Power Steering High Pressue Line Replacement

[Test4echo]

Hi Guys,

92 Z34 Lumina

Need to replace High pressure line due to the fact the mechanic I took it to, to replace the alternator, F-ed up my line moving it out of the way.
He won't admit it, but, I had no troubles till he worked on it.
So, he then proceded to try and convince me I need a new Rack as well.
Once again, never had signs of leaks or problems with the rack.
750+ bucks for that. Ya right.

All it is a leak in the bottom rubber portion of the High pressure line. I can see it.

I seem to recall there was an Article on V60 about the procedure for replacing the line but I can't seem to find it now.
Anyone have any Idea the best way to go about replacing this line?

Please?

test,

[jmgtp]

It's pretty straight forward to replace, although cars with the auto trans may have more difficulty accessing the line where it bolts into the rack. The top bolt holding the alternator in place has a small stud coming out of it and a 10mm nut is used to secure the PS lines. The high pressure line unscrews from the pump with a 16mm wrench. I don't recall the wrench size where it threads into the rack, just be very careful not to round it off with the wrong size wrench. I don't remember exactly what they are called but there are wrenches that the opened end has a smaller opening. It's meant to clear the tube through the opening but since the opening is smaller it has more bite and less risk of rounding off... anyways that would be a safer choice. I just pulled mine out the top once all the connections were loose. I fed the new line down from the top - was fairly simple, took about 20-30 minutes, but I am not sure how cramped things would be with the auto trans hoggin up extra workspace. The replacement line is ~$35.

[heza]

yup, i have to do the same thing with my '96 GTP. i think ill wait until i need to change out my upper intake gaskets or spark plugs.

[quantum110]

I don't remember exactly what they are called but there are wrenches that the opened end has a smaller opening. It's meant to clear the tube through the opening but since the opening is smaller it has more bite and less risk of rounding off...

Line Wrenches

[Lyle's GTP]

Crows foot.

Lyle

[Mitch DOHC]

when i replaced my high preasure line i did it when i had my trans out this made it really easy but if u loosen the cradel boltes and pick the boddy up some with a jack it makes it much easer to get to the fitting on the rack....... i actually couldent get ming lose and i had to cut the pipe with a cutoff weel and then put a scoket on it

[Anonymous]

when i replaced my high preasure line i did it when i had my trans out this made it really easy but if u loosen the cradel boltes and pick the boddy up some with a jack it makes it much easer to get to the fitting on the rack....... i actually couldent get ming lose and i had to cut the pipe with a cutoff weel and then put a scoket on it

Now I also did mine with a 5-speed car FYI

But mine was really easy. I had a friend thread it down and I figured out where exactly the twists and bends went from underneath. The hardest part was connecting them, it is a tight fit with the wrench.

[pocket-rocket]

when i replaced my high preasure line i did it when i had my trans out this made it really easy but if u loosen the cradel boltes and pick the boddy up some with a jack it makes it much easer to get to the fitting on the rack....... i actually couldent get ming lose and i had to cut the pipe with a cutoff weel and then put a scoket on it

If you do loosen cradle bolts, I would not drop the subframe more then 2" (or was it 2 1/2, jmgtp?). Anyways, if you drop it more then that, it will pull the linkage apart that comes down from the steering column that goes to the rack. And we all know steering=good, lol. BTW, I speak from experience on this subject too, lol.

[jmgtp]

when i replaced my high preasure line i did it when i had my trans out this made it really easy but if u loosen the cradel boltes and pick the boddy up some with a jack it makes it much easer to get to the fitting on the rack....... i actually couldent get ming lose and i had to cut the pipe with a cutoff weel and then put a scoket on it

If you do loosen cradle bolts, I would not drop the subframe more then 2" (or was it 2 1/2, jmgtp?). Anyways, if you drop it more then that, it will pull the linkage apart that comes down from the steering column that goes to the rack. And we all know steering=good, lol. BTW, I speak from experience on this subject too, lol.

It's not much! I speak from the same experience, although not when doing the PS line, but even 2" seems like a stretch.

[Lyle's GTP]

When I changed mine on my auto, I never did anything like that. I found that removing the air box and intake piping was the best way. You can get your hand in over the tranny there. Plus reinstalling required some work form underneath. Removal was a bitch too. Cause the fitting was tight as fuck. So I cut the steel line off then put a socket with about 3 ft of extension and a swivel from behind the plenum. I hit it with a 1/2" impact, that busted it loose. After that bullshit reinstalling was walk in the park. The best advice would be jack the car up as high as you can to work on it. Plus, never try to do any work unless it's cold.

Lyle

[Anonymous]

The auto must make it a lot harder than. I did the entire job from underneath, and used a wrench. I had enough room, but it was tight. I wish I had some experience with the auto so I would be some more help.

Maybe I should use this as an excuse for my dad to buy one for me

[Lyle's GTP]

I guess it's probably harder. The only reason I gave up from underneath was that I couldn't get any torque on a wrench. from up top I could actually pull on the wrench and push to tighten. From the bottom I only had wrist strength. Plus when it came down to cutting I had to go from the top.

Lyle

[Test4echo]

I was thinking actually of going in the wheel well.
Take the shields off, take the rotor off, maybe pull the axle out.
I figure if they can get the alternator out that way, I should be able to get to the PS Line there as well.
If I'm not mistaken, the rack connection is not that far from the Alternator.
Also, I belive the alternator has a bolt on clip to hold the High Pressure and return lines for PS lines I'll have to take out as well.

You guys are awesome!!!!
I'm going to document everything I do with a G4 Digital camera and maybe some video.
Maybe help out someone.
Thanks for the help,

test

[Anonymous]

Also, I belive the alternator has a bolt on clip to hold the High Pressure and return lines for PS lines I'll have to take out as well.

You are correct. It is a small clip holdi ng the lines, and it is held by a nut that goes over the top stud that holds the alt. I get it from up top, it should be a 10mm.

I would not suggest going from thw wheel well, that sounds like you might be going too far into the car for a job that can be done easier. That is a lot of work in undoing and redoing to me. Just thread it down from the top, have a buddy below pulling it. Get it routed in the approximate spot, and figure otu a way to tighten it. I think we may be making a mountain out of a mole hill here.

[Test4echo]

Aaron,

Its not such a problem getting the new Hose in from the top.
It getting the nut off where the hose and rack meet up.
Theres not much room, and its hard to get any kind of torque on a wrench from the top or bottom.

Well parts should be in this afternoon, we'll see how it goes.
I will be trying every possible location first.
From the top, bottom and If I have to side.

test