wont start

[phantomgreen]

1993 3.4 dohc: Just did the 6/6 timing mod, changed plugs and wires. When I got the car all put back together I had forgot to connect egr to intake, so jumped the dead batter and the car started and idled high of course. Turned off car, attatched egr, and now the car wont start. White smoke from TB, thinking its flooded or wires arent routed correctly. Ill resume tomorrow in the daylight. Can you guys think of any causes of this? Thanks
CAM

[phantomgreen]

Anybody? Double checked firing order, it is correct. Took out the plugs and looks as though engine is flooded. When i attempt to start the car it turns over but wont start and fire shoots from TB. Assuming its just flooded, will I need to remove spark plugs and let fuel evaporate, or is there a "clear flood mode" in the ecu that will allow me to keep WOT during startup to shut of injectors till it starts? Just dont want to blow anything up. THanks

[Sonyman]

Are you getting a spark? if you got fuel, air and a spark, you got some action! If one is missing you aint got nothing assuming timing is on time and such.

[phantomgreen]

Yea got sparks. Timing appears correct.

[phantomgreen]

Ok check this out. When i was doing the timing initially, the cam gear bolts got stripped so I towed it to the shop and paid them to cut the bolts and install new ones, as well as go ahead and time it and do the lower intake gaskets all at once. I then had it towed back to my house to put it back together myself and therefore save $500. As i said above, it started the first time with a high idle because of the egr not connected. I havent been able to start it since so I took the engine apart down to the cams and discovered the tensioner actuator rod is not in the tensioner pulley recess, but has jumped out and is scraping against the belt and destroying it. Im trying to think what would have made the tensioner rod jump out of position, and if this is the shops fault or mine.

[Sonyman]

possibly the shop but who got time and money to getta lawyer and that; the timing belt tensioner has a "point" that sticks out into a plate. That plate is held in place by 2 "10" or 13mm" bolts. If one or both of those bolts was too loose and came off or if you were missing one, put moe stress on the other and it just gave up so then the "ball" point of the tensioner would have backed off its seat from the tensioner pulley allowing your belt timing to stray off. Fix the problem, get that timing back in order and it'l be aight.

[phantomgreen]

No the bolts were fine. Either the tensioner wasnt placed in the seating of the tensioner pulley to begin with, or when the engine backfired it caused the tensioner to jump out of position.

[phantomgreen]

Yea they're gonna redo it for free so thats taken care of, is there any chance I would of bent any valves by starting the car with no tension on the belt? cant remember if 93 are interference or not. Thanks

[pocket-rocket]

I would think that the nub wasn't in its divot in the first place. The only way to retract that tensioner is with a screwdriver in the back, it will not compress otherwise at all, let alone a backfire. None of the DOHC should be interference unless by high idle you meant it was idling at 5-6k, and even then it might not bend valves. You should be good to go man. Besides, if there are bent valves they should be covered by the shop as well since their mistake caused the timing to jump in the first place.

[phantomgreen]

Cool thanks.

[Sonyman]

i second that