Rear Spark Plugs on 3.4L

[gpse3400]

I just assemble extensions progressivly till it's high enough for a rachet to be utilzed.......

[pontiac92gp]

I just assemble extensions progressivly till it's high enough for a rachet to be utilzed.......

Same here, although I will be cutting to make it easier next week

[bud36light]

Try to use a really thin extension next time. I found some strange brand name at a yard sale one time that just clears that lip in my Monte Carlo. Never had to cut anything. Might even try a combo of 1/4 inch stuff also.

[RednBlack]

Extentions and universals deplete torque values. Aluminum needs the right stuff. Don't skimp. Cut it and go straight on. This is a No-Brainer. Or if you want, strip a plug hole. Pay the price. Of course opinions vary. Hey Ryan! Can you come up with a quicky for the alternator?

[Juglenaut]

Or if you want, strip a plug hole

HaHa

Whatever on depletion.

I already did that been there twice then some, I tried every way, and I never stripped a plug hole.

Plenum off, tilted engine, engine normal, engine with dog bone off, notched lip (I was doing that 7 years ago)....I also compared torque values to the extention/universal set up and there is minimal differentences like less than 2 pounds according to torque wrench. I put the plugs in the ext/uni way and removed plenum to see if the torque was off straight on and guess what 2 pounds less is not all that much since most torque wrenches aren't exact anyway.... So I set my mini torque wrench 2 pounds ahead, did the ext/uni way and removed plenum all over again and guess what right on rating within a half pound....Wow who whoulda though physics was going to come into play, I already got it covered.

Granted a slight loss in torque will happen to what the wrench sees thus decreasing torque on the plug and increasing the torsion on the wrench and increasing the amount of over force needed to equal torque rating at the nut, because the angle take away form torsional lever advantage at the pivot of the joint. I still hand thread my plugs, although alot of people arn't as tolerant or small as I am to squeeze your arms into what space there is which equals just enough to fit my hand in the back and hand thread.

If you think that removing plugs on the DOHC is such a complicated issue than try it on a 350 or 305 in a passanger car with air injection.

If I had to change my plugs again I would go ahead and remove the plenum since I can dissasemble down to lower intake in about a half hour if not less, change plugs this way is a breeze, inspect lower gaskets mabey remove manifold as well to look at valves. Since in original GM procedure it states that the plenum should be removed to remove rear plugs, it was intended that the upper and lower gaskets to be changed at or about the same inverval as the plugs, however, there was some issues on that. In fact original outlines included upper/lower gaskets at the same interval change period as the plugs and was included in general maintainence.

[ryan.hess]

Hey Ryan! Can you come up with a quicky for the alternator?

Dynamite! and lots of it!

[bud36light]

and dont forget to start those plugs with a piece of vac hose to keep from cross threading .

[Juglenaut]

oooh

Dynamite! and lots of it!

weee sometimes I wish it

[RednBlack]

Hopefully whoever is changing these plugs has enough savy to use extentions and swivels. I've made a lot of money off of people who didn't have the mechanical apptitude to use them correctly. If you are mechanically inclined go ahead. I am and I still am going to cut the weatherstrip strip. However I am going to cut it so I can bend it up and put it back. Use silicone to seal the cuts. Hate for water to get to my plug wires. I figure any good shortcut is OK as long as the bridge is not out. Not arguing with you Jug, just my opinion, and opinions vary.

[Juglenaut]

Haha you cut the weatherstrip over.
It works as a short cut if you change your plugs every 5k miles or replace many on other peoples.

You can keep your cutting things away from my firewall. If I brought my GP to a mechanic and they did that I would be very upset.

I don't disagree with it, believe me I have done it before and saved sometime. It is just that on the first plug change you should check the and or change the upper/lower gaskets and check the valves. It is just funny and or stupid when people have to change the upper/lower gaskets after changing the plugs a week or two before, it is a general idea to just replace the plugs and the upper/lower gaskets. Dealer mechanic shops are cons, privates are alittle better, friends usually treat you right, and I am saying that GM intended these gaskets as general maintainence that is only separated by a few thousand miles. This is what people should do, get to know your engine...If your a mechanic and doing this short cut please tell the customer and not charge full rate!!!!!!
Short cuts can have drastic conseqences.

[RednBlack]

Would never do it to a customer! Bad for business, Boss hates it. Just from a car buff perspective, it is a good shortcut. Changed all gaskets in the engine 4000 miles ago. No need to do it when I change plugs. GM is good,but, not always right. Maybe for an average consumer. People like "us" are in their motors enough to know when to do what. By the way, I looked and if you drill a 7/8 inch hole through the cowl you could really do it fast. Or you could pull the dash out and etc. Hey Jug, I really need help on the door noise. Any input is appreciated. And I want info on the "Meet" in Bowling Green. I may just show up....not that far from me.

[pocket-rocket]

I just assemble extensions progressivly till it's high enough for a rachet to be utilzed.......

Ditto. I don't know how many times I have had plugs in and out of the car that way without stripping threads too. BTW, I would be a little hesitant to as for Ryans help since a month or so ago, a bunch of us gave him our input to his problem, but he kept dismissing any of our thoughts basically because we weren't saying what he wanted to hear. Good thing he doesn't tune his own car or he would be giving it the fuel that he wanted to give it, not what the car wanted. Anyways, here is the way I do the alt. And no, you don't have to do like most people do and drop the rear of the subframe, or unbolt the tie rod.

http://www.60degreev6.com/index.php?p=pages&pid=4

[RednBlack]

Thanx Pocket! I knew there was a better way. While I'm at it I'll do the CV joints on that side since they seem to fail fastest on FWD. Like the way you did your plug wires. I fixed my door noise! YAY!

[ryan.hess]

I just assemble extensions progressivly till it's high enough for a rachet to be utilzed.......

Ditto. I don't know how many times I have had plugs in and out of the car that way without stripping threads too. BTW, I would be a little hesitant to as for Ryans help since a month or so ago, a bunch of us gave him our input to his problem, but he kept dismissing any of our thoughts basically because we weren't saying what he wanted to hear. Good thing he doesn't tune his own car or he would be giving it the fuel that he wanted to give it, not what the car wanted. Anyways, here is the way I do the alt. And no, you don't have to do like most people do and drop the rear of the subframe, or unbolt the tie rod.

http://www.60degreev6.com/index.php?p=pages&pid=4

You're never gonna let that go, are ya? And actually, it's funny you should mention giving it fuel... because that's how I solved the stalling at idle. I told it to dump more fuel in at idle than it wanted. Same solution GM wanted, and I didn't pay $700 for their injectors :P

btw - wanna race?....... I'll have my sparkplugs out in 2 minutes flat. While you're fumbling with extensions, I'll be done already

[Juglenaut]

What do your valves look like??