Getting ready to dive into my lq1

[coryatver]

do you have the gm part number for the new style o-ring. The parts guy probley knows what I need but just in case.

[55trucker]

I suppose that it would not be considered unusual to NOT get the o-ring for the plug in a Head set, seeing as the plug is actually in the block and is really not removed from the block when pulling the heads off (unless of course it needs to be removed for service to the pump drive).

[pocket-rocket]

I suppose that it would not be considered unusual to NOT get the o-ring for the plug in a Head set, seeing as the plug is actually in the block and is really not removed from the block when pulling the heads off (unless of course it needs to be removed for service to the pump drive).

I would agree with you there. I personally don't have the GM part number for it, but if you go to your local stealership, they should be able to hook you up with the right part. I do recall the new o ring being brown like the original one as well. I think it's supposed to be able to handle the higher temps then the regular grade black ones sold at the local hardware stores.

[deansharkgp]

It's an excellant idea to change the dist plug o-ring while ya got the back head off. It's probably shot anyway. I just did mine with the head on, what a PITA. Also the timing belt tensioner is a good idea. You don't want to go back in again later to change that. It's cheaper to do it now while it's open.

[nequamminor]

The part number for the new style gm o-ring is 10477565. The new o-ring is brown.

[coryatver]

Well I got it tore down to the heads today. Tomorrow pulling the heads and putting it back together if i remember how. The timing belt was real bad half of it was almost gone and the wheels are scuffed up on the bad side of the belt. Good thing I got the parts to do it already.

[pocket-rocket]

I thought the same thing the first time I tore mine down. I thought man, that's a lot of parts, how many am I going to have left over O.O It's not as bad as you think. Anymore I could probably name the size of each of the nuts and bolts that come off the top end of the DOHC now...

[deansharkgp]

Did ya remember to get the tensioner? Puttin' back together isn't too bad. You remember everything as you go along. I usually use a video cam as I'm taking it apart so I don't miss anything when I put it together. Good luck with it.

[coryatver]

I took off the heads and installed new gaskets and put them back on and the oil seal and lower intake is on. Going pretty smooth. I have a power steering leak I was hoping I could find with it all tore down but couldn't find it I put on a new high pressure hose I bought earlier becuase I figured that was it.

[SuzukiGhostRider]

Just so you know, you do not have to have the holddown tools for the cams, but from what I hear, they help. When I did the belt on my 1995 Cutlass Supreme, I did NOT use the holddown tools, and was still able to get it right. They just help hold it in place, but from the issues I had with the rear camshaft, I think it would be easier to do WITHOUT the holddown tools than with.

I second this. I did the TB in my '94 GTP WITHOUT the cam hold down tools and it worked out fine. Not sure if it was mentioned already, but get the heads checked while they're out. Don't just assume they're fine and it's the head gaskets. GL. Oh, yea, and don't forget to reset the tensioner,lol.

[deansharkgp]

I took off the heads and installed new gaskets and put them back on .

Did you have the heads checked?
It would be a real b!tch to have it all together and find out you got the same problem b/c your head was warped. For your sake I hope it's not. GL

[coryatver]

no I didn't get the heads checked. I don't want to put any more money into it if the new gaskets don't take then its getting junked. Also I am re using the tensioner becuase im not paying 106 bucks for a new one. I got about 350 bucks in it which is about what the junk yard will give me for it so if it doesn't work out its gone. It has to end somewhere I could have done the heads, then rings, pistons then why stop there the crank and everything soon i will have thousands of bucks in it might as well buy a new car.

I put the cam carriers and timing belt on tonight and got it timed and put the covers back on. I made one tool to lock down the front cams. Hopefully I can get it running this weekend and back out on the road.

[deansharkgp]

[QUOTE=coryatver;366105] It has to end somewhereQUOTE]
Yea, sometimes ya just gotta say "enough is enough". Hope it works out for ya. I only mentioned the tensioner b/c mine went after only about 5000 miles. Luckilly it was changed out again for free. These engines are a PITA when they're not right.

[SuzukiGhostRider]

I understand not wanting to spend a crapload of money,but what ($40?) , to get your heads checked for level isn't worth it after all the work to tear down the engine and put head gaskets in? Ok. I wish you all the best and sincerely hope it wasn't a warped head.

[coryatver]

Well I got it back together and test drove it. Good news is the water radiator system is working like it should. But Something is very messed up. In neutral it revs up fine but in gear going down the road it has no power and will only rev up to about 2000 rpm also if I hold the throttle wide open a couple seconds it makes some kind of thud or thump or something under the hood. maybe it is out of time but whats the thud probably destroying something i don't know or the belt slipping or the top end going kaboom