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My 91' Grandprix STE 3.4 will run when it wants to. IF i crank it up, it acts like it wants to but punks out. If it runs it will for about 30 minutes then slowly die and stall out. After 30 min. of cooling off, it will crank up again and repeat the whole process. What's really going on? Is it voodooed or what? Talk to me my "3.4" brothers!!!
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might the ignition control box acting up.Lorenzo
'11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
'92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster" -
cam/crank sensors?L27 ,CAI,Custom headers, Alky injection,series one uim swap,S2 TB,85mm maf from N*star ,Apexi SAFC,denso iridium plugs,8000k hid's,B&M shift kit plus adj. vacum modulator, custom Engine mounts, alternator rewire,Camaro SS calipers w/ BAER crossdrilled/slotted rotors,poly ENdlinks,PCV mod,wrapped headers and crossovers,A/c delete,3' high fllow cat with hooker ultra-flo muffler,,30# injectors from buick GN,Comment
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The ignition control modules don't have that mode of failure. They work, or they don't work at all.
Same with the cam and crank sensors. If the crank position sensor skips a pulse the ECM won't be able to keep track of what cylinders to fire. The car usually wont start at all if thats the case. If the wiring is bad, it could be losing pulses when it heats up as the resistance increases. Check for damaged wiring.
Coils can act up once they get hot, so that's a possibility.
I had a very similar problem on my 3.4 DOHC Fiero where the car wouldn't start or idle when it was hot. It turned out there was a bad wire to the injectors and when it heated up the connection had too much resistance to run the injectors at low RPM (i.e. at low idle or when cranking).Last edited by series8217; 01-29-2008, 05:19 PM.
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ok so what wiring do you think i may need to start at? From the crankshart sensor to the spark plug has been replaced except for the ignition control module. I thinking about also replacing the spark plug wires. I suppose when i do those replacements, i should clearer on whats what.Comment
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Dont be so sure. I've had more ING boxes fail and the fail differntly every time. There isnt a set way.Originally posted by series8217 View PostLorenzo
'11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
'92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"Comment
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ok i'll look into it. Also what is your take on the reason why my volts gauge drops a when i press on the brake, turn on the lights or even turn on the A/C? The alternator is all new along with the battery. I know these issues is small like crumbs on the table but can become a headache of a cake if it builds upComment
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Gp's has about 8 lights that go on in the back. It will load up the electrical system pretty good when you step on the brakes. Nothing to worry about. If the alternator breaks it will be for another reason....Lorenzo
'11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
'92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"Comment
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How much does it drop?Originally posted by Sonyman View Post
Are you missing one of the chassis to engine grounds somewhere? Check the battery ground cable too. It sounds like there's a lot of resistance in a main power circuit.Comment
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As a matter of fact it has a ground sire that i took off from a ground post to the chassis. It has ran all good and all since i've taken it off but i it still had the voltage drop before hand. But its on there for a reason i suppose. But that resistance issue sounds like "money in the bank" Ugh! If you ask me, there is some type of mechanical "voodooizm" on the 3.4 DOHCs. Especially when some basic issues that is right in your face doesn make sense. In other words fellas, my car's issue is the same as 2 + 2 = 5 and you know that don't make sense!!
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