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pulling 3.4, Grand Prix

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  • pulling 3.4, Grand Prix

    Ok guys im stumped on this one. Ive pretty much gotten everything taken care of besides the rear trans to engine bracket and the alternator wires.


    When I put this thing in, i did it from the bottom and it was cake. Now im trying it do it from the top, engine only. has anyone ever done this, and did you have to remove the passenger side axle to get to the alt lines? Ive yanked a 3.1 and a 3100 from the top, it was super easy.. but the 3.4, not so much.

    If its going to be this difficult, i may just drop the cradle again.. it was a breeze working on the assembly while on the cradle.

    Ben, especially if you've done this, id like to talk to you on the phone about it since im having to do this twice (GP and the donor Monte on saturday)
    I modify stuff

  • #2
    Well, its 1:35 am and I just woke up:P

    Im used to the manual trans...which makes life a little easier. Can't say I recall pulling the DOHC without the trans though. Gotta pull the brake resevoir to make that easy. GM recommends out the bottom in their video, so if you can jack it up high enough to do so, it may be your best bet.
    Ben
    60DegreeV6.com
    WOT-Tech.com

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    • #3
      there's a video on how to yank a DOHC?

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      • #4
        I WANT THAT VIDEO!!! I will pay $$$ or can you make me a copy?

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        • #5
          i have pulled the engine through the top quite a few times. usually it is pretty easy. the key is the engine assy has to come out on an angle. center the chain and make it exactly 4 links more to the passenger side mount, so the passenger side it much higher than the driver's side. should be cake after that.

          i do not think you can seperate them while they are in the car. even if you could it would be so hard to put them back together in the car it would be ridiculous.

          as far as your axle question, there are 2 ways. messy, meassy 2 and clean. messy is much easier but u simple pry the axles out of the tranny and leave them in the car but all your fluid will go everywhere. you can prevent this by draining the fluid.

          messy 2 is just as easy but instead of prying the axles out, you seperate the axles at the u-joints and nasty grease will ooze everywhere.

          clean is the hardest, you have to remove the axles completely which usually requires some suspension disassembly as well on one side.
          The Official Rotating Mass Nazi

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          • #6
            I ended up pulling from the bottom on both the donor and the patient.. it really is sooo much easier, then you have the entire assembly on a nice frame to work on instead of doing it on an engine stand. (just remember to disconnect the pinch bolt on the steering rack u-joint!)

            Now onto ordering parts. Isnt there a discount somewhere for rockauto?
            I modify stuff

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            • #7
              I pulled just the engine from the top. It was a complete PITA. If you are doing it by yourself I would highly suggest you not go this route. It required me guiding the engine as my friend lowered it down.
              92 cutty auto with a 97 3.4

              93 convert with 3.4

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              • #8
                The steering rack is the biggest problem in trying to get the cradle back in the car. I dropped the cradle on mine to get the engine out originally, but upon seeing how difficult it would be to reattach the rack I took the engine off the cradle, put the cradle back in from the bottom, reattached the rack, and then put the engine back in from the top. I honestly can't imagine trying to do that with the engine on the cradle, it was hard enough without the engine in the way.

                Can that pinch bolt on the steering rack be tightened with the engine in the car? I didn't tighten mine enough when I put the cradle back in, and now I've got some slop in the steering. I felt around inside that boot but I couldn't find it, and I'm about ready to pull the motor back out to get it tight.

                -D

                92 ASC GTP - 3.4 5sp, HUD, DIC, AQ9's
                88 Fiero GTs - L32 3.4 5sp & ZZ430 5.7 SBC V8 5sp (the twins) L32 -> LQ1 swap is underway
                6sp LS1 Corvette Roadster (parts getter)
                '99 Expedition (tow truck)
                '09 G8 (new toy)

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                • #9
                  Its a whore but yes, you can do it with the engine in there cause I have done it. You gotta get that boot off and pushed up a far as possible. I haven't tried it but maybe you can get the boot up off the spring tension, and then pull up from the inside to get more room? You will need to turn the wheel sothat you can get it it as well (have it facing the bolt head out). Probably want someone to turn the wheel unless you wanna move/check/repeat a couple times.
                  Ben
                  60DegreeV6.com
                  WOT-Tech.com

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                  • #10
                    when i did my oil pump...

                    i left the rack attached to column and tie rods attached to the spindles, and just popped the ball joints, motor mounts, the 2 rack mounts, and the p/s cooler line clamps and dropped the cradle (with engine supported from above of course) and everything, rack included, hung there and cradle went right back in position.

                    i've disconnected the rack and dropped with the cradle too, and its easier do leave it hang.

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                    • #11
                      Ive done this 3 times now with removing the steering ujoint pinch bolt. It is possible (however a huge pain in the ass) to slip the boot up and away from that area enough to give you access to the bolt. You will need a fairly long extension and someone inside to align the wheel so you can get to it.
                      I modify stuff

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                      • #12
                        Did you do it from above or below? I was attempting it from below, but you mentioned a long extension and got me to wondering.

                        92 ASC GTP - 3.4 5sp, HUD, DIC, AQ9's
                        88 Fiero GTs - L32 3.4 5sp & ZZ430 5.7 SBC V8 5sp (the twins) L32 -> LQ1 swap is underway
                        6sp LS1 Corvette Roadster (parts getter)
                        '99 Expedition (tow truck)
                        '09 G8 (new toy)

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                        • #13
                          Took the intake off and attacked it from the top. I attached an 11mm socket to all the extensions in my toolbox and the longest 3/8" ratchet I had, and torqued down as hard as I could on that pinchbolt, then spun the tie rods around until my steering wheel was straight. Problem solved.

                          92 ASC GTP - 3.4 5sp, HUD, DIC, AQ9's
                          88 Fiero GTs - L32 3.4 5sp & ZZ430 5.7 SBC V8 5sp (the twins) L32 -> LQ1 swap is underway
                          6sp LS1 Corvette Roadster (parts getter)
                          '99 Expedition (tow truck)
                          '09 G8 (new toy)

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                          • #14
                            Did it from the bottom, drivers side wheel and splash guard removed
                            I modify stuff

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