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Help Please Engine Problem!!!!

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  • #16
    ohhhhh... hehe too late for the warnings i already moved the valve pindel and soked it in alcohole jeje.. im guessing its the same problem since iv been plaing araund with plugin and unpluging it and it did the same thing you said that the idle stayed normal for like 10 minutes.. and the when i pluged it back in it started reving high.. sometimes when i unpluged it it just reved high where the rev limiter cuts off.. im going to see if i can replace it? Any idea if there are any other cars that have this same part that i could find here in spain.. im guessing like Jeep, Opel ,Vauxhal or Saab which are from GM

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    • #17
      I called a friend at a GM dealer and he has the part number for the IAC valve listed as 17112349. He said it fits X vin engines from 1991-1995 only and made it sound like it was a pretty model specific part. You might have a hard time finding one that works off anything but a 3.4 DOHC just like yours. If you unplugged it with your car idleing fine and it didn't jump to 2000, then jumped to 2000 when you plugged it back in then the IAC might very well be it. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it now that it's most likely been damaged now anyway. Good luck, let me know how it goes.

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      • #18
        You should be able to use an GM IAC. I have never heard of any of them being engine specific.
        -Brad-
        89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
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        Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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        • #19
          ok looks like its the IAC... i took it apart and had peaces of plastick all over the place.. im not to shure of how it works but i think its a little motor and the pindel is like a screw and the motor screws and unscrews to move it in and out.. and when you screw it in you can easly pull it out like if the screw was eaten up... anywas i tryed with the battery if it worked and it did like it trys to move a bit and its like stuck you can here like somthing trying to work but wont move..

          for now i got it to stay stuck with the valve closed and unpluged it so its not accelerated though now the car wont start unless you accelerate a bit and somtimes it stalls when i put in drive or the AC but at least i can drive it till i get the new part..

          Ok thanks guys for all the help i realy apreciate it... ill keep in touch when i get the new part if the problem gets fixed....

          Now........ if you guys want to keep on helping me out.. i still got the bad cilinder problem hehehhe

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          • #20
            iv been looking trough the internet and found this

            http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-Vauxha...QQcmdZViewItem



            its from the make Opel or Vauxhale (there the same cars) and it fits almost all there model.. this make is from GM so i dont know if it may fit on this car.. this was on ebay it says that the part number is
            08187
            171081876
            17111946
            17113196
            817256
            826548
            826550

            ill see tomorow if i can go look at the part and see if it could work or not
            though by the part number that Carlspike told me i dont think it will be the same

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            • #21
              I put in part #17112349 at Gmpartsdirect.com and it's $56.97 from there. That is actually pretty good, I paid that much for an aftermarket one even with a discount. I'm not sure if they'll ship to Spain or not. The Ebay listing says it's a Vauxhall part number, so the GM number I gave you may or may not match. I'm not too familiar with how those things work.


              Edit:Gmpartsdirect won't ship international. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/ these guys have an IAC for your car for $66.95 plus shipping and they will ship internationally. The IAC is under the fuel injection section.
              Last edited by Carlspike; 01-03-2007, 05:39 PM.

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              • #22
                ok i started the car this morning AND AGAIN WITH THE SAME F"(&!ÑG PROBLEM... i give up..
                im going to take everthing apart tomorow and see what the hell is wrong maybe the timing belt and the timing accedently got advanced (i checked it twice before puting it all together) and may be messeing up the computer or something.. since it started to do all this after i changed the timing belt..

                i dont know!!
                my famaliy not even my dad or my granfather which where mecanics knows what the problem can be.. and no one here fixis this cars either... im lost with this car
                its to strange... i dont know where to look becouse it does this problem when it wants to...

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                • #23
                  It would be a good idea to check the timing belt if didn't act up before you had it apart. Did you ever change the IAC? Since you suspect it's bad I would change it/rule it out as a problem before going further. I scanned 2 pages from my Chilton's book that may help you out. Gimme your e-mail and I'll send them to you.

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                  • #24
                    here my email is nick_671@hotmail.com no i havent changed the IAC yet though yesterday it looked like it was that becaouse everytime y changed somthing there the idle would change and i left it idleing at 800 rpm and went for a drive started and stoped the engine many times iv been practicaly all day with the car i even let it cool down and started it up again and worked perfectly... and now this morning the idle is at 2500 3000 rpm and doing what i did yesterday changed nothing.. i also took out the throttle position sensor that is right under it to see if it was that but looks like its working with no problem.. im now guesseing that it could be the belt or the computer that is messed up... i dont know.. it has to be somthing electrical becouse if it where a vacume leak or somthing it would be a problem that happens always or at a certin temperature..... hey thanx for the trouble of scaning the pages..

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                    • #25
                      hey i just read this thread..
                      http://60degreev6.com/archive/index.php?t-26661.html
                      its pretty much the same problems i have
                      it says that to fix it he changed the O2 sensor and that it had a broken Power Steering pressure switch...

                      what are these parts.. where is the O2 sensor and the Power Steering pressure switch and how can i fix o check them???

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                      • #26
                        I sent you the pages just now. The O2 sensor should be on the exhaust pipe, I dunno about the pressure switch. There is a way to test the O2, I don't have time now but I'll try and mail it to you later.

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                        • #27
                          also if parts are your problem, there are many members on here with parts floating around that could sell you some of their surplus for a very good price (especially when you factor in the exchane rate) and send them to you.

                          i personally do not have any, i actually either gave or threw away 90% of my surplus a while back.

                          just something to think about .
                          The Official Rotating Mass Nazi

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                          • #28
                            ok iv been anilaizing a bit.. and i think that the car beeing acelerated is becaus the computer trys to stabelize the engine since it has a dead cilinder.. i think its this becouse today i started the car and ideled perfectly and the cilinder wasent failing so i drove and also discovered thet the cilinder starts deing out when i leave the car ideling(this has to be an injecter problem) so when it fails the engine automaticly starts to rev up and stays like that till it goes away a cuple of days later..

                            when it starts failing there is no way to make it stop not even reving the engine or anything.. as long as the engine starts without failing and you dont leave it ideling for a long time it works perfactly and the idel is perfect...
                            now ill try and see what the problem with the cilinder is..

                            im guessing its an injector or a valve lash that gets stuck and leaves a valve open...

                            note: i bought the car with a broken timing belt (but i changed the timing belt and worked fine though i never had it running for too long becouse one of the pullys was broken but it still had the cilinder problem but not the high idle..it was after i changed the pullys when i started getting this idle problem)

                            so maybe a piston hit a valve and broke the automatic lash or somthing...
                            when i checked the engine nothing was bent and there where no sings of any valves beening hit..

                            ohh and thanks Carlspike for all the truble off scaning the pages and sending them to me.. and i already had in mind about buying surplus parts from people here in the forum.. ill let u guys know if i need any parts..

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                            • #29
                              I've never heard of a dead cylinder causing a high idle. I suppose it's not entirely impossible, but I don't think your computer would try to compensate with a sky high idle. If you have one cylinder completely dead the engine would most likely shake like crazy going down the road. I believe the 1992 3.4 was non interference (does somebody else know for sure?) if that is the case then your valves should be fine. If a problem is intermittent than it's most likely not a dead cylinder. Since the car doesn't act up all the time I'm guessing some kinda of sensor or a computer problem.

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                              • #30
                                Re: high idle on z34's

                                Take a can of carb spray and spray it along where the intake gasket is right behind the front head while the engine is running, if the intake is leaking the engine will try to die when carb spray is sprayed. I have seen many of these issues and 90% of high idle on these are due to leaking intake gaskets.

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