LQ-1 Electrical Problem

[VerbotenZ34]

Well, I've been lucky so far, but I guess it was inevitable: I've run into my first problem with the Z34.
Part One: The battery symbol came on today while driving to NAIT. Performance in light traffic was unaffected; however, while accelerating, performance was normal but would extinguish the battery light (as if the alternator was spinning faster and providing greater charge).
Also, the turn signal lights flashed sluggishly, both on the exterior and on the dash display. Is this the sign of the alternators imminent demise, or symptomatic of another problem?

Part Two: The 'Anti-Lock' dashboard discrete came on during the drive. Is this an associated problem to Part One, or unrelated?
I haven't checked my Haynes manual/Owners Manual as they are both at home and I am here, at school.

Anyone with a possible diagnosis or similar experience who can shed some light on this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
Verboten

[montessgtp]

I believe when your volts goes below or above a certin level your anti lock becomes inoperative. When my alternator went my anti-lock came on do lack of voltage to assist it.

Check your connections w/battery check battery volts and charging...u know the normal shit.

[bud36light]

my anti lock light did the same thing when the alternator decided it did like me anymore.

[Lyle's GTP]

Definatily alternator. Change it quick, or you will fuck your battery. Mine did all that plus the stereo would even cut out too. If I sat at a light too lond without reving the engine, the car would almost die. The electrical was so drained that the car would barely move. I did fuck my cheap-ass delco battery. Got a Optima Yellow top now though.

Lyle

[VerbotenZ34]

Heh heh, thanks for the replies and info guys, but I think the problem has solved itself nicely. I stalled out after draining my battery - on one of the busiest thoroughfares in the city, during rush hour, in the turning lane no less
I was almost home too! At least it was a cheap tow ride - one kilometer
Now I have to deal with replacing the accursed alternator,....

Verboten

[Lyle's GTP]

Told you she'd die. Were you that stall on the Whitemud? HeHeHe ...........Now your fun begins. Need any help, let me know.

Lyle

[VerbotenZ34]

Nope, ate up an entire lane on 137th Ave - while everyone who works in the west end was coming home
I've been reading the walkthrough on the site here, and I feel pretty confident in my ability - it's just going to take two days to do it because I'm paranoid about messing something else up when I get frustrated and rush the job

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[VerbotenZ34]

Cost of a replacement HO Alternator: $160
Cost to develop the W-Body platform: Untold millions
Being unable to complete a repair because of two $0.25 bolts: PRICELESS

Well, the bolts on the brake calliper mounting bracket just WILL NOT give. I tried liquid wrench, heat, longer breaker bar, everything! I got fed up....time to let the professionals have a crack at it.

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[Lyle's GTP]

Bring her to me dude. I'll bust those bolts loose. I've got all the tricks.

Lyle

[VerbotenZ34]

Whoo! That's ok Lyle, I finally got them off, by hook or by crook. I used the T60 bit (as is required) and just kept on repeating a cycle of lube, heat, and pry. Now I'm on my way!

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[SappySE107]

Make sure you put those bolts back on super tight. I had one work its way loose on me even though it was tight to my standards.

[VerbotenZ34]

You wouldn't happen to have the torque specs at hand, would you Ben?

Verboten

[Cotton]

"lock-tite",,,,the red stuff.

[bud36light]

"the red stuff" shudder..........

[Lyle's GTP]

I believe it's 96 ft/lbs. The red stuff is fine if it's an application where you can use heat to remove the bolt. But if you use the medium grade stuff and proper torque, they will never come out.

Lyle