camshaft, timing, and timing belt help

[funair8594]

Man----stop right where you are and time the whole thing again.
I know what you did and it isnt good. It very easy to do, and you dont even know you did it. Im going off what you stated....

When I pulled the pin on the tensioning device, the belt is still lose and flappy around the top idler pulley where the belt has to come up to the intake cams. When I cranked the car up and idle you can see the belt jittering right there. It doesn't jump off anything but it doesn't look like something that would last 60k miles. This is the longest span the belt makes but it just seems like it didn't tighten up right

I've found that this is a pretty important step You need to pull up on the t-belt tensioner pully pretty hard when you have the flats tools in. Get a mirror and look under the pulley, you'll see the socket that the tensioner actuator is supposed to fit into. This does not line up correctly untill you pull the tensioner up. I had a friend with a 1/2 drive and something like a 1/2 in socket on the tension pulling it up. Not HARD but firm. Then with a mirror, make sure you are lined up. You'll see what I mean. The shaft of the actuator comes out into a perfect spot on the tensioner flange. If you dont do this, I may still look like its lined up, but it isnt and like you said it isnt that tight. What may be happening and the some of the ticking you are hearing, is that the actuator is actually resting on the tensioner PULLEY itself. Grinding and flapping around.
Sooooo...I've got to say that I'm part of this BTDT club

Also, the cross threadding is, well, could be bad or repairable. If you want to try and repair it, the elcheapo, and I strees elcheapo, way of fixing it is to clean the thread you good with steel wool, spray it down with carb cleaner and use JB weld or Loctite (not too much) and put the bolt back in. Make sure you let it dry before you put any stress on the bolt.
You should re-thread with a tap if you can.

[SappySE107]

The manual calls for very little pressue to pull up on the nub on the tensioner to set it. If it isnt lined to from the very begining, you shouldn't stretch the belt out to fix it. I have had to pull the belt/tensioner a few times once when I tried to get it to line up with the notch in the pulley.

[95z34]

Thank God for all your help. I know you don't have to reply and you are going out of your way to help and I thank you. I just got done doing it the second time. I didn't readjust the timing cause I still didn't quite understand that procedure, but I was able to rethread the hole and get the bolt to go in and tighten up on the idler pulleys. The only problem is the little hole on the block the tensioner actuator is suppose to rest in is completely gone! I don't know what happened but its broke off. But, once i got the marble/nub in the grove/socket part of the tensioning pulley everything tighten up real tight and it looks like its going to hold even though that part it missing. I cranked the car up again and it sounds great except for ticking is still there. So I'm confused, I didn't think a overhead cam motor had lifters. I let the car idle for 10 minutes and the noise is still there. Do you think I can finish putting the cover on and say its ok to drive now. By the way the idle and engine sound good, no lope or anything, the only audible sound now is the ticking. Thanks.

[95z34]

Oh, I finally got it fixed and I was able to do it without taking the motor apart. Its acutally pretty easy. Put the motor at TDC for the #1 piston and watch as all the yellow factory timing marks line up. well when you pull the belt the cam gears don't wanna jump in every direction but they will if you make them. You start the belt on the drive gear at the bottom and route it to the exhaust cam on the front bank. Take your ratchet and socket and advance the gear just a tad bit and line the teeth of the belt into the gear and flip your button on your ratchet and pull counterclockwise to take the slack out. (Not to tough of the gear will jump to a another position. Well doing this I worked my way all the way around to the tensioner and put it and the actuator in last. It might sound hard but it was pretty easy and everything worked out great. It only took 20 minutes to do it the second time. (with the ps and tb cover and coolant recovery already removed). I had a light ticking when I cranked it for the first time in a week but it went away after a 15 minute drive.

[Juglenaut]

Original Archive!!!!

I have an original copy of procedure from:

jasonz34 page 1-15

DON'T USE LINK below unless you want to get redirected.

http://www.60degreev6.com/members/jasonz34/

NoN working link!!!!!!!
Got a copy before the switch over. I can digitize it into a picture that is reprintable with little to no loss of quality.

Unless this is archived some where that I don't know about.