Reassembling my engine and I seem to have misplaced one of the dowels that goes into the block to line up the cylinder head. I used a magnet to fish around down in the water passage just to be sure it wasn't in there. I can't find a new dowel quickly locally. My plan is to cut the head off one of the old head bolts and use it as a dowel/guide to line the head back up when installing. Will the alignment be perfect or close enough to perfect? Anyone see any issue with doing it this way?
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Lost a block/cylinder head Dowel
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It could still be off a little bit. The dowel not only holds the head in place but the gasket as well, and the gasket needs to line up perfectly with the cylinders. You may try looking at a Bumper to Bumper store if they are near you or possibly a NAPA. If memory serves, it's teh same dowel as a SB Chevy V8.I may own a GTO now, but I'm still a 60V6er at heart.
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I mis Bumper to Bumper so much they are the best. Then can get you any part next day you would ever want.
96 Z34 3.4 SC DOHC Getrag, 284 5sd manual transmission, stage 3spec clutch, 97 engine, 97 pcm, S3 intercooler 1 of 1 Roots SC LQ1 in the world 8.5 psi.
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it does... but I think it will leave some play.
Guess I'll have to track down a new dowel. I went to the two major parts stores tonight and they both said go to the dealer. I'll have to try a NAPA tomorrow.1991 Grand Prix GTP LX9swap/Getrag 284 --- SOLD =(
1994 Corvette LT1/ZF6
2006 Dodge Dakota 4x4 3.7/42RLE
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Dowel Resolved - New Question...
I went to a NAPA and they suggested to go to a machine shop as well, but that late in the day they are closed. Then I went to the garage, thought about it for a few minutes, looked at the old headgasket and sure enough there it was! I'm more relieved that it isn't in the water jacket!
Since I didn't want to start a new thread, I'll add this question here, and rename this thread if possible...
I think I made a stupid mistake. When I had everything apart I threaded the bolts for the engine lift bracket into the rear head so I would not misplace them. When I put it all back together I forgot all about them and installed the rear head with the bolts still threaded into it. I don't think I'll have the clearance between the head and the timing cover to get the bolts out to install the lift bracket. Actually, I'm pretty sure I won't since I believe the bolts go through the timing cover, through the bracket, and thread into the head. Can anyone verify this? (My car is not on site with me and I'd like to pick up a new set of headbolts without making the drive to the garage to know for sure if I'll need to pull the rear head again). Looks like that is going to be a $30 mistake for new headbolts.1991 Grand Prix GTP LX9swap/Getrag 284 --- SOLD =(
1994 Corvette LT1/ZF6
2006 Dodge Dakota 4x4 3.7/42RLE
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If memory serves, the bolt going from the lift bracket ot the head does go through the timing cover, but does not clamp down on the timing cover. The hole in the timing cover is big enough for the bolt and a socket to turn it in. You should be able to remove the brack and the bolt before putting the timing cover on. And even if not, you should not have a problem.I may own a GTO now, but I'm still a 60V6er at heart.
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Well... it was my memory that failed me!
The bolts I had in the head were for the timing belt tensioner bracket. And there is a gaping hole in the timing cover that is the shape of the bracket so the bolts were no problem whatsoever to remove.
The bolt for the engine lift bracket was not in the head but I think you are right that it goes through the timing cover but does not torque down on it.
I'm SO close to firing this thing up. I can't track down a set of exhaust manifold studs locally! Rockauto sent me the wrong ones and the major parts stores can't get them. I'm going to try Napa today.
Does anyone know if the part number for Rapid Fire #8s changed? The store has Rapid Fire #8G. What the heck is the G part? Their computer is also indicating Rapid Fire #12 for the dohc, which I'm certain they are wrong and have the 3.1/3.4 part numbers confused. I may clean and reuse the old ones. They are not worn or that old, I just wanted shiny new plugs to match my shiny new heads.1991 Grand Prix GTP LX9swap/Getrag 284 --- SOLD =(
1994 Corvette LT1/ZF6
2006 Dodge Dakota 4x4 3.7/42RLE
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I found some dowel pins...but after re-reading your additional post, I realized you solved the problem. Tried to delete this, but I could find no "delete" feature in edit mode.
Originally posted by jmgtp View PostReassembling my engine and I seem to have misplaced one of the dowels that goes into the block to line up the cylinder head. I used a magnet to fish around down in the water passage just to be sure it wasn't in there. I can't find a new dowel quickly locally. My plan is to cut the head off one of the old head bolts and use it as a dowel/guide to line the head back up when installing. Will the alignment be perfect or close enough to perfect? Anyone see any issue with doing it this way?Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 03-19-2009, 12:09 AM.
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Well thanks for checking anyway.
I'm not done yet, but did reach the point where I could start it up and I couldnt resist. Fired right up and sounds healthy!1991 Grand Prix GTP LX9swap/Getrag 284 --- SOLD =(
1994 Corvette LT1/ZF6
2006 Dodge Dakota 4x4 3.7/42RLE
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I think I remember seeing where someone said the #8's were a bit on the cold side for the DOHC, but I can't say for certain. I would have the store pull the #8s and #12s and compare threads/thread depth. The computer should be telling them the right plugs with the right heat range for NA engines.
Now that I just looked it up, acdelco.com and advanceautoparts.com are both showing #12s as well. Makes me wonder why I have been using #8s for all these years now, lol.-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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