Z34 Keeps dying

[LifefulDeath]

Well, the car did die while we were scanning it. No surg or chugging. Just idle and dead... It gave the same EGR code. He did clear it before it died and after gave the same code. It died again today so there's a fresh code there. I thought I fixed all the broke vacuum lines but I may have missed something (I wouldn't doubt it). The fuel system is alright. Just cleaned it about a month ago. I replaced the IAC thinking that was it orignally but it didn't help any. Plugs and wires are new.

Thanx again 55trucker. You've been a big help through my little mess. lol

[55trucker]

It would seem that you definitely have an EGR issue seeing as a code keeps setting. If one or all of the pintles are stuck open at all time that will upset the idle mixture & also cause a *surge* situation when at speed. At idle there should be none or next to no EGR flow. You might want to remove the EGR and clean out all of the passages on the bottom (wire brush & mild solvent), also clean out the intake manifold passage & as well the feed tube from the rear exhaust manifold, you'll need a fresh pair of EGR gaskets as well to complete the work. If the EGR has failed then you'll need a good replacement. Happy to help....

[LifefulDeath]

Well another shop yesterday told me they couldn't figure it out. I drove the car home and opened the hood. Just checking; but I found a vacuum line unhooked lol. I hooked it back up and clamped it, since it kept falling out. It was the one from the intake flex tube to the T fitting behind the EGR valve. Thing is, it ran worse when I hooked it up...

[LifefulDeath]

Feeling like a real idiot now...

I never noticed the split vac line on the cruise servo. No one else did either though lol. I just patched it. Drove around for an hour or 2. Car drives a lot better but it still died.

Reading up on it; I'm back to the vacuum leaks. Just can't find it.

BTW, the heater controls and cruise control haven't worked since I bought it. My bad

Anyone got the vacuum diagrams?

[55trucker]

The heater A/C controls are electric over vacuum. There is a vacuum solenoid box that is mounted on top of the blower motor housing assembly. If that box has failed you will not be able to move the doors in the heater assembly. There is also a vacuum tank that is a reserve (keeps vacuum to the controls under full throttle when engine vacuum is low) that is in front of the drivers side front wheel (hidden) it has a vacuum line feeding it. If the tank has cracked open or the vacuum line is damaged then you can lose vacuum there as well.

[LifefulDeath]

Hey man. What it the piece next to the thermostat housing? Today I pulled the battery and air box and noticed dried up crusty coolant on it and on the cross over pipe.

Couldn't find anything wrong with the vacuum reserve either. Lots of moisture in the exhaust though. This car just has a million and one problems...

[55trucker]

Not quite sure which item you're referring to.....the heater core return pipe/hose?......or the bypass pipe that leads around to the far side of the forward head?

[LifefulDeath]

Heater return! Thank you. lol

[55trucker]

Are you seeing coolant/corrosion around the threads on the adapter that thread into the lower intake or from the *seal* that the pipe is secured into the adapter by? If the *crust* is from the seal you might want to take a closer look at the seal...it's designed to allow you to turn the adapter to screw into the manifold while the pipe remains stationary but sealed to the adapter.

[LifefulDeath]

lol Changed out the throttle position sensor. The old one was pretty worn. Car drives great, but the brakes are setting off the SES light. Vacuum lines again, maybe.