91 Grand Prix won't start

[Apex]

Well I really don't want to spend $60 on a fuel pressure gauge that I will only use a couple times, and I can't find anyone who will rent them because of recalibration issues. I was trying to change the crank sensor yesterday but cold weather makes plastic very brittle and I ended up breaking part of the head off. So I figure I can wait to go back out and mess with it till it warms up to at least above 0°. If it's not the crank sensor I will probably try the ECU. It did flash that weird code 39, which I can't find any source that says that code even exists. I went back out there to see if maybe I was mistaken when I wrote it down but it still flashes that 39 after all of the other codes...strange...
As for Florida..I hate you...it's 60° inside my house right now...that's warm...

[d.o.h.c]

ahaha, yeah it got down to 30 last night, thats cold for me. Also try the clutch activation switch. I know that will cause the car to not start.

[walterdude]

Wellll, according to "Mr. Haynes" the #39 code is for the "Transaxle Clutch Switch". Sounds like DOHC may have hit it. It says for 92/93 3.4l V6s only,,, you say you have a 91??? Maybe it's been swapped???..... Anyhoo,,, It says to "Check for a short to ground between the ECM and the clutch switch, bad connections at the ECM and make sure the clutch switch is securely fastened." Hope this helps!!! TOO cold to be stumped on a car!!!
Tom....

[d.o.h.c]

Well, 91 was a 5 speed year, haynes sometimes messes up.

[Apex]

If the crank sensor turns out to not be the problem I will look into it, but wouldn't that make it not crank at all? Most cars I've been in won't even crank if the clutch switch isn't engaged...

[TDIXON]

my manual also says code 39 torque converter clutch circuit.

[Apex]

Little bit of an update - been working on removing the crank sensor. Unfortunately it looks like I am going to have to remove the oil pan now that it completely broke off inside the block...

[d.o.h.c]

Good luck with that. You cant get the 3.4 DOHC oil pan off without droping the frame

[series8217]

ahaha, yeah it got down to 30 last night, thats cold for me. Also try the clutch activation switch. I know that will cause the car to not start.

To clarify, the clutch pedal starter cutoff will prevent the car from starting (it won't crank at all), but the clutch pedal on/off position switch will do nothing to cause the car to not start. It just messes with some idle and decel fuel cutoff stuff if it the ECM notices it not cycling after like four stops down to 0mph after going 45mph in between.

[Apex]

Well I finally got the crank sensor replaced and now it at least starts with starting fluid being sprayed down the intake, but still no start on it's own. So I checked all of the fuses again and the injector fuse under the hood is blown and so is the A.I.R. fuse. Changed them both but the injector fuse keeps blowing everytime I turn the ignition on. Don't have to start the car even, it blows as soon as I turn the key to the on position. Looked over the wiring and it all seems ok...I guess I'll unplug all the injectors and see if it still does it. Any ideas?

[gpse3400]

Dont worry about the air pump, if the fuse is blown then the air pump motor is blown as well. And you don't need it for the vehicle to operate correctly. Sounds like good progress. Let us know what you find.

[Apex]

Well I unplugged the injectors to see if the fuse would still blow and it still did. Checked out the wires under the fuse block and they all seemed fine. I hooked the injectors back up and put the fuse block back and a new fuse and it started up fine. Runs and drives great now. So crank sensor was the main issue and then after it all went back together the fuse was the other problem. It's been running great since saturday but I'm pretty worried that the fuse is going to blow again. For now I'm just going to let her drive it (my girlfriend) since no matter where she drives I'll be no farther than 15 miles away so I can come get her if it actually breaks down again.