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DOHC Carnage

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  • DOHC Carnage

    ..Well not exactly, but to a college kid in school with few tools...

    Here it is: The Aluminum front cover/Timing chain cover, fractured and separated. The 3.4 DOHC is in a Fiero - and so the power steering mounting point is being used as a pulley bypass. That point, the top part of the cover, and down to top idler pulley has sheered off. Meaning I no longer have the bypass pulley driving my water pump, alt., A/C, etc.. I'm 100 miles from home and determined to fix the problem on my own.

    To replace the cover, I know I will have to remove everything on the end of the motor and timing belt assembly. I have several friends willing to help and loan me the T-50 torx bit and a crank pulley puller. Once all of these things are off, I should be able to remove the cover and replace it with one I can get from a local yard, along with switching the main seals.

    My question is this: It would seem engine timing would be my greatest adversary with the motor still in the Fiero. Since the timing is already set now, and all of the timing parts are new; I was considering trying to mark the drive cog so that I could replace it after changing the front cover. Leaving the cams alone entirely. I've heard that this isn't a good idea as it would leave room for the belt to be a tooth or maybe two off. However, if I could get it within a + or - tooth, I think I would be able to drive the car home where I can attend to dropping the cradle and re timing the motor. So does marking the position of the drive cog with a marker sound feasible?

    -Paul
    Getaway cars:
    1986 Fiero SE | 2.0 OHC Turbo/Intercooled | MT2 5 Speed - 1994 Dodge Stealth | 6G72 SOHC 12v | F4a33 - 1999 Ford Windstar | 3.8 Essex | AX4S -1998 Lexus SC400 | 4.0 DOHC 1UZ | A650E

  • #2
    it will not work in the sense that the cams will just stay put, the cams will spring forward or backward when the belt is taken off. i tried it once that way.

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    • #3
      Ok, I do seem to remember said amount of play in the Carrier Cogs. Were I to mark those as well I would probably be in the operational range...well within reason of getting home to redo timing with the proper tools. Anyone please correct me if I'm wrong, or there is another obsticle to anticipate.
      Getaway cars:
      1986 Fiero SE | 2.0 OHC Turbo/Intercooled | MT2 5 Speed - 1994 Dodge Stealth | 6G72 SOHC 12v | F4a33 - 1999 Ford Windstar | 3.8 Essex | AX4S -1998 Lexus SC400 | 4.0 DOHC 1UZ | A650E

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      • #4
        Put a clamp on the cogs to hold them in place. In other words, put one foot of the clamp on the exhaust cog and the other foot on the intake cog. Tighten it up enough to hold it in place without causing problems with the cogs. You can actually tighten the clamp pretty good. That should solve this and keep the timing exact.

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