3.4 DOHC Flats Up Exhaust or Compression Position?

[somebodystopme!!]

Here is my situation. I have a 93' Cutlass Supreme Convertible I just picked up for a song. I did a few minor things to it and it was quickly brought back to life. However I shredded a timing belt and am now in the process of changing it and I believe i have a problem that has not been addressd yet on this forum.

I made my own flats tools for the cams and used a harmonic balancer puller to get the front two cam gears removed and lock rings taken out. However on the firewall side head there is no room for the gear puller.

My question is this:

Since the rear bank is locked in with flats up and the front bank is free spinning, (also with flats up) can I place the belt on with the #4 cylinder on TDC Compression stroke then Take off the rear flats tool, spin the motor 360* and lock in the front bank?

So is the flats up a compression or exhaust position on the cam carrier?

Any other solutions to my tightwadded problem of not wanted to for out serious dogh for tools I plan on only using once?

[series8217]

There is no difference between compression and exhaust TDC on this motor since spark fires on both strokes. Just make sure each bank of cylinders is opposite.

[SappySE107]

You need the correct puller to get the rear locks out, or at the very least, the intake. You can go off 1 being locked in place (it repeats after the stretch performed manually on the tensioner pulley), but I don't know about lining the teeth up for both at the same time. You may want to pull your rear bank off and take the locks out that way. Yes, it sucks but it is going to be less of a headache imo, than trying to time it with both lockrings in on the back bank.

[somebodystopme!!]

Well I figured I would chance my ineptitude and go ahead and install as I stated above since I didn't want to pull off the rear cam carrier. I installed the belt around the locked rear cams and left the from bank released. Spun everything around TIghtened up the front bank when the rear flats were down. Put everything back together and VIOLA.. Purrs like a kitten.... Boy I said a prayer after that one. Not something I want to do again.

Not neccasarily a problem but I noticed my temp always ran right at 200 and never moved before. After the Timing Belt replacement the temp is jumping between 210-250 (estimated from idiot guage) also the fan on the left side of the engine compartment when looking straight on does not come on.

The fan motors do work as I unplugged the low coolant sensor and both fans came on and stayed on as they should.

I drove the car for about a half hour on the hwy and in town but it never got higher than the 250ish mark.

So what gives? anyone ever run into this before?

[z34phoenix]

the second fan will come on if you have the AC on. they are each controled by the computer. on my 96 the 1fan comes on at 212*f and the 2nd comes on at 226*f those are the stock turn on times.

i would deff be runing a 180* thermostat in these motors. also you can always run a relay to have the second fan come on when the first does. i did that before i had my tuner. now i just reflash the computer if i want to mess with the fans.

[somebodystopme!!]

What tuner do you use to reflash your computer? Is is an actual tuner or do you use a laptop and go through your obd port?

[BlueFlame]

z34pheonix is running OBD2, where as your Cutlass should be running OBD1

[somebodystopme!!]

Tis true, I am an archaic OBD 1 man....