Temp Gauge?

[RedZMonte]

OK so now the intake swap is done, i started the car and when it starts to warm up it just keeps climbing. New T-stat New Temp sender (1 wire sensor that goes into head). bled the system and getting solid stream of coolant out of the bleeder on the t-stat housing. Replaced the t-stat with another new t-stat and same thing happens, starts to warm up and keeps climbing until its all the way hot on the gauge.... Now everything feels like its the right temp, no boiling coolant, nothing scolding hot, kinda seems like it always has just that the gauge is reading HOT and the "HOT" light comes on...

Now the question is, do i have a bad "Temp sending unit" (1 wire sensor that screws in to the drivers side of the front head) or do i have another problem like Air bubble in the head by the sensor or what do you think? I bought another one from checker to try and swap it out but feeling kinda lazy right now and don't feel like making a huge mess on the floor.

S

[Weatheralls Auto]

Could be air at sender? or possibly bad or incorrect sender?

Do you have an infared thermometer to check the actual temp?

Also besure you have connectors hooked correctly, I have seen (not this exact setup) where someone plugged a single wire O2s to the temp sender and sender to the O2s.

[robertisaar]

it's been a while since i looked at it, but the temp sender uses a different connector, IIRC.

[RedZMonte]

It is most definatly hooked into the correct wire.. here is the one i got.

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=BOR&MfrPartNumber=WT3007&PartType=906&PTSet=A

and its listed to be correct for my car

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductGuideEngines.aspx?MfrCode=BOR&MfrPartNumber=WT3007&Make=Chevrolet&Model=Monte+Carlo&Begin=1995&End=1997

I did fill the heads and LIM up before i put the t-stat back in.

S

[Weatheralls Auto]

Well there is only 2 generally possiblities

Engine overheating ->

• Check with Inferred Thermometer

Gauge reading incorrectly ->

• Unplug sender when reading high, see it changes
• Use a signal generator to check if it is the sender or Gauge/wires to gauge
• Measure resistance of sender cold warm & hot.

[pocket-rocket]

I always drill a small hole as far to the edge of a t-stat as I can and put it at the top of the hole to help bleed air. I've also been told higher than idle RPMs also help purge air if it is an air bubble problem. Maybe take it out for a spin to warm it up (but stay close to home) or hold it around 3k for a short bit after it gets up to operating temp.

I do like planethax's ideas of the infrared thermometer and unplugging the sensor though.

Do you have a scan tool or anything that can tell you what temp coolant the ECM is seeing? That should tell you if it is indeed overheating.

[RedZMonte]

im gunna have one of my tech friends look at it.. I also got a nother sender i will swap and see if it was a bad sender... I actually got a lap top on its way and also my DHP should be here any day now.

I did take it out and romp on it a few miles till it heated up and bled it a couple more times... doesn't seem to help...

I did feel the engine (know its not an exact science) it cool, the radiator is cool, rad. cap is cool, coolant is warm but not hot and one fan sometime both are coming on....

S

[Schurkey]

getting solid stream of coolant out of the bleeder on the t-stat housing.

There's more than one bleeder. What happens at the other bleeder?

[RedZMonte]

one bleeder is on the T-stat housing... pisses coolant stream
other bleader is on my heater core line (by brake Res) and it pisses solid stream of coolant also..

Unless there is another bleeder im missing?

[tinindian95]

one bleeder is on the T-stat housing... pisses coolant stream
other bleader is on my heater core line (by brake Res) and it pisses solid stream of coolant also..

Unless there is another bleeder im missing?

Nope, those are the only two bleeders.