New Engine Break In

[pbui3057]

I just installed my motor and now need to know how to break it in. Also how long of a break in period do I need? It was a brand new crate motor and I want to be able to keep it for a while. I see different things on the internet about proper break in. One says drive it like you stole it and others say to baby it. Anyone know what the proper way is? I also want to switch to Synthetic oil after the break in period. Thanks.

[406Z26]

Here you go....http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Oh, and this is not a joke either.

[dykz34]

I've heard that beating the piss out of it is the best break-in too. I've heard that you should do three back-to-back HARD 3rd gear pulls. (Of course this was coming from a 5spd DSM owner)

[Anonymous]

3rd gear in my firends TSi Talon redlined at 85, mine is at 95, so not too much difference. This is a controversial topic, and I think what it came down to is a motor will make more power over a long time when it is broken in fast and hard, but won't last as long. I tried to find a median. I did it on the street, and for the first 500mi, I kept it below 60mph and below 5,000. However I did get semi hard on the gas, probly about 90%, and went to 5500-6k once or twice. Not racing, just accelerating. Obviously in 2nd cuz 3rd would go above 60. This has worked fine so far, the motor just PURRS at idle, no click even RIGHT when I start it. And power is definately there, bowtiekid was like "yah that helped" when I gave him a ride in the new motor. It didn't have as much after 6k, but this was also back to the factory chip. Then I got Bens chip back in and it will again pull right to 7.

[pocket-rocket]

Those pics of those pistons are amazing, lol. It makes sense the way they say it works in that article too. So technically running a boosted engine hard for the first 20 minutes like they say would give you an extremely good break in, lol.

[White93z34]

as far as oil goes this is what i've been told works the best
first 500 miles regualr dino-oil
next 3000 regular dino oil
next 3000 synthetic blend
next 3000 full synthetic

and durring break in don't be affriad to get on it once and awhile but don't railroad it.

[Anonymous]

I ran mine with normal castrol GTX for the first 20min cam break in, then changed the oil+filter, castrol GTX again, and ran it 500 for engine break in. Then I changed oil+filter to Mobil 1 and Pure 1 filter, and change that every 3,000.

This motor better last fucking forever.

[pocket-rocket]

This motor better last fucking forever.

Lol, too bad with most of us performace oriented guys it won't, lol.

[Anonymous]

This motor better last fucking forever.

Lol, too bad with most of us performace oriented guys it won't, lol.

Yah and I only have 1 year left on my warrenty, and I don't think I can innocently blow it by then, so I've decided to be nice to it...But with this new intake it will be running 13s, and I hope that it doesn't get angry at me for doing that.

I already am looking at oiling system parts so I can still oil the motor at 7600+rpm, and I am figuring otu the valve spring strengh I'll need. With this intake, the motor will rev past 7,000 so much better. I'm hoping for max power at 7. Even tho the cams are still small and such, the UIM is mainly what limits it and causes it to drop off after 6 so bad(on a stock mtoor, mine runs to 7 fine now) When I was stock, it took a while to get 4th to even hit 7k.

[pocket-rocket]

When I was stock, it took a while to get 4th to even hit 7k.

I bet that had alot to do with stock power, mileage affecting basically everything that needs to be sealing (like rings and valves), and aerodynamic drag.

[Anonymous]

It had little to do with that As far as power goes, the car had the power to go 130+(redline 4th), in fact if I went to 5th it'd keep pulling.

The problem was that with the stock motor, and powerband, the engine is at a very flat spot above 6-6.5rpm. Really you could only hit 7 in the first 3 gears. Ben's chip helped this tremendously, as did the CAI. With those two, the motor's power band stretches a lot. That is why Ben's chip I doubt makes more than 5hp max, it just makes a lot more over 5.5k. Now 4th will pull to 7 without a problem. Contrary to belief, the reason our cars die off after 6-6.5k is becuz of the UIM, nto the cams. The stock cams will hold power, and not drop off, all the way to 7.5k if the UIM is good enough. Proof of this is with the otherwise stock 3.4, with a box for a UIM. It made some some 240 FWHP, but also held a pretty much flat power range to 7.5. He also had stiffer springs btw.

[pocket-rocket]

The 91 pulled to 7k with 155k miles on it with stock cams...

[Anonymous]

Was that with or without a chip?

Becuz I know without, you could feel the car drop power after 6, and after 6.5, it was done. It'd still rev to 7 and such, but I think it would be faster to shift at 6500. After the chip this is a whole different story tho.

[pocket-rocket]

That would have been w/ a tuned chip to help things out Sorry for the delay in reply, I got Final Fantasy XI w/ the PS2 hdd and have been glued to my PS2 for 3 weeks now, lol.

[pbui3057]

Does Ben's chip help that much with an auto tranny? Also will revving that high in an auto make the trans explode? I understand that the 4t60e is a weak transmission and deosn't like to rev very high. It would be fun to have pull all the way up to 7000~7200 rpms but I don't want the transmission to self destruct after getting on it a couple of times. Thanks!