Well she's finally gave in on me today.. had it for 4 years now and it's been threw hell and back a dozen times. I have drove the absolute dog shit out of this car and all my friends give me shit on how it's lasted this long. Well I'm not junking it and not selling it. Don't care how long it takes and don't have much money but I can get little by little. I'm going need a lot of help on complete engine rebuild from top to bottom. I'm aware I'll need machine help which I'll pay to get that stuff done. But if anyone could go ahead start dropping any links with info on rebuilding it, any videos you know of, any advice, just anything that would help me get this baby back alive again. It would be much appreciated thanks. Ty
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
BLOWN 95 3.4l dohc Monte help please
Collapse
X
-
Complete engine rebuilf? How about starting by describing WHAT EXACTLY HAPPENED?
Do you have a rod knock? Hole in the block? Timing belt problem? No compression in one or more holes? No oil pressure? Something else? What are the symptoms?
I've valve-jobbed a couple pair of heads. Couldn't be easier. The intake valves need almost nothing, clean-up with .002 or less cut off. The exhaust valves look like crap, need .005 taken out. Replacement valves aren't as concentric as the originals, which really stinks. All four heads I dicked-with needed NO seat-cutting at all. Looked beautiful. Had to do some touch-up on two exhaust seats using a valve grinding stone--but I turned it by hand. That's how nearly-perfect they were.
All the heads were slightly warped. I had the head gasket surface cut 0.015 on all of them.
Depending on the model year and VIN number, you may or may not need to modify the camshafts for oil routing. Was a service bulletin for the LQ1 that applies up to '95 for certain vehicles. Details used to be at the following link, but I suspect all that got wiped-out during the upgrade. I get nothing at the former web address:
I'd expect the bottom-end to be fairly rugged; although of course anything can happen; and the pistons are cast not forged.Last edited by Schurkey; 10-27-2016, 08:02 PM.^ some people may call this guy an asshole at times, but he isn't wrong very often -- Robert
-
Originally posted by Schurkey View PostComplete engine rebuilf? How about starting by describing WHAT EXACTLY HAPPENED?
Do you have a rod knock? Hole in the block? Timing belt problem? No compression in one or more holes? No oil pressure? Something else? What are the symptoms?
I've valve-jobbed a couple pair of heads. Couldn't be easier. The intake valves need almost nothing, clean-up with .002 or less cut off. The exhaust valves look like crap, need .005 taken out. Replacement valves aren't as concentric as the originals, which really stinks. All four heads I dicked-with needed NO seat-cutting at all. Looked beautiful. Had to do some touch-up on two exhaust seats using a valve grinding stone--but I turned it by hand. That's how nearly-perfect they were.
All the heads were slightly warped. I had the head gasket surface cut 0.015 on all of them.
Depending on the model year and VIN number, you may or may not need to modify the camshafts for oil routing. Was a service bulletin for the LQ1 that applies up to '95 for certain vehicles. Details used to be at the following link, but I suspect all that got wiped-out during the upgrade. I get nothing at the former web address:
I'd expect the bottom-end to be fairly rugged; although of course anything can happen; and the pistons are cast not forged.
Comment
-
Pretty sure it won't turn out to be a rocker arm.
Consider running the engine with the serpentine belt removed. If the knock/screech is in the alternator or A/C compressor, it'll be gone when you remove the belt. Don't run too long, as you'll have no water pump. 30 seconds would be fine, and plenty long enough to find out if it's engine knock or accessory knock.^ some people may call this guy an asshole at times, but he isn't wrong very often -- Robert
Comment
Comment