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Easiest way to get the heads off 3.4 in '95 GTP

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  • Easiest way to get the heads off 3.4 in '95 GTP

    Whats the easiest way to get the heads off? What all needs to be unbolted?

  • #2
    Everything on top of the heads comes off. You can leave the fuel rail connected to the lines, just move it out of the way. Unbolt the crossover pipe for the exhaust, and remove the front manifold from the head. Pull the rear manifold with the head, just unbolt the downpipe. Otherwise that rear one is a BITCH!

    If you have never torn down the engine, you can check the guide on the site for changing the timing belt to get you down to the carriers. After that, unbolt the cam carriers, and get ready to catch lifters when you pull them up. I use a towel to catch them before they hit the ground. The manual says to put hose under the cams to keep them from moving and pushing the lifters out, but I don't know how that does any good.

    The rear head will have 2 torx bolts bolted to it on the side from the timing belt tensioner plate. You must remove that to get the rear head off. The front head has no such trickery.
    Ben
    60DegreeV6.com
    WOT-Tech.com

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    • #3
      the hoses acctually work i have used it, but for what it does it takes to long. the hose accutally pushes the lifters on there sides so they can't move

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      • #4
        Ah, so thats what its supposed to do. The GM directions as so vague it made no sense. Ive never tried it, since the towel is easy. Reassembly is simple with moly lube on the lifters.
        Ben
        60DegreeV6.com
        WOT-Tech.com

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        • #5
          Ok, sorry to be so specific about it all. I am down to the heads, I see the eight obvious bolts on the heads. On the front manifold, is it three or six bolts? I can only see three, but im sure there are three more hiding underneath by the heat shield, and I can't even tell where the heat shield is held in at. The front manifold is bolted into the crossover near the front right, 3 bolts? That should remove the front head I think.
          Rear one, same obvious eight bolts, unbolt the downpipe, and the two torx bolts and its free?
          First time i've gone this far into an engine and Im new to the whole thing, sorry about the newbieness of it all ;p

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          • #6
            The front heat shield is held on by 3 nuts underneath. After those are off, the shield will come off and you have 3 more nuts (or studs with them if they come with the nut) to get the manifold off. You need to do this becase of the oil tube. Crossover is 3 bolts front and 3 bolts rear. Youwill need a LONG extension or a bunch of shorter ones to pull it. You might be able to leave it connected to the rear even...but ive never tried that.

            Im going from memory but that sounds like thats all there is to it now.
            Ben
            60DegreeV6.com
            WOT-Tech.com

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            • #7
              Originally posted by SappySE107
              If you have never torn down the engine, you can check the guide on the site for changing the timing belt to get you down to the carriers. After that, unbolt the cam carriers, and get ready to catch lifters when you pull them up. I use a towel to catch them before they hit the ground. The manual says to put hose under the cams to keep them from moving and pushing the lifters out, but I don't know how that does any good.
              You can't use a magnetic pickup tool to remove the lifters before removing the cam carriers? Never torn down a 3.4 DOHC before, just that's how i did it on my volvo..

              Cliff Scott
              89 BerettaGT
              89 Volvo740
              Cliff Scott
              89 BerettaGT
              04 AleroGX

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              • #8
                I saw in the shop manual the trick for keeping the lifters in place when removing the head.

                So once you get the head out of the car, what do you need to do to have the head decked? Remove all the lifters? Anything else?

                I may end pulling the heads on my 95 3.4 dohc this winter, and between the shop manual and this forum, I am trying to learn all I can before I start taking things apart.
                1995 Cutlass Supreme
                3.4 dohc

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                • #9
                  Aint trying to be an ass but those lifters will be "self removing". Soon as you lift up on the cam carrier the bitches will play hide and go seek with you! They go every where unless you do the towel thing above.
                  2004 Grand Am GT 3400 ... I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability.(Ron White)

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                  • #10
                    yea and if u have a concrete slab or smooth surface 1 out of 24 will roll a long ways away from the rest and u will be like where the f**k is it?
                    The Official Rotating Mass Nazi

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                    • #11
                      This sounds like it will be fun, thanks for the info.
                      1995 Cutlass Supreme
                      3.4 dohc

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                      • #12
                        out of curiosity how easily will the threads on the heads get destroyed?

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                        • #13
                          Whad ya mean destroyed?
                          2004 Grand Am GT 3400 ... I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability.(Ron White)

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                          • #14
                            as in stripped

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                            • #15
                              for the lower intake? Well, its real easy if you are pocket-rocket and try to put 250 foot pounds on the bolts. Otherwise, its not just gonna strip out on you if you follow the torque specs.
                              Ben
                              60DegreeV6.com
                              WOT-Tech.com

                              Comment

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