Took my stock airbox out today, now I have lots of questions

[GTP_MuNkY]

In the very near future I plan to build my own cold air intake, originally planned to be a fenderwell intake, I don't want to move my battery so I am seeking other options. So today I pulled the entire assembly and tried to figure something out that would work for me. While doing this I came up with a number of questions. I don't expect any one person to have all the answers, but I'm hoping that the combined knowledge of this forum can give me a better understanding of what I'm up against.
I've taken some pics to better assist me in describing my questions.


1. Is this the MAF screan I have heard about people removing? And what are the risks/advantages of doing so?


2. Just after the MAF assembly there is another sensor in the ducts, what is this and what will happen if I move it?


3. Along with the plug for the MAF and that other sensor, there is also this plug coming out of the same wiring harness, however it was not attached to anything. Any clue what it is or where it belongs?


4. Just before the TB there is what looks to me like a vaccuum line. Is this what I think it is, and do I have to keep it there when I make the new intake?


5. My new idea, rather than moving the battery, is to run a new intake pipe through the rad support and go behind the headlights. The only road block I seem to hit is this hole is not big enough. My guess is its a bad idea to widen the hole for a 3 or 4 inch pipe to go through...no? Another option could be to go to a drier duct to get through that hole, provinding there are no kinks in it, the area of the hole should remain the same

Just playing around I got a couple chip containers and chopped them up, although a little smaller than I would like to use, something like this may work. the advantage of the drier duct would be I could use the entire space of the hole, this little mock up only uses about half of it, a little less than the stock airbox snout lets through.



6. Aside from this and keeping the MAF sensor in the same general place, is there anything else I should keep in mind while building this thing. I will most likely also be adapting this idea to a friends 92 GP 3.1L.

The place I have chosen for the filter (just under the headlights) does not seem to get much splashing of water, as we just finished with winter here and you can see where the splashing goes for the most part by the mud and salt stains on the back side of the bumper.

Thanx, any help would be greatly apprieciated

Jamie

[dohcfiend]

1. yes that is the maf screen and as far as i know the debate on the effects of removing it(pro's and con's) is all speculation for the moment. i'd say go for it.

2. that is called an intake air temp sensor. self explanitory. i believe it it is unplugged, your car will run rich.

3. had the same thing on my old lumi. don't know what it does really.

4. it is part of your pcv system, it would be a good idea to include that in your air intake.

5. probably take some cutting to get it done.

back when i did a CAI, i ran it down to the large inlet in the bumper(where the rad draws in air from). instead of the usually gay filter at the end that gets dirty in about 50 miles, i elected to enclose and seal it using sheetmetal. mine was almost a RAM air intake but functioned very well as a CAI. intake air temps dropped quite a bit afterwards.

but a gp is a good car for a cai if u do not mind cutting a little. id try to see if i could try to run it to those 2 little grills in the front if i were you.

[GTP_MuNkY]

but a gp is a good car for a cai if u do not mind cutting a little. id try to see if i could try to run it to those 2 little grills in the front if i were you.

My girlfriend suggested the exact same thing, but I just went out and the amount of piping that would be required to get the filter there would abliterate any performance gains. There is too much stuff in the way and the rad is just too big, otherwise that would be a great idea.
I was thinking that I would box in the filter with some plastic or sheet metal and put a scoop under the car, maybe even one that I could open wider from the drivers seat using a radio control car servo...

About #5...my main concern with cutting it is structural...otherwise I would of been out there with the die grinder and a small cutting wheel today, lol. My worry is that I'm going to cut it and over time the car will warp outta shape. Next thing you know the cars a write off cause I cut 2 square inches out of it, thats the way my luck goes. I suppose I could cut it and then weld in a steel ring to strengthen it back up....hmmmm now I'm thinking...

Jamie

[dohcfiend]

on the grills, it was just off the top of my head. umm go for what i did and run it into the rad intake.

as for the structual integrity....just don't get into an accident and you will not have to worry about it .

[Husky]

That little red wire you had there is the fuel pump test lead IIRC. Nothing to worry about. It is there for diagnostic work I think. The MAF screen doesn't need to be removed, but you can tune without it so if you want to you can, just get ready to tune. Someone on the national clubgp boards proved that it provides very little resistance to flow and that it can flow way more air than the engine needs, but whatever. It's there to stabilize air going into the MAF so that the MAF gets a better reading on the amount of air into the engine.

[HayesPerformance]

That Plastic line is....

Hey Husky,

That med. sized Black plastic line going into the intake duct is where the crankcase sucks in fresh air into the crankcase. It ducts it to the front and rear valve cover, it run to a "T" Connector on the right side of the rear valve cover (Right when looking at the engine from the front of the car) and runs along the back of the intake and valvecover then comes all the way ahead to the front valvecover.

You can REMOVE THE WHOLE THING (Plastic Tubing to the Valvecovers) and REPLACE IT with some small round Crankcase Ventilation Filters. You need two with 3/8 I.D. size hole. You also need some metal or aluminum tubing and 3/8 hole and clamps for it to work.
K&N is the one I use on these engines.
Its a K&N #62-1320
IF YOU NEED PICTURES FOR AN EXAMPLE LET ME KNOW. I have a GP with that set up here.
One problem that occurs with that long plastic line is it sometime gets partially blocked obstructing fresh air from being sucked in.

Best Regards,
Dave

[GTP_MuNkY]

ohhh, pics would be very nice, I think that would be easier than taking it off my new intake...
That would be much appreiciated

Jamie

[HayesPerformance]

and



And save you Drilling a hole in your intake.

By the way there is a Self-contained Cone filter with round air box in 3 sizes for universal applications made by GREEN FILTERS.

Its called there "Twister Cold Air Intake" Part #'s 2514, 2505, and 2501
There web site is: www.greenfilterusa.com

If you don't have any where close you can buy it, let me know we sell there line.

Regards,
David

[HayesPerformance]

PICS!!!!!!!

Hey GTP_Munky,

Here are the pics of the small breathers I was telling you about. The Aluminum tubing that I ran to the rear valve cover you can clearly see but, it just runs from the rear valve cover and through the lower side of the intake.

Dave



HERE IS THE FRONT ONE.
LIKE MY CUSTOM TAYLORING ON MY MSD WIRES??????





HERE IS THE REAR.

[tijuana_no]

hayes,that is nice i notice that when you posted the pic's of the msd coils.and i aked the porpose ,know i now.looks nice and i will try it.also what you think of the green filter that you mention have you use them ,how will they work with owr engines ,what to expect .

[RednBlack]

No offence, but just exactly what does that gain? Looks neat. PCV system still work the way it was designed?

[HayesPerformance]

First off the Green filters are fine to use. The reason for me mentioning thm is because of the UNIVERSAL cone filter with a round airbox for Custom applications where you want to make a custom air intake. Here are the pics of the one I mentioned earlier.



As for the reason for using the small round K&N Crankcase Filters is that for some reason on the 3.4 DOHC's the LONG PVC line joining the front and rear valve covers to the air intake tube over time became cloged with oily goop that over time you would have to clean out to maintain the free flow of fresh air in to the crankcase.
What came to our attention though was that for some reason, at certain RPM's the vacuum on the Crankcase freash air duct was greater than the vacuum on the PCV side causing cankcase vapors and very small amounts of oil to be suck out of the valve covers and into the engine through the throttle body. ( This would happen with NEW hose, NO leaks, and a NEW PCV) We had never experienced this before on other engines. Thats what lead to us doing what you see in the pictures.

As a note: The Crankcase Ventalation System works perfectly now on any of the 3.4 DOHC's we did this on.
By the way, on these 3.4 DOHC's that were doing this, you could see a faint trail of a pattern on oil/ oily vapors had been being sucked in the intake ON THE INSIDE OF THE RUBBER INTAKE DUCT Where the PVC Line goes in.

Go a head and check yours. At least make sure that you keep that PVC Tube CLEAN!

Best regards to ALL,
Dave