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  • Cam gear bolts

    Ive got the motor apart to replace the timing belt and retime it but the cam gear bolts wont come lose. I have the new belt on and the cam hold down tool bolted to the cam flats with a 15mm socket on the cam gear bolts and I just split a 15mm socket in half( it was a craftsman) but I dont want to strip the bolts. Any suggestions?

  • #2
    Well, I'd say you're lucky just the socket broke.... You NEED a cam-sprocket holding tool before you start crankin on any wrenches... The timing tool is NOT designed for that and can strip either the bolt (if you're lucky) or the threads in the cam carrier. If the tool is made from key-stock the tool can also bend. Attached is a jpg of a home-made cam-sprocket holding tool, easy to make. Once ya gots that position it so it rests against something solid and try it with a GOOD socket, breaker bar and maybe a pipe over that if needed... If you have air wrenches maybe that would help?? Soak it with PB Blaster....... But first you have to be able hold that sprocket..... Once you do that you should be able to loosen the bolt....
    Hope this helps,,,
    Tom
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      Yea thanks for the help. For now I just decided to raplace the belt and its components and I will go back later when I have all the tools I need and actually time it. Since its a 93 how do I go about pulling the rear cam sprockets once I remove the bolts. Is there a puller that will fit inbetween the sprockets and the passenger strut tower?

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      • #4
        Well I got the car back together and the timing is definately fukd up. The idle is so low it wont even start or stay running if it does. Im in the process of taking it apart again and want to make sure I have everything lined up.
        Since its a 93 do I have to time it without the belt on due to the lockrings? I am following dohcfiends guide that was sent with the timing tool but it doesnt seem to apply to an engine with the lockrings.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by phantomgreen View Post
          Well I got the car back together and the timing is definately fukd up. The idle is so low it wont even start or stay running if it does. Im in the process of taking it apart again and want to make sure I have everything lined up.
          Since its a 93 do I have to time it without the belt on due to the lockrings? I am following dohcfiends guide that was sent with the timing tool but it doesnt seem to apply to an engine with the lockrings.
          Well on the front bank of cams the flats must be up when the the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is @ TDC. The rear bank needs to be 90 degrees out of phase w/ the front bank.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Stoney_Z34 View Post
            Well on the front bank of cams the flats must be up when the the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is @ TDC. The rear bank needs to be 90 degrees out of phase w/ the front bank.


            You mean 180 deg. The back flats are up at tdc and the fronts are down then you turn the crank and the cam flats on the front are up and the rear are down.

            96 Z34 3.4 SC DOHC Getrag, 284 5sd manual transmission, stage 3spec clutch, 97 engine, 97 pcm, S3 intercooler 1 of 1 Roots SC LQ1 in the world 8.5 psi.

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            • #7
              I took the motor apart again and I found that my new intake gasket i put on was completely crooked somehow so I put on a new intake gasket and put the engine all back together and the car runs fine. BUT the timing is completely different than before. The car has absolutely no low end power and really starts to haul balls in the high rpms ( around 4500 rpms). The valves make a cool waaah sound past 4500. When I was timing it i think the exhaust cam on the front bank slipped a few teeth either retarding or advancing it. Its running but im getting all the tools I need to time it properly when I get the chance.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by phantomgreen View Post
                I took the motor apart again and I found that my new intake gasket i put on was completely crooked somehow so I put on a new intake gasket and put the engine all back together and the car runs fine. BUT the timing is completely different than before. The car has absolutely no low end power and really starts to haul balls in the high rpms ( around 4500 rpms). The valves make a cool waaah sound past 4500. When I was timing it i think the exhaust cam on the front bank slipped a few teeth either retarding or advancing it. Its running but im getting all the tools I need to time it properly when I get the chance.
                Oops, yea I mean 180 deg. But I really thought that the front flats were suposed to be up @ TDC? (anyone) But anyways, I timed my motor with both sets of flats up at TDC and it ran as well. The exhaust note was deeper, and it ran like a bat out of hell until I shut it off! I guess that it had warmed up and it sounded like it was fighting against it's own compression stroke when I cranked it. I figured out that in the 95's (or 94) down to my 92 the cam flats had to be 180deg. out of phase. This really got me interested in timing the cams separately so I had a set of hold down tools machined w/ 3 deg adv. on intake and 3 deg. ret. on the exhaust. Can't wait to get that puppy off the engine stand!

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Stoney_Z34 View Post
                  Oops, yea I mean 180 deg. But I really thought that the front flats were suposed to be up @ TDC? (anyone) But anyways, I timed my motor with both sets of flats up at TDC and it ran as well. The exhaust note was deeper, and it ran like a bat out of hell until I shut it off! I guess that it had warmed up and it sounded like it was fighting against it's own compression stroke when I cranked it. I figured out that in the 95's (or 94) down to my 92 the cam flats had to be 180deg. out of phase. This really got me interested in timing the cams separately so I had a set of hold down tools machined w/ 3 deg adv. on intake and 3 deg. ret. on the exhaust. Can't wait to get that puppy off the engine stand!
                  that sounds mean... are you gunna produce and sell?
                  Robert
                  ---------------------------------------------------
                  96 Grand Prix SE 3100 202,000 miles
                  New Rebuilt 3100
                  New Rebuilt 4T60-E
                  Exhaust
                  Drilled/Slotted Rotors


                  95 Grand Prix GTP 177,000 miles
                  White
                  3" Magnaflow Catback
                  Lowered 2" Eibach in front Brichmount Rear
                  94-96 Hi-Po 5 Stars on 245/50/16


                  90 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix
                  5 Speed Swapped
                  127,000
                  Spec Stage 3 Clutch
                  230,000 mile Getrag 282
                  Emissions Deleted
                  Brand new Engine 1,000 Miles
                  Fully Custom Built car

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 94GPGTP View Post
                    that sounds mean... are you gunna produce and sell?
                    A friend of a friend of mine works in a machine shop. He fabbed them out of key stock for me. I got specs but I got to find 'em. I'll post l8tr. Oh yea, key stock is so cheep that he fabbed em for free

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