Is it worth it?

[GTP_MuNkY]

As some of you may already know I recently had some issues with coolant dumping into my engine. The oil came out looking like chocolate milk. I priced out the new gasket kit $226 and figured I should probably do the timing belt while i have the top of the engine apart, priced that out today (using part numbers in the Cam Timing Walk through) $733.90, for a total of $959.90 plus taxes, and this is if I do the work myself!! (the wreckers quoted me $950-$1200 on a new engine that they garentee to run)
After I get all that work done, I'm still at risk of blowing out the bearings am I not? (thinking coolant may of stripped them of their protective coverings) not to mention the timing on this engine has me scared $h**less
I dunno what to do and I would really appreiciate some input here. Another option for me would be an L67 swap, but that too is a lot of money and work.

*edit*
should I maybe just do the gaskets and leaving the timing belt stuff for later if the engine survives? I just hate the thought of ripping into this engine again and again...

Jamie

[SappySE107]

Get someone in the states to get you all the gaskets and parts. It seems canada has a huge mark up on these parts. It shouldn't cost more than 500 US for a complete gasket kit and all the timing parts. Honestly it should be around 400-450.

[GTP_MuNkY]

why is it that all those additional parts are recommended when changing the timing belt?

Jamie

[SappySE107]

Because they fail just like a belt.

[Mach10]

Depends how long the engine has sat with water in it. Coolant isn't quite so bad;

Drain the coolant, drain the oil. Change filter

Throw in CLEAN new oil. Something lightweight.

Run the motor for about 1 minutes with NO COOLANT.

This should flush the water out of the sensitive spots.

You could run a motor with pure water and not scrub the bearings, if it were not for the fact that everything would rust solid as soon as you let everything cool down, and that water isn't viscous enough to stay put when loaded. Oh, and it'd boil off right away...

Don't use pure water.

The point is that water in the oil doesn't cause the bearings to melt; too much water means that it gets squeezed out of the bearings when loaded (high rpm, high load, whatever) causing metal-to-metal contact (which does strip the coating off. It also spot-rusts the crank and allows the bearings to oxidize, creating rough spots that score the reciprocating surfaces, and create hot spots (stress points.)

If you flush the water out and don't let it sit with water in the bearings, you should be OK.

Make sure you change your oil again after the gasket's are done. And then again within 200km or so. MAKE DAMN SURE that you run the car AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE for at least a few 20-minute periods to boil off any condensation or residual water. The glycol will pass out with the oil, but shouldnt harm the bearings.

[GTP_MuNkY]

Sounds like I should be in the clear then, I drained all the oil within a week of the incedent happening and it was run with no coolant in it.

So I'm thinking I will just worry about gaskets right now and if the engine lives long enough to justify a new belt then I'll do that.

Thanx for the input guys
much apreiciated

Jamie

[grandprixgtp_91]

you might have a bad pcv hose, i had a bad one slightly worn from rubbing on the intake and it made the oil milky.

Jake