Yeah you guessed it. It's ALIVE!!!!!!!! For those that don't know what i'm talking about, read my recent threads: My 3.4 Won't Run Pt. 1 & II. First of all let give a special firm handshake of appreciation to all who offered their opinionated advice towards my STE especially to "Series8217", "Dohcfiend", "Wratlofsocrus", "Tomsp2GP", "Grandprixgtp91", "1994KlrWhaleolds"(How's your wife doin' man?) and anyone else i may have missed. Check this, I got a wire harness from a 96 Lumina Z34 and started one wire at a time made a complete custom wire harness that fit my vehicle from the ECM connector-to the fuel injector wire harness-to the sensor harness on the end (TPS, IAC) you know... during this splicing i noticed on my original harness there were two wires that when i spliced it the wire was dark like as if it was cooked about two inches long. I tested it , it could not transfer current. So i cut the bad out and spliced the good from the other harness i had. "Series8217, DOHCfiend" you guys hit the nail on head on that. Replaced EVERY ground in the engine bay with stronger, oil/gas resistance wire from Home Depot...yeah thats right, no shorts here! I used the fuel rail off the 96 and its injectors and fuel regulator since its rail doesnt have that extra canister loop above the fuel regulator, you know what i'm talkin' about? Checked for injecot spray...shhhh it sprayed like bathroonm spray! Anyway after all of that, and put it all back together guess what? Yeah thats right VROOOOMMMMM!!! It sounded strong and mean like the 3.4 monster i know. I let it run for 30 minutes long watching it come to temperature to turn on the fans and all.. it did just what it supposed to do with no missing. I revved the engine several times trying to stall it but it wouldnt give in. I took it for a test drive and man!! You talk about performance?! Now i admit, i replaced every sensor on the engine, almost every wire in the engine bay; to put it short i probably did way more than i needed to fix the problem but it was the only way to get piece of mind plus i dont have to worry about nothing else because i repaired or replaced other nick-naks as i went. Eventually it would be needed so why not knock it all out now? As you read on the previous threads, guys in the past just punked out trying to figure out the problem even a Pontiac dealership! Bunch of wussies! Can't stand anyone who claims ASE but shys away from a basic challenge like this. Yeah it was a headache but there was a logical explanation for the problem as well as a solution to solve it. For all those who currently have engines issues, let my thread(s) be a lesson/inspiration to ya, it CAN be fixed. Either Repair or Replace it, thats my thang. Follow and understand your wire schematics and retrace your steps! It took me forever and day but I did it all by myself not the so-called pros! Anyway i need another tranny, i got one waiting for me. gonna do the swap, get my 3.4 brother in Louisiana get his 96 3.4 Cutty Convert goin, then we gonna double team the streets once again! Anyway, thank you 60DegreeV6! Let me know when the next get-together is happenin' and I'm out! Drinks on me!
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My 3.4 Won't Run Pt. III Update/Special Thanks
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I just found this stuff called Brooklyn Lager and it's some serious beer .
Seriously though, I'm glad another 60* is back on the road. I have my '89 base Cutty completely torn apart (subframe hanging around out back with a fresh coat of paint) and just a few pieces away from putting it together. Now my boss killed his business and I don't have a steady income. I've had this car 2 years and never drove it, although it's seen a handful of miles on the 2 tow trucks it's been on. It had a thrown bearing and I just started working on it this winter. I know how frustrating it can be to have something sitting there and not driving. Great to see someone put some real effort forth and not give up like most people!
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Was the wire sort of fat? Maybe a fusible link? Not to beat a dead horse, but maybe look up the wire colors and find out what those were hooked to so someone else that comes along with that problem knows what wire/sensor to check for power (if they are fusible links, or even if they aren't). It's good to hear it's back on the streets though, grats on solving without the "Pros" (I use that term loosely here, ).-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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Ok you have two wires coming from the ECM leading to the injectors. Depending on the car year and if your 3.4 have one crank sensor (like mine) or two with a cam sensor, it may be a different color wire. Mine was pink w/black line and dark blue. On other cars it may be red and black. One of these main wires when i stripped it was burnt black about two inches long, so on a cold start it ran poorly ok but after 10-15min. of running, resistance increased and couldnt flow freely through that part of wiring so if it deprived the injectors of necessary voltage to operate and stalled to a kill but after a cool down period started back up. Even when it started it was missing but in addition to the wire fix, i put on another fuel rail and set of injectors so there may have been a possible fuel issue in there also.
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