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91 Grand Prix won't start

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  • #16
    Checked the 5 volt reference to the map. Perfectly fine, there's quite a bit of fuel that comes out of the shraeder valve when you press on it while cranking, should be plenty to at least get it to fire. Any more ideas?

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    • #17
      have u checked the time belt at all yet
      1997 Chevrolet Camaro 30th Anniversary 5Speed.
      3800 V6 (i know its not a 60degree)
      stock for now

      --------------------
      1993 Special Edtion/GTP
      3.4 DOHC V6 LQ1 SOLD!
      CHIPED,CAI,EXHAUST 2 1/2 SUMMIT TURBO MUFFLERS & NO CAT,,AC DELCO RAPID FIRE PLUGS,
      180 STAT. FUTURE MODS,50,000v COILS,FFP PULLEY,FFP DOGBONE!
      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
      VIDEO http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...oid=2020589230

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      • #18
        Could've jumped time but ehhh...Maybe your EGR is hanging open but even the it should respond to the prod of the throttle. I'm thinknig DIS still.... maybe a bad crank sensor?
        Lorenzo
        '11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
        '92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"

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        • #19
          Yes I checked the timing belt and it looks to be in great shape. If the belt actually jumped it should at least backfire.

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          • #20
            So I'm almost positive it's the ignition module, especially with that code 42 it gave me. I can't believe that wasn't the first thing I thought of, especially coming from the world of Fiero's, where every 2.8 owner (including myself) always keeps a spare ICM in the glove box. Doh! Well as soon as I get off work I'm going to go change it and see what happens. I'll keep you all updated with the results.

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            • #21
              Well seeing that a new ignition module is $100, anyone know of a way to test it even if I have to pull it out of the car first?

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              • #22
                junkyard or ebay. I dont know how to check one other than swap and see.
                Ben
                60DegreeV6.com
                WOT-Tech.com

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                • #23
                  Well I threw away to $90 for a module, no difference. I'm going to try the crank sensor tomorrow I guess. Let me tell you, changing the ignition module in my driveway when it's -5° sucks! Any more idea's other than the crank sensor? Help!

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Apex View Post
                    Well seeing that a new ignition module is $100, anyone know of a way to test it even if I have to pull it out of the car first?
                    I'm pretty sure most auto stores have a special setup for testing just about any electrical component in a vehicle, though I can't say if they'll charge you. Whenever my car doesn't start, the codes usually reference a sensor.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by sonofpern View Post
                      I'm pretty sure most auto stores have a special setup for testing just about any electrical component in a vehicle, though I can't say if they'll charge you. Whenever my car doesn't start, the codes usually reference a sensor.
                      Well it doesn't matter now I already changed it....

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                      • #26
                        Do you have any spark at all?
                        Ben
                        60DegreeV6.com
                        WOT-Tech.com

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                        • #27
                          Yes I do, at least in the front cylinders...

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                          • #28
                            if the igniiton is good then its fuel... INjectors not flowing, Coolant sensor bad? tps bad or a bad computer and or memcal.....
                            Lorenzo
                            '11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
                            '92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"

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                            • #29
                              Well I want to go work on it because it's got to get done this weekend...but it's too frickin cold out! It's -8 right now and "feels like" -27°. WTF why do cars always have to do this in the cold...tomorrow's high will be -3°. Damn.

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                              • #30
                                Makes me love florida, its 60 degree for the low, and thats cold. Yeah man you just need to know how to do diagnostics. First see if you get fuel. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rain. If there is fuel, then take the injectors out and make sure they click by putting 12volts to them. If you get around 35 psi at the rail, and the injectors fire, then your good on fuel. Next thing to look at is spark. Since you alrady put the ICM in and wires and plugs, then there is nothing really left. Just make sure you get spark. If both have checked out do far, then you go to codes. U have a lot of codes that are showing up. I would bet that you have a bad ECM(which very rarly goes bad) or a bad CKP. If the enine is rotating, but there is no signal from the CKP, then its going to just keep turing over. Since you have fuel and spark, then its going to be electronic.


                                WWW.OverKillEngineeringMotorsports.com

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