Coolant Temperature Issue

[5speedz34]

I just got the GP running and its been doing this long before it was just taken in.

The gauge on the dash usually stays below 210 once it warms up. Once I get to a traffic light though the needle moves up usually somewhere between 210 and 235 (the halfway mark between 210-265). Once I take off the car starts to cool back down. It stays pretty stationary while moving.

Whats the deal?

New Radiator (aftermarket, looked to be a little thinner than stock)
New W/P
New hoses
New T-stat
Fresh coolant
Both fans work.

FWIW: The primary fan comes on at 230*

Heres what the cluster looks like:

[93Oldsdroptop]

That sounds pretty normal to me. That's what my Olds does and has done since the day I bought it.

When you sit at a light, the coolant doesn't circulate as fast and there is no air blowing thru the radiator. Then when you go, the flow increases and the radiator gets cooled.

That's why your temp goes higher when standing at idle in D.

As long as it doesn't get higher than around 235, you're ok. That's why your fans are set to kick on at 230 degrees.

[gpse3400]

The pushrod engines got a thinner radiator in '94 I beleive. The TDC had the same size core since '91. So it is quite possible you are running a pushrod radiator and that's why the engine is geting hot. Verify this.

[5speedz34]

The pushrod engines got a thinner radiator in '94 I beleive. The TDC had the same size core since '91. So it is quite possible you are running a pushrod radiator and that's why the engine is geting hot. Verify this.

My buddy got the radio for me from NAPA unless for some reason what NAPA lists is wrong.

EDIT: It did basically the same thing with the old radiator.

[gpse3400]

Was the old rad clogged?

[5speedz34]

Was the old rad clogged?

No it was leaking slightly from the driver's side tank, above the upper radiator hose. The leak wasn't the problem, but the cooling system wouldn't pressurize.

[gpse3400]

Are you running that new style waterpump with the sheet metal impeller?

[5speedz34]

Are you running that new style waterpump with the sheet metal impeller?

The impeller are the "blades" right? If so then yes. I looked kinda cheap to me.

[Carlspike]

I had problems with the updated style water pump. After I put the new style on the car it would go almost into the red at stop signs and on coast down. After replacing the new style pump with a reman one there has been no problems, the car runs at 210 all the time. I'm not sure if I just got a bad pump but the new style didn't work in my car.

[gpse3400]

that pump works for the pushrod engines, its not ment for the TDC, you should get a reman old style or got the yard and yank one off any GEN2-3 60 deg V6 from '03 down.

[5speedz34]

Damnit.....

[series8217]

Huh, I haven't seen this "updated" water pump yet, but mine is about due for its 15,000 mile interval replacement (they don't seem to like the revs much do they?) as it has some play in the bearing now. I'll have to watch out when I get a new one. I guess the manufacturers ran out of new cast iron impellers?

[gpse3400]

I dont know what the deal is... The spacing may not be right from the impeller to the TDC housing or its is just cheap pos. I've never seen it either but i know this engine doesn't like using it. Of all the w bodies and engines I've owned, I've never had a problem with the water pump except once and that was my first car.....

[1994KlrWhaleOlds]

[series8217]

Thanks for the pic!