few days,also how to check fuel pressure and how much is needed have a vacuam gage it shoud work if i know where to hook it up,where is the fuel pressure releif valve?.No dummy lights coming onOriginally posted by RedZMonte View PostComment
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This is fuel injected, your looking at 38+
old school vacuum gage most likely will not have capability to read that. there is a screw on black cap near power steering pump for a test port. I'd agree with red, sounds like fuel problem. Either a bad check valve in the fuel pump and it lets the fuel drain back or bad regulator letting the hot engine boil off the fuel in the rail. May even have a bad/leaking injector that only sticks open when hot. Go borrow a fuel pressure test gage for free from auto zone or advance, heat her up, hook it up, key on, take reading. Let it sit for 5 min with key on. If pressure reading drops more then 5 lbs in 5 mins, you have an internal leak somewhere, reg, injector, and/or pump. Post readings and we can go from there.sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.Comment
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FWIW, I agree with the fuel problem diagnosis,, both times my Z34 did things like that it was a bad FPR. Last time it would start and run fine,,,, UNTIL you shut it off.. Let it cool for a good while and it would start back up...
Here's a link to the testing procedure,,, according to Haynes anyway....
Good luck with this!!
Tom...Last edited by walterdude; 08-16-2010, 11:40 PM.Comment
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Thanks Guys for your inputs,By the way the car in question is a 95 lumina,i found a releif valve by the upper intake on the passenger side is that the one im lookin for?,and how can i determine if it is the reg,injector or bad pump if pressure drops.Originally posted by 95SleeperAcheiva View PostComment
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look for extreme pulsing with it ideling warm ,by watchign the gauge, anything over a 2psi swing means its a bad reg,, if it bleeds down real quick can be the fuel pump or Regulator, but id bet its the pump/ filter, you can buy 10 feet of new line for around 10$, because if the filter nuts that badly corroded you may just as well plan on replacing the whole pressure line assembly+ sending unit, but yeah pump sounds bad, my 94 cav did the exact same thing, replaced the reg, Inj etc etc.. fuel pump = bingo
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