My 3.4 Won't Run!!!

[dohcfiend]

you can check your grounds by doing a ground continuity test.

sounds like you are going to have to start over.

1.verify spark. pull your plug wires out and crank the engine to verify they are arching to ground. also try pulling all 6 wires off of your coilpacks and cranking the engine, if your crank sensor is functioning correctly, it should arch tower to tower.

2. verify fuel. you already have pressure. pull your rail but keep your lines hooked up, set the rail over a container to catch the fuel, be sure to hook up your tps or this will not work. 1st click on the ign, see if any injectors are leaking, then crank the engine to verify they are spraying.

3. verify compression. hook up a compression tester and verify you are getting proper compression.

4. verify sensors.

your tps should read somewhere close to 1.5v off of the signal wire with your ign on and throttle closed.

i forget what your map should read, you'll have to figure it out.

with the coil arch test we kind of verified the cps. only way to actually test it is with an oscilliscope as far as i know.

i do not know about how to test the icm but with the arc test should verify the icm as well as the coilpacks.

iac if you fear your iac is closed you can turn your idle screw up to let in air.

verify timing.

pop your intake off and both of your valve covers, rotate your engine to tdc 2 of the cam flats should face up and 2 should face down. rotate your engine to tdc again, the 2 flats that were up should be down and the set that was down should be up.

that is all i can think of for the moment. double check your connections if none of this works.

[Sonyman]

when you say Arch tower to tower, you mean i should see sparks between the towers? MY ignition module is above my starter in front of the engine not up by the map sensor on top of the engine so i wont be able to see whats going on. elaborate please

[grandprixgtp_91]

yeah you will see spark jumping from the coil terminals where the spark plug wires go, spark will jump back and forth between them

Jake

[Sonyman]

Ok well to all who have posted reply to this headache i'm trying to fix, thank you. I'm about to retire, my head hurts. I'll check any more postings in the morning before i start on this again. Please reply as detailed as possible and i'll read them in the morning. Thanks to all of the 3.4 family

[grandprixgtp_91]

were you just driving in a straight line, or were you accelerating when it died, also how long had you been driving for and was the engine warm or just getting there. have you tried spraying quick start into the throttle body while someone tries cranking it over? if it starts up like that, then you have a fuel issue, but i would take your fuel rail out and make sure all injectors are spraying, because you might have bad injectors, also if the car has been sitting for a year and a half, i would get rid of the gas in it and put some fresh stuff in, just jump the fuel pump and disconnect a fuel line and let it run into a container until its empty then run some new gas through the same way to get the old gas outta the lines. bad gas can do wierd stuff.

Jake

[Sonyman]

I tried squiting some fuel down the throttle body and it ran but rough and missing plus i had to keep my hand of throttle to keep it alive but that was a year ago. Now if it starts, it runs on its own....oh yeah i dropped the tank, cleaned it blew out the fuel lines and put in what it has now almost a full tank of fuel. So that had already been checked and done. Is it possible for ALL 6 injectors to die at the same time? I think i'll do the fuel rail thing today and see what happens. Just to clarify, this problem occurred a year ago and a half, all of what has been done to correct the problem has happened within the last few months so pretty much the problem should be near to show its ugly head

[Sonyman]

when i verified fuel, i turned the fuel rail upside down so i can see it spray, hooked the sensors with the plenum on the side (TPS, IAC, MAP Sensor, Coolant Temp Sensor, EGR Valve), out of 10 times, i saw the injectors spray once quickly 3 times. It sprayed when i turned the key back from "Crank" to the "On" position. Is this the way it works itself? I thought i would see a sequential spray when each cylinder reach its point to fire. Anyway i took a day off from work just to do these tests, let me know what you think. i'm open to telephone conversation to make faster communication if you're game.

[dohcfiend]

iirc this is a batch fire system so they should fire 3 at a time. i think it goes 146/235 for the pattern but i could be wrong.



**scratches head**

you have a definate problem somewhere.

What should happen:

turn the ign on, fuel pump activates, pressurizes rail, crank, injectors spray, turn key back to the on position, injectors should not spray.

you need to turn them right side and see if any of them leak when you pressurize the rail.

next on the coils, i would suggest buying one of those triggers with the 2 leads on it. you turnthe ign on and connect the leads to the starter and pull the trigger when you are down there and you can see the "arching".

did you ever check for proper voltage on the tps and find out/check for voltage on the MAP?

p.s. if you haven't replaced the TPS, check it with the volt meter. not sure on your wiring skills but here is the easiest way i know of.

until you check it, my money may be here.

set your meter to ohms. if you have a nicer one activate the ohm beeper.

unplug your tps. put one lead on terminal C on the tps plug and get yourself 1 jumper wire. i.e. little wire with the alligator clips on each end. put one end on the other lead and the other on the pin C wire and squeeze it until it beeps or shows resistence.

next leave the jumper on and plug the tps plug back in, set the meter to volts dc put the positive lead on the jumper wire and the negative on a ground. turn the ign on, it should read 1.5 vdc or close to it.

[1994KlrWhaleOlds]

You're 1000% sure you have spark?

[Sonyman]

i pulled a spark plug boot off and laid it next to a plenum bolt to see if sparks jump, it did.

[Sonyman]

i noticed one injector was slowly juice-ing up with fuel while the fuel pressure was up, would that qualify as a leaking injector? Funny you mentioned about the MAP sensor, before i did anything today, i tried cranking it, it cranked up and RAN it started to miss after about 30 seconds, then began to stall after about 3 minutes then killed. A code "34" came up which is a MAP sensor low voltage but don't open the champaign just yet. I happen to have two other sensors and no change. I waited a about 15 min. It cranked again but stayed alive about 3 minutes with me baby-ing the throttle to keep it alive...now what?

[dohcfiend]

ok my ebonics is a little weak, what does "juice-ing up" mean?

the definition of a leaking injector is if you see fuel coming out of it. If you pressurize the rail and fuel comes out of the bottom of the injector, it is leaking. i do not know how else to explain it.

[grandprixgtp_91]

if you cranked the engine over and you did not see fuel spraying from the injectors, then you have a problem with something that controls the injectors. maybe a tps sensor, which is attached to the opposite end from where the throttle cable goes, on the throttle body, the tps sensor reads how much throttle your giving it and adjusts fuel accordingly, check to make you you have voltage there, off the top of my head i think its a 5v reference , so you should see 5v on the feed side. then check the signal voltage make sure its all good, and if you see fuel comming out of one injector, then there is a problem with it. but for all 6 to go bad is unlikely, the only way that will happen if if you had a big electrical spike that fried them , but unlikely.

Jake

[grandprixgtp_91]

also we dont need to worry about spark if you say you dumped gas down the intake and it fired up.

Jake

[Sonyman]

LoL!! ok "DOHC" i'm sorry :-) thats what i mean, one of my injectors was slightly damp on the bottom of it